Affordable Transmission Replacement?
#16
Moderator
I have driven over 40,000 miles on MAG 1 ATF and the transmission is holding up just fine. The transmission shifts like the day I got it used with 21000 miles. It may even shift faster on this fluid. MAG 1 is made by Warren Distribution https://mag1.com/about-us/
which is a major manufacturer for house branded oils and ATF. Think Wal-Mart, Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.
I did the first drain and fill at about 25000 miles and now have 72000 miles. I initially did 3 drain and fills a week apart.
I now do a drain and fill once a year or more depending on how energetic I feel. I do it when the car is cold and the new fluid the same temperature and volume as the old fluid. I measure what is drained and add a couple ounces to account for spillage.
Counting the years I have probably done 7 drain and fills at this time.
I am also running it in my HS250h hybrid and have been for about 20,000 miles and it is just fine.
which is a major manufacturer for house branded oils and ATF. Think Wal-Mart, Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.
I did the first drain and fill at about 25000 miles and now have 72000 miles. I initially did 3 drain and fills a week apart.
I now do a drain and fill once a year or more depending on how energetic I feel. I do it when the car is cold and the new fluid the same temperature and volume as the old fluid. I measure what is drained and add a couple ounces to account for spillage.
Counting the years I have probably done 7 drain and fills at this time.
I am also running it in my HS250h hybrid and have been for about 20,000 miles and it is just fine.
Last edited by Clutchless; 07-24-19 at 12:05 PM.
#17
As others have said, there is no such animal as "lifetime fluid" of ANY kind in ANY vehicle. The various friction modifier chemicals added to all ATF brands eventually break down due to heat cycles, the normal wear of the clutch packs that gradually contaminate the ATF, and the passing of time. For decades my rule of thumb with ATF has essentially been that after 40,000 miles or so, fresh ATF is always a good decision as long as the proper drain-and-fill process is followed. My wife's 2006 Jaguar XK8 Victory Edition convertible (now at just over 119,000 miles) has had three ATF drain-and-fills since we took ownership of the car in February 2012 at 36,000 miles. Like these RX350 transmissions, it is a sealed unit and the drain-and-fill process is messy and cumbersome. Jaguar service departments stuck to their "lifetime fluid" advice as printed in the owners manual but those of us who have done regular ATF drain-and-fills are now proving that our factory transmissions will outlast those of the owners who believed Jaguar's claim of "lifetime fluid" and never serviced their transmissions as a result.
#18
Pole Position
Do you also change the automatic transmission filter which usually required unbolting all the bolts holding the automatic transmission oil pan?
I have driven over 40,000 miles on MAG 1 ATF and the transmission is holding up just fine. The transmission shifts like the day I got it used with 21000 miles. It may even shift faster on this fluid. MAG 1 is made by Warren Distribution https://mag1.com/about-us/
which is a major manufacturer for house branded oils and ATF. Think Wal-Mart, Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.
I did the first drain and fill at about 25000 miles and now have 72000 miles. I initially did 3 drain and fills a week apart.
I now do a drain and fill once a year or more depending on how energetic I feel. I do it when the car is cold and the new fluid the same temperature and volume as the old fluid. I measure what is drained and add a couple ounces to account for spillage.
Counting the years I have probably done 7 drain and fills at this time.
I am also running it in my HS250h hybrid and have been for about 20,000 miles and it is just fine.
which is a major manufacturer for house branded oils and ATF. Think Wal-Mart, Advance Auto, Amazon, etc.
I did the first drain and fill at about 25000 miles and now have 72000 miles. I initially did 3 drain and fills a week apart.
I now do a drain and fill once a year or more depending on how energetic I feel. I do it when the car is cold and the new fluid the same temperature and volume as the old fluid. I measure what is drained and add a couple ounces to account for spillage.
Counting the years I have probably done 7 drain and fills at this time.
I am also running it in my HS250h hybrid and have been for about 20,000 miles and it is just fine.
#19
Moderator
No. It is not needed.
Having changed a couple of filters in other vehicles I am convinced it is a waste of time when you start changing your fluid early. They always looked fine when I inspected them.
Internal trans filters are basically screens and rarely clog up so it is not worth the effort.
To change it in the RX involves loosening a motor mount and lifting the motor a bit to get at all the pan bolts and it is a royal PITA. Not worth the effort.
Just change your fluid often and the screen will stay clean.
You see vehicles that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and when the transmission fails it is never from a clogged screen. Usually it is slippage or a failed valve body.
Here is how it is done in the mechanically similar and easier to get at the bolts Highlander https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...er-change.html
And how to change the ATF in a Highlander (same trans but getting at it is a bit different) https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...rain-fill.html
Having changed a couple of filters in other vehicles I am convinced it is a waste of time when you start changing your fluid early. They always looked fine when I inspected them.
