geoleo

I foolishly bought the Dorman thru Amazon. My mechanic spent 2 hours to discover it was faulty because it did not fit aaas the pipe extended beyond the flange and couldnt be tightened enough to stop leaking!! He ordered the OEM partand spent 2 hours installing it . BEWARE of Dorman crap.

Felix

I've been using the Dorman oil cooler lines for a few yrs w/ no issues....I also replaced the spiced bank one vvti oil line as well.....

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

2010 RX450h

Can someone point me to the right tool for getting that pesky nut out on the driver side flange closest to the oil pan? I got stuck and had to postpone the job for now.

I read the original post, but can’t see how I can get it out with a regular 12mm deep socket. Found someone on YouTube saying they used a medium sized 12mm swivel socket.

Mesquite77

You're likely going to need to remove the stud too, since the steel pipes don't flex, so you can try just that with a torx socket on the stud, might be 8mm?

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Yes the stud is E8, but I couldn’t fit the my ratchet in that spot. I’m wondering if I was trying to reach it from the wrong angle. Is there a guide that shows how to reach the nut. The OP says something about going behind the subframe, I didn’t think that was possible.

Clutchless

You need some U-joint flex attachments to get a better angle on it. A flex socket extension may also help. I did mine a long time ago and don't recall the details but do recall using a wide assortment of sockets and extensions and wrenches to remove the nuts and studs.
There are probably a few youtube videos on replacing it. This same oil line is also on the Highlander.
Here is a link to a how to thread on the Highlander. There are a few differences on access due to body differences and underneath cladding differences. Also this guy removed a lot more stuff than was needed to get at it.
There are comments in the thread from folks who approached it the way most of us did it, without removing as much other stuff.
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...points.487665/

Mesquite77

BTW, with a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan, you can safely move the engine up about an inch or so without loosening the engine mounts, which may help. I changed mine and removed both oil pans with engine still in the car, so is doable, was a while back though...

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Ordered a few 1/4” 12mm sockets of various length and ball end extensions. I’ll give it another shot to see if it’s possible.

Clutchless

You do need the Torx sockets to remove some of those studs. You can ignore the nuts and just unscrew the stud itself.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Getting a few more tools did the trick. The winning combination was a 12mm deep socket 1/4” drive with a 2” long wobble extension 1/4” drive and a 1/4” flex head ratchet. The wobble extension was key, otherwise you can’t fit in there.

Below is a picture of all the tools I needed for the job.

1. 1/4” flex head ratchet
2. 10mm shallow socket 1/4” drive
3. 10mm flex head ratcheting gearwrench
4. 2” long wobble extension 1/4” drive
5. 12mm deep socket 1/4” drive
6. E8 socket 1/4” drive.

mountyone

RE: Oiler Cooler Line Rupture
Have 2011 RX 350:

Rubber line ruptured @ 85000 miles
Since the issue is the Rubber line.
Question: I bought the RX a month after the upgrade letter was sent to owners in 2014.
The previous owner got the upgrade letter.
Should the Lexus Dealer have advised me of the upgrade issue at the time of sale?

Update:
Under a L/Certified sale, I learned that a vehicle cannot be under an SSC.
So, an appeal was made to Lexus as my purchase was in 2014 as L/Certified before the Oil Cooler Line SSC expired in 2016
I noticed that vehicles owned were listed, here's mine. I've been driving Toyota a long time.
2011 Lexus RX350
2009 Toyota Camry
Sold:
'99 Camy
'90 Camry
2000 Tercel
!980 Corona SW
1970 Cressida
1965 Corolla

Clutchless

I am unclear on your timeline.
Just because the prior owner got the letter that does not indicate when you became aware of the rubber line issue and extended coverage from Lexus.
It was not an upgrade but an extended warranty of sorts if the rubber line leaked. Have you read the actual letter?

You also kind of appear to indicate you bought it used from a Lexus dealer and wonder if there is some liability on their part for not telling you about the cooler line issue when you bought it.

Was it Lexus Certified? When did you buy it? How many miles were on it? How much later did the lines fail? Did you have permanent engine damage requiring replacement?
Have you contacted the dealer since this happened? If so, what did they say?

mountyone

Here are the details of the purchase and the timeline.

Purchased: 09/05/2014
Mileage:45600
Certified: Yes
Lexus Letter informing of the Upgrade was not made available to me. It was requested, but not sent.
Warranty service: 08/18/2015 An oil change was done at no charge. The Dealer initiated this service visit. Being the extended service program
ended 12/2016, this service was requested to check the Oil Cooler Lines, IMHO. In my opinion, the Upgrade should have been made known
at this visit. Without a doubt there were many replacements made under the Upgrade program by the dealer by 08/2015.

But, I was not informed of the potential problem and learned the hard way when the oil cooler line burst underway. Fortunately, it was not
on a road trip, but a commute.
Mileage at burst: 88052
Date: 06/03/2022

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

You mentioned the line burst. What’s the condition of the engine? Was the leak spotted before the engine ran out of oil/spun a bearing?

I don’t understand what you’re trying to accomplish. Did you have to get a replacement engine and are requesting compensation?

mountyone

Response: Engine spared, leak discovered nearby home.
Tilt bed used to send to mechanic shop.
Goal: Be reimbursed for expenses incurred in repair and towing.
I learned of the Upgrade after the fact, the Dealer knew of the Upgrade at tie of sale.
Does a Certified sale get more significence?