Rx 350 2010 , engine swap advice urgent
03-10-19, 06:09 PM
#16
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Please invest in new rear main seal and transmission seal.
Beating a dead horse here:
Best way to warm up the engine is to put it under load and not push up the rpms ... I suggest not fo do more than 3Krpm till the engine reaches optimum operation temperature.
Salim
Beating a dead horse here:
Best way to warm up the engine is to put it under load and not push up the rpms ... I suggest not fo do more than 3Krpm till the engine reaches optimum operation temperature.
Salim
03-10-19, 07:00 PM
#17
to be honest,
I did it to make the engine warmer quickly.......
Actually I remember it was above 7000 within first 10 seconds of starting......
first time I know this fact.....that I should not rev up the engine to higher RPM at beginning...
Is this thump rule for all engine? Or for lexus/ Toyota engines???
I did it to make the engine warmer quickly.......
Actually I remember it was above 7000 within first 10 seconds of starting......
first time I know this fact.....that I should not rev up the engine to higher RPM at beginning...
Is this thump rule for all engine? Or for lexus/ Toyota engines???
As an aside, synthetic oil is far superior to non-synthetic.
03-11-19, 05:25 AM
#18
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Engine removed
Never do that to any engine!!! Cold oil is very hard to pump - especially into the very tight clearances between the crankshaft and bearings. Plus the oil filter will go into bypass and will not be filtering the oil!!
As an aside, synthetic oil is far superior to non-synthetic.
As an aside, synthetic oil is far superior to non-synthetic.
We purchased rear engine mount , crankshaft oil seal rear and front ..........
We are not going to put the engine straight forward...since this is used engine , mechanic wants open some area of the engine and check the rods before he put this in my car.....
Is it good idea?
thanks
Surgery on going.....
03-11-19, 11:19 AM
#19
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Sure, it won't hurt anything and it will give you a better idea about the condition of this used engine. You will need an oil pan gasket as I presume he is going to drop it to inspect the rods (rod bearings?)
Also anytime you start a vehicle it is a good idea to allow around 30 - 40 seconds for the oil pressure to build up before placing it into drive or reverse. Then drive slowly and accelerate slowly until after the temperature gauge reaches normal reading. This way you warm up the transmission as well as the engine.
When you ran it up to 7000 RPM right away you had not even built up any oil pressure and your oil starved rod or main bearings probably seized up. Your piston rings may have scored the cylinder walls and been damaged.
Well now you know and I hope will treat this motor much better.
Also anytime you start a vehicle it is a good idea to allow around 30 - 40 seconds for the oil pressure to build up before placing it into drive or reverse. Then drive slowly and accelerate slowly until after the temperature gauge reaches normal reading. This way you warm up the transmission as well as the engine.
When you ran it up to 7000 RPM right away you had not even built up any oil pressure and your oil starved rod or main bearings probably seized up. Your piston rings may have scored the cylinder walls and been damaged.
Well now you know and I hope will treat this motor much better.
03-11-19, 11:22 AM
#20
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Sure, it won't hurt anything and it will give you a better idea about the condition of this used engine. You will need an oil pan gasket as I presume he is going to drop it to inspect the rods (rod bearings?)
Also anytime you start a vehicle it is a good idea to allow around 30 - 40 seconds for the oil pressure to build up before placing it into drive or reverse. Then drive slowly and accelerate slowly until after the temperature gauge reaches normal reading. This way you warm up the transmission as well as the engine.
When you ran it up to 7000 RPM right away you had not even built up any oil pressure and your oil starved rod or main bearings probably seized up. Your piston rings may have scored the cylinder walls and been damaged.
Well now you know and I hope will treat this motor much better.
Also anytime you start a vehicle it is a good idea to allow around 30 - 40 seconds for the oil pressure to build up before placing it into drive or reverse. Then drive slowly and accelerate slowly until after the temperature gauge reaches normal reading. This way you warm up the transmission as well as the engine.
When you ran it up to 7000 RPM right away you had not even built up any oil pressure and your oil starved rod or main bearings probably seized up. Your piston rings may have scored the cylinder walls and been damaged.
Well now you know and I hope will treat this motor much better.
this forum is very useful....very valuable advises from all of you...
