kerry7

I have a 2010 RX350 AWD. The rear hatch often times won't open or close by using the driver button, FOB or rear hatch button. All it does is beep and blink. Have to resort to manual operation about half the time. I also noticed that if I try to close it first trying the button and it doesn't work (get beeps, and light flash) and then immediately try to close manually by pulling down, I get resistance and hear a grinding noise. Does anyone have or know of a good description of how the rear is designed to operate? (diagrams, pictures, wiring diagram, sensor locations, etc). I suspect a faulty sensor assuming there is one or perhaps a bad wiring connection. BTW, when it works, it works fine.; even reverses if something prevents it from closing all the way. Just wish it was more reliable.
Thanks for your assistance.
Kerry

Clutchless

Have you checked that the hatch valet lock out button in the glove box is not being hit by something as you drive around that could make it get pushed in sometimes?

kerry7

Good suggestion but no the switch is fine. I’m beginning to suspect a wiring problem. Wish I could locate some information on how it works. Otherwise I’ll either have to remove the liner and trace the wires or be prepared to cough up the $1k for the dealer to solve.

Clutchless

The hatch power motor is probably failing.

RX in NC

IF you cannot DIY the repair, do not go to the dealership. Find a good local indie shop with solid knowledge of automotive electronics. You will save considerable money by doing so.

Clutchless

Or a body shop as their hourly rates are usually much lower than mechanical repair shops.

salimshah

It is hard to diagnose remotely, but I would gather some data first.

1. Is the problem related to ambient temperature?
2. Does the hatch seem well balanced and smooth in manual operation (in similar circumstances .. temp).
3. How old/used are the struts?
4. Does the system try to move and then reverses with a beep?

The reason why I am asking all this is the motorized operation requires a perfect balance and very little force to operate. This is done to prevent injury with robotic action.

Salim

PS: I am very impressed with the wiring and connectors used by Lexus. As long as no one has messed with it, the likelyhood of wiring problem is very remote.

kerry7

Appears to be independent to of temperature. Started occurring in warm / hot weather.
System usually just beeps although there have been occurrences where with the hatch open, it closed almost all the way and then reopened. Attempting to open the hatch no movemet; it just unlocked the latch and beeped.

You might be on to something....struts.
Last winter the door was more difficult to open manually...heavy. Temperature in CA was in low 30s. I replace both struts and that restored the lift but not to what I remembered it to be; still required a bit more effort to raise and lower. But it worked fine for both powered and manual. This past summer is when the powered mode problem started to develop. Manual operation effort remains about the same. The struts I used were not Lexus certified but appeared to be same; perhaps that was my mistake. Its puzzling because yesterday in the cold rain (40 F) the power door operated fine. Today, one time yes, one time no.

Looking for Lexus certified parts I noticed they list two pinch sensors, left, right. They are kind of pricey at $450 each. I wonder if one of them is intermittent and how would I test for it? Does anyone have a diagram / picture showing the pinch sensor locations?
I was also thinking that perhaps Lexus has a motor current sensor it uses in its safety sensing in addition to the pinch sensors? Too much current draw and door stops?

I think I will first start with replacing the struts with Lexus brand. And see if that improves the balance you mention. I believe the numbers are
68960-0E160 left
68950-0E160 right

-Kerry

salimshah

Go for the easy stuff before going after sensor/wiring. I would focus on struts.

Think twice about getting the OEM struts ... too pricey for my taste. Go for reputable aftermarket and if they dont work smoothly and without effort then keep them. In your case I would even suggest local auto stores as they should accept a not perfect replacement.


Salim

kerry7

I replaced the cylinder struts (OEM Lexus dealer). They definitely make the door operate more smoothly. However the door operation continues to be faulty. sometimes it operates fine from either the console button or the FOB. And other times i have to manually lift the door. Sometimes it malfunctions after I use the power lift or drive the car. And just the opposite; have to use manual to raise and lower and then the power works. There doesn't appear to be any set pattern.
Sure wish I knew what the logic was for the door operation.
I did make one observation - perhaps related; the back up camera when putting car into reverse has also shown some erratic behavior. Screen goes blue or the screen shows a broken picture wavey lines as though the cable is unplugged. I did not try the power door at the same time since I would have to take it out of reverse to raise the door. Also taking it out of reverse and putting back into reverse usually cleared the camera problem.

Perhaps a detailed wiring diagram would provide some clue. Door and camera may be in the same wiring harness or share a connector.
-Kerry

RX in NC

Sounds like a wiring harness issue. Opening and closing the rear hatch thousands of times over the years can eventually fray or chafe those wires, especially if they are packed tight and rubbing against something during every opening and closing.

kerry7

Thanks for the suggestion. I believe the door sensor wires go up to the headliner and perhaps one of them is shorting or opening.
Any thoughts on how to test them?