Oil Build Up on both steering boots and oil cooler 2014 RX350
06-19-19, 06:20 PM
#17
Moderator
A loose CV clamp is rare, but that is what recently happened to the 2003 Honda Civic owned by a friend's son. It was hardly leaking but was caught during the Maryland state safety inspection that is required when registering a car.
06-19-19, 07:13 PM
#18
Rookie
Thread Starter
Once again thanks for all the replies, guys!
The car is 5 yrs old and almost 69k miles. Technically it’s still under the powertrain warranty, not sure if I should bring it to Lexus for them to check it out, I don’t know if the problem I’m having falls under the warranty, if it’s not I have to pay them $160 diagnostic fee. I definitely won’t fix this at the dealership if it’s not covered. Ahhhhhh
The car is 5 yrs old and almost 69k miles. Technically it’s still under the powertrain warranty, not sure if I should bring it to Lexus for them to check it out, I don’t know if the problem I’m having falls under the warranty, if it’s not I have to pay them $160 diagnostic fee. I definitely won’t fix this at the dealership if it’s not covered. Ahhhhhh
06-19-19, 07:22 PM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
Once again thanks for all the replies, guys!
The car is 5 yrs old and almost 69k miles. Technically it’s still under the powertrain warranty, not sure if I should bring it to Lexus for them to check it out, I don’t know if the problem I’m having falls under the warranty, if it’s not I have to pay them $160 diagnostic fee. I definitely won’t fix this at the dealership if it’s not covered. Ahhhhhh
The car is 5 yrs old and almost 69k miles. Technically it’s still under the powertrain warranty, not sure if I should bring it to Lexus for them to check it out, I don’t know if the problem I’m having falls under the warranty, if it’s not I have to pay them $160 diagnostic fee. I definitely won’t fix this at the dealership if it’s not covered. Ahhhhhh
Thats considered powertrain so yes, it will be covered if its leaking through the axle boot clamps.
I would take personal pics of the boot first.
You dont know if they check it and find a "tear" that wasnt there before and wont be covered under warranty.
06-19-19, 11:43 PM
#20
Rookie
Thread Starter
Update:
So after jacking up the car and took a bunch of pictures, some of them I shared here, I cleaned up all the places that had oil/grease build up. Then my wife took the car and drove over 150 miles, as soon as she got home I checked those places again and found they were just as clean as this morning after I cleaned them. I’m going to give those places another good wipe down and continue to monitor them for a few weeks until my next oil change. I know there is a problem and it can’t be ignored but after 150 miles of both freeway and stop/go LA traffic the affected places are still as clean as when I cleaned them I think I can be less paranoid now 😆.
So after jacking up the car and took a bunch of pictures, some of them I shared here, I cleaned up all the places that had oil/grease build up. Then my wife took the car and drove over 150 miles, as soon as she got home I checked those places again and found they were just as clean as this morning after I cleaned them. I’m going to give those places another good wipe down and continue to monitor them for a few weeks until my next oil change. I know there is a problem and it can’t be ignored but after 150 miles of both freeway and stop/go LA traffic the affected places are still as clean as when I cleaned them I think I can be less paranoid now 😆.
06-20-19, 04:48 AM
#21
Update:
So after jacking up the car and took a bunch of pictures, some of them I shared here, I cleaned up all the places that had oil/grease build up. Then my wife took the car and drove over 150 miles, as soon as she got home I checked those places again and found they were just as clean as this morning after I cleaned them. I’m going to give those places another good wipe down and continue to monitor them for a few weeks until my next oil change. I know there is a problem and it can’t be ignored but after 150 miles of both freeway and stop/go LA traffic the affected places are still as clean as when I cleaned them I think I can be less paranoid now 😆.
So after jacking up the car and took a bunch of pictures, some of them I shared here, I cleaned up all the places that had oil/grease build up. Then my wife took the car and drove over 150 miles, as soon as she got home I checked those places again and found they were just as clean as this morning after I cleaned them. I’m going to give those places another good wipe down and continue to monitor them for a few weeks until my next oil change. I know there is a problem and it can’t be ignored but after 150 miles of both freeway and stop/go LA traffic the affected places are still as clean as when I cleaned them I think I can be less paranoid now 😆.
You may want to have it looked at anyway, as the tear may have caused all of the axle grease to 'sling' out of the boot. This would cause your drive axle to be 'dry' and create high amounts of heat/friction that would normally be lubricated by the grease.
Additionally, a boot replacement (if not warrantied) is far less expensive then an OEM drive axle.
06-20-19, 08:26 AM
#22
Moderator
Examination can be tactile too. Just estimate the valley of the boot and spin the wheel gently and poke around 10-2 OClock position (assuming the wheel is hanging low).
Easy test.
Salim
Easy test.
Salim
06-20-19, 09:39 AM
#23
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks guys!
I think the best thing to do is to bring it to the mechanic this weekend and have it looked.
I have another question, with the amount that I showed in the pictures if it was engine oil I would most likely see droplets on my driveway right?
I think the best thing to do is to bring it to the mechanic this weekend and have it looked.
