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A floor jack will work just fine. Be sure to use jack stands for safety backup. I use one all the time. You can always put a thick piece of wood on top of the platform for a little more elevation. Such as 2x6 decking.
Where in VA are you? I am in the DC suburbs.
For our 2010 RX 359 AWD, the 18 in. Lift height of my floor jack works fine front and rear, without a wood block, but depends on how much extra room you like. Use jackstands as well per clutchless
I have piece of 4x4x4(cut) lumber and I have cut (dado) a slot in the middle. I have taken off 1/16~1/8 from one side of the slot to mimic the surface of the scissors jack. I use that piece to give me the additional height as well as use it on seam (recommended) jack lift points.
[Note due to the top not being level (due to 1/16" cut), the block goes one way on the floor jack.]
Salim
[Study the grain of the wood and choose the slot properly]
A floor jack will work just fine. Be sure to use jack stands for safety backup. I use one all the time. You can always put a thick piece of wood on top of the platform for a little more elevation. Such as 2x6 decking.
Where in VA are you? I am in the DC suburbs.
I'm planning on using Jack Stands. Thanks for the safety tip. I'm close to IAD.
Originally Posted by afpj
For our 2010 RX 359 AWD, the 18 in. Lift height of my floor jack works fine front and rear, without a wood block, but depends on how much extra room you like. Use jackstands as well per clutchless
Thanks. With Blackfriday around a corner I'm looking at getting a new floor jack. Now I know all the 3 ton floor jacks i have been looking at will work.
Originally Posted by salimshah
I have piece of 4x4x4(cut) lumber and I have cut (dado) a slot in the middle. I have taken off 1/16~1/8 from one side of the slot to mimic the surface of the scissors jack. I use that piece to give me the additional height as well as use it on seam (recommended) jack lift points.
[Note due to the top not being level (due to 1/16" cut), the block goes one way on the floor jack.]
Salim
[Study the grain of the wood and choose the slot properly]
Thanks. I'm hoping not to have to us additional wood block to raise the car.
I have a couple of Harbor Freight jacks that work as well as the worn out Craftsman floor jacks they replaced. There is a Harbor Freight in Sterling Park and another in Manassas. Get a 20% off coupon online.
I also have wood blocks cut from 4x4 hardwood with a slot in them for the side rails and use them on my jack stands.
I also have a low-profile Harbor Freight floor jack that has a range from about 5 inches to about 22 inches. I paid $74 for it (with the aforementioned coupon) 3 or 4 years ago. Well worth the cost - I use it on all four of our vehicles.
I have one of those low profile jacks which was helpful when I had a G35 Coupe as it was so low to the ground. My other floor jack is normal height. It is very convenient having 2 floor jacks on some projects.
i just pulled a rear tire off my 2010 RX last week. Used my HF 3 ton jack...max lift is 18in but you don't even need to get it that high to remove them. That spot where member Non describes in the pic by the rear diff is where i lifted. I placed a cut piece of 2x6 as a jack pad. Always work with a jack stand.
The Daytona is a great choice. My local garage where I go for the Virginia state annual safety inspection (I was there yesterday) has the low profile Daytona that their inspector uses to pull wheels and check brakes. It appears to have held up well in that commercial setting. It sees more use from him in a week than you would give it in a year!