Internal trans filters are basically screens and rarely clog up so it is not worth the effort.
To change it in the RX involves loosening a motor mount and lifting the motor a bit to get at all the pan bolts and it is a royal PITA. Not worth the effort.
Just change your fluid often and the screen will stay clean.
You see vehicles that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and when the transmission fails it is never from a clogged screen. Usually it is slippage or a failed valve body.
Here is how it is done in the mechanically similar and easier to get at the bolts Highlander https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...er-change.html
And how to change the ATF in a Highlander (same trans but getting at it is a bit different) https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...rain-fill.html
Last edited by Clutchless; 07-25-19 at 05:47 AM.
#20
Racer
iTrader: (1)
As others have said, there is no such animal as "lifetime fluid" of ANY kind in ANY vehicle. The various friction modifier chemicals added to all ATF brands eventually break down due to heat cycles, the normal wear of the clutch packs that gradually contaminate the ATF, and the passing of time. For decades my rule of thumb with ATF has essentially been that after 40,000 miles or so, fresh ATF is always a good decision as long as the proper drain-and-fill process is followed. My wife's 2006 Jaguar XK8 Victory Edition convertible (now at just over 119,000 miles) has had three ATF drain-and-fills since we took ownership of the car in February 2012 at 36,000 miles. Like these RX350 transmissions, it is a sealed unit and the drain-and-fill process is messy and cumbersome. Jaguar service departments stuck to their "lifetime fluid" advice as printed in the owners manual but those of us who have done regular ATF drain-and-fills are now proving that our factory transmissions will outlast those of the owners who believed Jaguar's claim of "lifetime fluid" and never serviced their transmissions as a result.
Just so you understand, I am not saying you are wrong, just that I have yet to see data from either Lexus or Toyota (or anybody else) that the transmissions are failing in any way.
#21
I have no charts or statistical data but I have utilized the same Jaguar forum for more than ten years now. Those of us who have done periodic ATF drain-and-fills are typically experiencing our ZF transmissions lasting for 120,000 to 130,000 miles and more without needing any form of solenoid replacement or rebuild while other folks on the same forum who have never done ATF drain-and-fills have reported transmission failures at less than 90,000 miles and in some cases less than 75,000 miles. Granted, there could be a number of factors in play here (driving style, driving terrain, overall vehicle care, etc.) but there is no question in my mind that periodic fresh fluid makes a favorable difference in these Jaguars. ZF built the transmissions in these cars and while Jaguar says "lifetime fluid", ZF Tech Support recommends ATF drain-and-fills at least every 60,000 to 70,000 miles.
#22
Intermediate
Hey guys, how about starting a thread where those that are interested would argue whether the fluid change is needed or not.
Every time I'm looking for the info how to change it, or the gasket part number, or torque specs, the good info is buried in the pages and pages of silly arguments.
I was hoping this thread would stay clean but no...
Every time I'm looking for the info how to change it, or the gasket part number, or torque specs, the good info is buried in the pages and pages of silly arguments.
I was hoping this thread would stay clean but no...
#23
Moderator
Whether to change the ATF or not has been argued over before in earlier threads. It really is a personal decision. Few own their car long enough to find out if changing the fluid will make a difference. Others are very maintenance focused and like to do more than the manufacturer calls for.
FYI did you read my post at 12 above regarding the problems VW had with lifetime fluid in their vehicles with the Aisin 6 speed automatic? A little googling will find more information.
Considering that a failed transmission costs $7,000 for a dealer installed replacement to maybe $3,000 for a used one, I will continue to change my ATF. Think of it as insurance.
The first link shows that VW changed their recommendation from never changing the Transmssion fluid in the Aisin 09G (6 speed) to telling owners to change it every 40,000 miles!
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...smission-fluid
http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar....er-than-metal/
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=855298
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...time-ATF/page5
FYI did you read my post at 12 above regarding the problems VW had with lifetime fluid in their vehicles with the Aisin 6 speed automatic? A little googling will find more information.
Considering that a failed transmission costs $7,000 for a dealer installed replacement to maybe $3,000 for a used one, I will continue to change my ATF. Think of it as insurance.
The first link shows that VW changed their recommendation from never changing the Transmssion fluid in the Aisin 09G (6 speed) to telling owners to change it every 40,000 miles!
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...smission-fluid
http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar....er-than-metal/
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=855298
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...time-ATF/page5
Last edited by Clutchless; 07-25-19 at 01:46 PM.
#25
Pole Position
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No. It is not needed.
