Oil filter cap leaking
02-18-18, 01:41 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Oil filter cap leaking
hello all,
changed oil on our 2010 rx350. About 110,000 miles on it. The last time was changed was about a year ago by the dealership. So when I changed it, I noticed that the old large rubber O-ring on the filter cap Was tighter fitting and harder to remove them putting on the new one. I double check part numbers 04152-yzza1. When I screw on the cap it goes in easy, stops when it bottoms out. It doesn't turn any further. Put a torque wrench to it and it's already at 20ft lbs without trying to go tighter. However it's leaking where the cap Meets with the vehicle. I unscrewed the cap a little ways (while oil was dripping ) to check the O ring again and it looks like it's in good position and doesn't look pinched. I did not remove the The entire way since I didn't want to lose the new oil or at least most of it. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue before. i'm wondering if it's a bad O-ring from the box or if there something else wrong because it screwed in easy all the way up to it bottoming out.
Thank you for any info anyone can give
changed oil on our 2010 rx350. About 110,000 miles on it. The last time was changed was about a year ago by the dealership. So when I changed it, I noticed that the old large rubber O-ring on the filter cap Was tighter fitting and harder to remove them putting on the new one. I double check part numbers 04152-yzza1. When I screw on the cap it goes in easy, stops when it bottoms out. It doesn't turn any further. Put a torque wrench to it and it's already at 20ft lbs without trying to go tighter. However it's leaking where the cap Meets with the vehicle. I unscrewed the cap a little ways (while oil was dripping ) to check the O ring again and it looks like it's in good position and doesn't look pinched. I did not remove the The entire way since I didn't want to lose the new oil or at least most of it. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue before. i'm wondering if it's a bad O-ring from the box or if there something else wrong because it screwed in easy all the way up to it bottoming out.
Thank you for any info anyone can give
02-18-18, 02:07 PM
#2
Moderator
One of the things to check is that seat of the Oring is nice and clean and the old O ring gas been removed. If the leak is like a drip in few hours, you may like to live with it till you reach next replacement time/milage. The other thing to keep in mind is to prelube the Oring. If they are dry they may crease over instead of evenly being squeezed.
FYI the oil filter is not at the bottom of the oil loop. If you have to take it off, you will loose some oil but it but not all.
Salim
FYI the oil filter is not at the bottom of the oil loop. If you have to take it off, you will loose some oil but it but not all.
Salim
02-18-18, 06:04 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
One of the things to check is that seat of the Oring is nice and clean and the old O ring gas been removed. If the leak is like a drip in few hours, you may like to live with it till you reach next replacement time/milage. The other thing to keep in mind is to prelube the Oring. If they are dry they may crease over instead of evenly being squeezed.
FYI the oil filter is not at the bottom of the oil loop. If you have to take it off, you will loose some oil but it but not all.
Salim
FYI the oil filter is not at the bottom of the oil loop. If you have to take it off, you will loose some oil but it but not all.
Salim
02-19-18, 06:21 AM
#4
Moderator
The caps do sometimes get cracks (usually from being tightened too much) and need to be replaced. You can find replacements on eBay or Amazon easy enough.
02-19-18, 07:07 AM
#5
Lead Lap
If you decide to buy a replacement filter cap, do yourself a favor and buy an aluminum cap rather than a black plastic one. The aluminum caps are beefier and stronger than the plastic ones. Our 2015 has the aluminum cap from the factory, hope yours does too. Many Toyota off-roaders (myself included) replace those black plastic caps at the first opportunity. Lots of the aluminum caps available on eBay for $22-26. There are even custom-made machined (not cast) aluminum caps available out there, but not likely on eBay or Amazon.
Last edited by RickC5; 02-19-18 at 07:15 AM.
02-19-18, 03:04 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Took off the cap and filter, oring looked fine. Took off the oring to finger it, and no flat spots or signs of impingement. The cap is OEM aluminum. It looks to be undamaged (although didn't run it through a flux process looking for cracks)
I just don't know how much resistance you're supposed to feel when screwing the cap back on...there's only a little resistance until it buttons out. I suppose the cheap test is to get a new oring, and if still leaks, get a new cap.
Btw I estimate about an eight of a quart is lost removing the cap.
Thanks for the advice! Very odd no leaks until I change the dang oil along with the oil cooler lines...at least the latter is holding well.
