No, you are correct on the tracer, that was my mistake.

The other windows can't be controlled from the driver side switch and they don't light up either (LED on the switches).

I don't think the master switch is bad, I have a hard time believing the switch I received from ebay is also bad.

Yeah, I think I've done all I can, not sure I want to buy a scanner to read codes.

 

Not just any scanner, but Techstream in order to scan all the modules in the car. Most low-cost scanners only do engine code and maybe antilock code. Techstream is a subscription software and depending on the level of expertise you need. You also need a mvci cable and a laptop to run Techstream.

 

I will not be going down that path.

 

How did this problem come about? Did the owner try to jump another car? Did the battery go dead?

One last attempt is to remove the battery connections and wait for about 5 minutes. Reconnect the battery and see if the problems go away.

 

I'm curious as well.
Did he had a windshield replace?
Sometimes they dont seal it right and have water drip down by the kick panel and have connectors there corrode over time.
Just a thought.

 

That was my question. The window was not replaced, no battery jump, no battery disconnect. They said they went to a car wash and noticed the passenger side mirror wasn't snapped in the 'normal' position, but was a little angled and maybe water got into the passenger side mirror, but they don't know if the window control was working prior to the car wash. Of course most will all assume that's the problem, but I can't assume that since the owner wasn't sure of when exactly the driver side controls stopped working.

I wanted to ask if anyone knew which wire(s) control the window lock and/or mirror collapse/adjust, I think it would help to know if those wire are getting proper voltage.

I find it very odd that two master door switches are bad. Talk about having bad luck....existing master switch fails and a used part also having the same exact failure. This is why I think the problem isn't the master switch, but anything is possible, I suppose it is possible that the ebay part is also bad, I just find it hard to believe.

edit- I will recommend the battery disconnect.

 

 

I'll have to check.

 

New info...I disconnected the battery and put everything back, other than resetting the clock, nothing changed, still not working.

However, I held down the unlock button and the following windows automatically rolled down...front passenger, rear passenger, rear driver, sunroof. The front driver window did not roll down. Then I rolled them back up by inserting the key in the driver side door and holding it in the counter-clockwise position.

Oddly, I can only open the driver front window from the master control, as we all know.

I'm not sure if this information is helpful. I'm not sure if the driver window should have rolled down with the rest.

Thanks.

 

Did you do a reset of the other windows? Holding the remote unlock button will lower the windows and move the sunroof back just like it was designed to do. Turning the key and holding the key is supposed to roll the windows back up. If you did the reset and nothing changed, then it is time to find an independent or take it to Lexus.

 

I realize the unlock will roll down the windows, but the driver window did NOT roll down the the rest of the windows. I was giving that info in hopes that it is an indicator of another issue/obvious cause of the problem.

Yes, the next step is a dealer to diagnose and get a quote to repair, but I wanted to ask about the driver window. As stated, my assumption is that it should roll down with the rest of the windows when holding the unlock button.

I'm not sure what you mean by reset, if you are talking about trying to pair the windows with the master switch, yes, I've tried that multiple times with no luck. I've also tried different variations of the reset.

 

^^^
This helps.
That just means your communication line to the Body ECU is working.
All communication line junctions in between the MASTER switch and the Body ECU.
This junction splits to each individual door window motor.
You'll have to trace down that PURPLE wire on from your MASTER window switch to the body ECU (junction block) if there are any breaks in it.
That wire goes thru the door harness where it pivots and has a junction connector by the left lower kick panel on the driver side.
You need an ohm/multimeter for continuity checks.

Note: This PURPLE communication wire also has a splce point in the driv door harness.
One going to the Driv window motor and one going to the MASTER switch (the one you have been checking)

I'm still not ruling out a bad MASTER switch but hey, OHM checks are free. lol
But even w/ a bad Master, it still should open the driv window with the key holding it unlock like the rest of your windows.
Because the comm line goes straight to the window motor.

 

Yup, broken wire. Owner took it to the dealer to get it looked at/quote for the repair. He didn't realize he had an active warranty for another 1k miles. Dealer had the car for a handful of days and found the broken wire and replaced it under warranty.

 

Just to add my experience on 2010 Rx450h, owned 4 years, 280000 km driven.

I was told our other RX did not anymore unlock immediately the doors when you pushed the unlock button in the fob.
I though there might be a problem in the 12V battery. Onboard vehicle signal menu showed while acc on 10,3 Volts!!!

(But it still had original Panasonic battery, our other Rx 2010 got dead original 12v battery 5 years ago)

I replaced the battery same day. But the driver door switch went dead.
Mirrors not working, door lock buttons not working, windows not working apart the driver window. Windows did work from own door switches. Door central locking worked from the passenger door switch.

Then I did search and found the threads about the topic here. I did not have time to do anything at the moment. I planned anyway to see myself whether wiring could be faulty.
Rx was in use for few days, not my daily driver. About in a week I got time to measure the wires, and I was about to open the door panel.
I had tools ready for it but ... the switch was working like nothing had ever happened!!
A month has passed now, and everything is fluent. The original unlock hesitation is gone too.
There must be some reconfiguration in the window, mirror Ecu that took some time to reinitialize, my best guess.

 

Update of the problem. Problem appear again after one year. And after heavy rain.
Dealer had replaced windshield 3 years ago. We usually do not store car outside so it took long time to reappear.
I think during driving the wind flow stops the water to enter under the seal.

When pouring water with garden canister on top right corner of windshield after few moment water start to flow at the right corner of the dash and on to the block of electric connectors.
The water gathered under passenger foot well.
To fix the leak, I resealed all top seal with butyl based windshield seal solvent. I hammered flat the solvent nozzle to fit under the original surrounding seal. Now problem is gone.




Leaking water at the right end of dashboard

The window switch unit powering on and off during driving