Having changed a couple of filters in other vehicles I am convinced it is a waste of time when you start changing your fluid early. They always looked fine when I inspected them.
Internal trans filters are basically screens and rarely clog up so it is not worth the effort.
To change it in the RX involves loosening a motor mount and lifting the motor a bit to get at all the pan bolts and it is a royal PITA. Not worth the effort.
Just change your fluid often and the screen will stay clean.
You see vehicles that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and when the transmission fails it is never from a clogged screen. Usually it is slippage or a failed valve body.
Here is how it is done in the mechanically similar and easier to get at the bolts Highlander https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...er-change.html
And how to change the ATF in a Highlander (same trans but getting at it is a bit different) https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...rain-fill.html
Having changed a couple of filters in other vehicles I am convinced it is a waste of time when you start changing your fluid early. They always looked fine when I inspected them.
Internal trans filters are basically screens and rarely clog up so it is not worth the effort.
To change it in the RX involves loosening a motor mount and lifting the motor a bit to get at all the pan bolts and it is a royal PITA. Not worth the effort.
Just change your fluid often and the screen will stay clean.
You see vehicles that have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and when the transmission fails it is never from a clogged screen. Usually it is slippage or a failed valve body.
Here is how it is done in the mechanically similar and easier to get at the bolts Highlander https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...er-change.html
And how to change the ATF in a Highlander (same trans but getting at it is a bit different) https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...rain-fill.html
#26
LS1: How to change your ATF fluid has been covered in this forum. It is as easy as changing your oil, but with a few quirks. You can only drain and fill about 2 quarts at a time. Also, you do not have to use Toyota ATF which is not even synthetic. I have done about 5 drain and fills using MAG 1 Full Synthetic Low Viscosity Multi Vehicle ATF and it works better than the Toyota stuff and you can get a 6 pack at Amazon for under $40. The links below are long but will tell you how to change it properly at home.
Here is a link to the main thread on changing your ATF https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...d-threads.html
Here is a link to the main thread on changing your ATF https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...d-threads.html
#27
Driver School Candidate
Guys!
Back to the transmission issue at hand. it's "fixed now" by AAMCO.
I've attached the bill so you can see how it is.
I'm going to drive all weekend and see how it behaves. I'm already noticing something a bit different such as: If I reverse and then put it in drive.. its usually a "delay" that gives a smooth transition over to drive. So I can typically do it even though the car is still rolling backwards without any jerk. (trying not to do that of course. )
Now, its acting differently. The drive engages right away and it jerks a little if I'm not standing still! (not as smooth as it used to be)
Not sure what they can do about that.. but just the first thing I noticed.
Moreover. I thought it was "jerking" when I let the break go and have it in drive. That initial slow drive (where the car goes without me touching the gas).. I thought jerked a little when I crossed the intersection.
I need to drive it more.. it was just a 15 minute drive.
Any thoughts???
Back to the transmission issue at hand. it's "fixed now" by AAMCO.
I've attached the bill so you can see how it is.
I'm going to drive all weekend and see how it behaves. I'm already noticing something a bit different such as: If I reverse and then put it in drive.. its usually a "delay" that gives a smooth transition over to drive. So I can typically do it even though the car is still rolling backwards without any jerk. (trying not to do that of course. )
Now, its acting differently. The drive engages right away and it jerks a little if I'm not standing still! (not as smooth as it used to be)
Not sure what they can do about that.. but just the first thing I noticed.
Moreover. I thought it was "jerking" when I let the break go and have it in drive. That initial slow drive (where the car goes without me touching the gas).. I thought jerked a little when I crossed the intersection.
I need to drive it more.. it was just a 15 minute drive.
Any thoughts???
#28
Two important questions: What type of ATF was used? How many quarts of ATF were required?
Non-spec ATF and/or underfilled ATF could be causing your symptoms.
Non-spec ATF and/or underfilled ATF could be causing your symptoms.
Last edited by RX in NC; 07-27-19 at 09:51 AM.
#29
Driver School Candidate
Just went over there yesterday. And the problem it shifts hard from neutral to Drive. Moreover, when I break the car downshifts and it jerks since it goes into 2nd gear (like an engine brake)
the car repair guy that drove with me had the nerve to say "its working better now than it did!".
Ehh.. I paid you to fix it! (thats whats in my mind)
They told me to drive the car for another week.. (and somehow the issue will get resolved?)
and then call them back!
the car repair guy that drove with me had the nerve to say "its working better now than it did!".
Ehh.. I paid you to fix it! (thats whats in my mind)
They told me to drive the car for another week.. (and somehow the issue will get resolved?)
and then call them back!