I just don't know how much resistance you're supposed to feel when screwing the cap back on...there's only a little resistance until it buttons out. I suppose the cheap test is to get a new oring, and if still leaks, get a new cap.
Btw I estimate about an eight of a quart is lost removing the cap.
Thanks for the advice! Very odd no leaks until I change the dang oil along with the oil cooler lines...at least the latter is holding well.
02-19-18, 03:50 PM
#7
Moderator
Why not use a Torque wrench?
Salim
Salim
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02-19-18, 08:22 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
The torque wrench doesn't really engage until the cap bottoms out then it's done turning, hits 18 ft lbs at that bottomed out position. I even set it to 25 ft lbs and it doesn't move at all. Will have to try the oring replacement. It's like the oring that came with this filter was too skinny.
03-25-19, 06:04 AM
#9
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What was the solution to this issue? Did it end up being an improperly sized o-ring? I changed the oil on mine this last weekend and am experiencing exactly the same issues as you did. The cap bottoms out in the same manner, etc. i am planning on replacing the o-ring tonight to see if it makes any difference but I am very interested to hear if this was in fact the root cause for you?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
03-25-19, 05:27 PM
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Yup, I bought genuine Toyota filters, unless they are fake in OEM packaging... set of 5 OEM Lexus/Toyota 04152-Yzza1 oil filters + gaskets from Daytona Toyota via Amazon... it came in what appears to be genuine packaging and no obvious reason to question the items. The seller ratings (I know these can be manipulated) at Amazon is 99% and appears legit.
I’ll try the seal from one of the other filters and see if there is a difference. If not, I guess I will have to go the physical dealer and buy one there to compare. Only real way to know I guess.
I’ll try the seal from one of the other filters and see if there is a difference. If not, I guess I will have to go the physical dealer and buy one there to compare. Only real way to know I guess.
01-21-20, 05:42 AM
#13
12-12-22, 04:27 AM
#14
My 2 cents.
I bought a 2022 RX350 over the summer. Followed the engine breaking process pretty strictly. Just changed the oil this weekend at 1600 miles (no, not driving much these days re: WFH) and will most likely be doing it at 6 month intervals. I would do 5K, but like I said I'll hit 6 months first.
I used Royal Purple 0w20. It's a bit cheaper if you buy in a 5 gal jug on Amazon. I had bought a metal oil filter cap from Toyota that I planned to switch for the plastic one. Then I watched a few YouTube videos and read a little on the subject and changed my mind (for now). I get where folks think that plastic is cheap and metal is better. But has anyone actually had a failure with a plastic one? Changing the oil is probably the #1 thing you can do to maintain an engine. The oil cap (or the metal spin on filters) is designed to by-pass the filter if the filter clogs. This relies on the proper spring tension in the cap (or spin-on) and I suppose oil pressure, etc. to work properly. Do we not trust Toyota engineers to know what they are doing? Whose to say the metal replacement is designed exactly to the correct specs (assuming a non-OEM part)?
I bought a 2022 RX350 over the summer. Followed the engine breaking process pretty strictly. Just changed the oil this weekend at 1600 miles (no, not driving much these days re: WFH) and will most likely be doing it at 6 month intervals. I would do 5K, but like I said I'll hit 6 months first.
I used Royal Purple 0w20. It's a bit cheaper if you buy in a 5 gal jug on Amazon. I had bought a metal oil filter cap from Toyota that I planned to switch for the plastic one. Then I watched a few YouTube videos and read a little on the subject and changed my mind (for now). I get where folks think that plastic is cheap and metal is better. But has anyone actually had a failure with a plastic one? Changing the oil is probably the #1 thing you can do to maintain an engine. The oil cap (or the metal spin on filters) is designed to by-pass the filter if the filter clogs. This relies on the proper spring tension in the cap (or spin-on) and I suppose oil pressure, etc. to work properly. Do we not trust Toyota engineers to know what they are doing? Whose to say the metal replacement is designed exactly to the correct specs (assuming a non-OEM part)?
12-12-22, 08:26 AM
#15
Our 2015 RX350 FWD with 83,400 miles is my wife's daily driver. We have owned it since late October 2018. Never had a problem with the OEM engine oil cap. Never had a problem with the two O-rings (one large, one small) that come with the Toyota 04152-YZZA1 oil filter cartridges that I utilize. I order the cartridges in packs of five from amazon.com. They come in genuine Toyota boxes. Works for me.