I have another question, with the amount that I showed in the pictures if it was engine oil I would most likely see droplets on my driveway right?
06-20-19, 12:54 PM
#24
Moderator
Yes you would, but it is not engine oil. It is too thick to be engine oil. It is most likely grease from a CV axle or steering boot. I agree with above that if one is now very low on grease as it was all ejected and wiped up by you, then there will be little left inside the axle or steering boot to create more of a mess. Finally, this was probably happening over a very long period of time, so little may appear after only a few hundred miles.
06-21-19, 08:13 AM
#25
Engine oil would not be built up like that. I would drip off and just leave a colored residue.
06-23-19, 12:18 AM
#26
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
So I brought the car to the shop today and after about 2 minutes of checking the mechanic told me that the problem was my axels. The boots still look good, the clamps look good as well but they’re are not 100% tight hence the leaking and slinging grease when driving. They don’t replace the boots nor tightening the clamps, they only replace the entire axels. Cost for both new axels and labor is $400. What funny was the mechanic told me that it’s not bad and I don’t need to replace them now, I can still drive the car normally for a long time, just drive the car until I hear noises from the axels. This is my wife’s daily car, I’m not going to let it break down before I fix it so I will have both axels replaced next month when I do my oil change.
So I brought the car to the shop today and after about 2 minutes of checking the mechanic told me that the problem was my axels. The boots still look good, the clamps look good as well but they’re are not 100% tight hence the leaking and slinging grease when driving. They don’t replace the boots nor tightening the clamps, they only replace the entire axels. Cost for both new axels and labor is $400. What funny was the mechanic told me that it’s not bad and I don’t need to replace them now, I can still drive the car normally for a long time, just drive the car until I hear noises from the axels. This is my wife’s daily car, I’m not going to let it break down before I fix it so I will have both axels replaced next month when I do my oil change.
06-23-19, 05:24 AM
#27
Hi guys,
So I brought the car to the shop today and after about 2 minutes of checking the mechanic told me that the problem was my axels. The boots still look good, the clamps look good as well but they’re are not 100% tight hence the leaking and slinging grease when driving. They don’t replace the boots nor tightening the clamps, they only replace the entire axels. Cost for both new axels and labor is $400. What funny was the mechanic told me that it’s not bad and I don’t need to replace them now, I can still drive the car normally for a long time, just drive the car until I hear noises from the axels. This is my wife’s daily car, I’m not going to let it break down before I fix it so I will have both axels replaced next month when I do my oil change.
So I brought the car to the shop today and after about 2 minutes of checking the mechanic told me that the problem was my axels. The boots still look good, the clamps look good as well but they’re are not 100% tight hence the leaking and slinging grease when driving. They don’t replace the boots nor tightening the clamps, they only replace the entire axels. Cost for both new axels and labor is $400. What funny was the mechanic told me that it’s not bad and I don’t need to replace them now, I can still drive the car normally for a long time, just drive the car until I hear noises from the axels. This is my wife’s daily car, I’m not going to let it break down before I fix it so I will have both axels replaced next month when I do my oil change.
Curious what axles your mechanic is recommending @ $400 for axles and labor?
OEM appears to be nearly $1500 (ouch!) for both axles without labor...so curious if there's any insight!
06-23-19, 12:16 PM
#28
Moderator
They should be able to replace the axle boot clamps.
For that extremely low price you are probably getting aftermarket rebuilt axles. Sometimes they last and sometimes they don't. Sometimes they are defective when new due to sloppy rebuild and reuse of defective parts.
Ask what kind of warranty they have and what kind of warranty he offers for his work.
For that extremely low price you are probably getting aftermarket rebuilt axles. Sometimes they last and sometimes they don't. Sometimes they are defective when new due to sloppy rebuild and reuse of defective parts.
Ask what kind of warranty they have and what kind of warranty he offers for his work.
06-23-19, 02:33 PM
#29
Rookie
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
i will definitely ask for the brand of axles this shop uses. I do live in the city and there are a lot of auto repair shops and auto part shops around here. This is the shop that my family has been going for the last 20 years, big shop with 10 lifts. Based on last repairs on other cars in the family this shop always recommends genuine parts. I’ll definitely get back to you guys after I have the axles replaced.
i will definitely ask for the brand of axles this shop uses. I do live in the city and there are a lot of auto repair shops and auto part shops around here. This is the shop that my family has been going for the last 20 years, big shop with 10 lifts. Based on last repairs on other cars in the family this shop always recommends genuine parts. I’ll definitely get back to you guys after I have the axles replaced.
06-24-19, 12:54 AM
#30
Moderator
I replaced the boots for first gen and bought the kit from Lexus for $30~$40. The bands have a location where they fold over each other producing tension to squeeze down. Visit your lexus parts and see if they can order the clamps only for you. You can go for after market clamps as well.
I would even do a zip tie on the outer side of the clamp and make replace every 3rd year (my guess on the life of the zip ties).
Salim
I would even do a zip tie on the outer side of the clamp and make replace every 3rd year (my guess on the life of the zip ties).
Salim