03-12-19, 12:47 PM
#21
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Wha
I have a feeling that the oil in the old engine was thicker than 0W20. That region is typically hot in the summer and people usually recommend using heavier weight lubes. Since it's still winter in Doha, I wonder if that contributed to the failure.
It would be nice to advise of what oil weight you had before the engine failure.
Thanks,
It would be nice to advise of what oil weight you had before the engine failure.
Thanks,
wS4
03-15-19, 07:07 AM
#22
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Need again your advise guys
New engine fitted and I am running the car now, I am unabme to upload video here.
my acceleration is 9 seconds 0-60
Before I used to get 6 second or 7 seconds.
What can I do? Any tuning or this engine is bad?
my acceleration is 9 seconds 0-60
Before I used to get 6 second or 7 seconds.
What can I do? Any tuning or this engine is bad?
03-15-19, 07:25 AM
#23
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The software may just need to go through a learning curve with the new engine. It may improve in a week or 2 once it adapts.
Also in the US the 2010 RX350 used Premium gas which gave it a few more horsepower. The 2013 Avalon ran on Regular gas and had a few less horsepower. Not sure if the models sold in your country were the same.
Plus every engine is a bit different.
Also in the US the 2010 RX350 used Premium gas which gave it a few more horsepower. The 2013 Avalon ran on Regular gas and had a few less horsepower. Not sure if the models sold in your country were the same.
Plus every engine is a bit different.
03-15-19, 08:31 AM
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The software may just need to go through a learning curve with the new engine. It may improve in a week or 2 once it adapts.
Also in the US the 2010 RX350 used Premium gas which gave it a few more horsepower. The 2013 Avalon ran on Regular gas and had a few less horsepower. Not sure if the models sold in your country were the same.
Plus every engine is a bit different.
Also in the US the 2010 RX350 used Premium gas which gave it a few more horsepower. The 2013 Avalon ran on Regular gas and had a few less horsepower. Not sure if the models sold in your country were the same.
Plus every engine is a bit different.
I use premium petrol higher octane.octane....
can i manually adjust the software?
03-15-19, 11:28 AM
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Pro acceleration Device and timing checked
0-90 is actually 0-100 ,10km/h offset
There was a mistake in our previous test ....
There 10km/h offset in our GPS kit.
Actually 90km/h in GPS is 100km/h in Car dashboard.
transmission was shifting in 4000,5000rpm,6000rpm during this brutal acceleration, Mechanic was driving himself , he told me that it is ok ,
I HAVE GOT 7.04 SECONDS ,
HOPES THIS IS FINE
WAITING FOR YOUR ALL VALUABLE FEEDBACKS
Last edited by Athaml88; 03-15-19 at 11:40 AM.
03-15-19, 11:35 AM
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Yes oil seal was replaced.....
03-15-19, 12:52 PM
#27
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Sounds fine to me. What I meant was that the car has learning software that adjusts to your driving habits over a period of time. This applies to the transmission and engine.
I did a little research and the 2013 Toyota Avalon was rated at 268 horsepower on regular gas.
The 2010 RX 350 was rated at 275 on Premium gas. It is the additional octane that explains the difference as the engine knock sensors will automatically adjust the engine timing etc.
I trust your mechanic used your old intake manifold and throttle body on the new engine.
I did a little research and the 2013 Toyota Avalon was rated at 268 horsepower on regular gas.
The 2010 RX 350 was rated at 275 on Premium gas. It is the additional octane that explains the difference as the engine knock sensors will automatically adjust the engine timing etc.
I trust your mechanic used your old intake manifold and throttle body on the new engine.
03-16-19, 04:35 AM
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Sounds fine to me. What I meant was that the car has learning software that adjusts to your driving habits over a period of time. This applies to the transmission and engine.
I did a little research and the 2013 Toyota Avalon was rated at 268 horsepower on regular gas.
The 2010 RX 350 was rated at 275 on Premium gas. It is the additional octane that explains the difference as the engine knock sensors will automatically adjust the engine timing etc.
I trust your mechanic used your old intake manifold and throttle body on the new engine.
I did a little research and the 2013 Toyota Avalon was rated at 268 horsepower on regular gas.
The 2010 RX 350 was rated at 275 on Premium gas. It is the additional octane that explains the difference as the engine knock sensors will automatically adjust the engine timing etc.
I trust your mechanic used your old intake manifold and throttle body on the new engine.
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03-16-19, 05:58 PM
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