RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015) Discussion topics related to the 2010 - 2015 RX350 and RX450H models

Vibration when braking

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Old 07-25-20, 01:10 PM
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Skier76
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Default Vibration when braking

2013 RX350 AWD
Aftermarket rotors and pads installed by an independent shop a few years back.

The problem is from the driver’s front: Excessive bake dust and using a laser temp sensor, hotter than the passenger side disc after driving.

I pulled the caliper earlier this week. The inboard pad is wearing more than the outside pad. I was able to push in both caliper pistons without an issue.

The slider pins were a bit sticky with the lower pin being more sticky. I cleaned both pins and lubed with caliper grease. I left off the swollen slider pin bushing as that was causing significant binding. Drove fine on the test drive after.

I took the RX out the other day and the vibration and shuddering is back under braking. Verified a hotter temp in n the driver’s side with the laser temp sensor.

Any ideas? This problem goes away in the fall/winter/spring and only comes up in the summer. I’m thinking it’s not the rotor as that would cause the issue year round.






Old 07-26-20, 12:47 AM
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Robles84
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It sounds like the pistons are not hitting evenly on the rotor. I heard that was a issue on the 2nd gen gs also
Old 07-26-20, 04:02 AM
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Clutchless
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I agree, you could have a sticky caliper piston. First try bleeding the brakes to see if that helps.
You may end up replacing that caliper.
Old 07-26-20, 05:28 AM
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iolmaster
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Originally Posted by Clutchless
I agree, you could have a sticky caliper piston. First try bleeding the brakes to see if that helps.
You may end up replacing that caliper.
I have to ask. How would bleeding the brakes have an effect on this?
Old 07-26-20, 05:33 AM
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Skier76
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Thanks all. My initial thoughts are it's either the pistons or the bracket; mainly the part of the brackets were the pins ride in. I'd hate to just start tossing parts at this. Then again, brakes are something to not take lightly.

Regarding calipers, I'd like to go OEM vs. the reman stuff you get at the chain stores. Can anyone confirm the driver's side caliper part number: 47750-48110 Also, is that just the caliper or the caliper and bracket?
Old 07-26-20, 06:37 AM
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afpj
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Get new set of pin bushings. What grease are you using for the pins? Poor quality grease/lube will not last long.
Old 07-26-20, 07:36 AM
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Clutchless
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That is just the caliper. The bracket is sold separately. You should not need a bracket.
Regarding your slide pins. Another trick is to use a 9mm gun barrel wire brush to clean out the caliper bracket holes where the slide pins insert. You can find them on eBay. Usually they sell 3 or 5 together and they don't cost much.
I have become fond of Motorcraft XG-3A Silicone Brake Caliper grease as I think it holds up better than Sil-Glyde
https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/sil...hoCYlMQAvD_BwE
Old 07-26-20, 07:49 AM
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Skier76
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I'm using CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease. Not sure what the mechanic used when they did the brakes awhile back.

That's a good trick for the wire brush. Let me see if I can locate one of those or a set. Found them on Amazon too. Reasonably priced.
Old 07-26-20, 08:21 AM
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Skier76
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Just ordered the caliper. Glad I double checked with my vin on the parts site. Correct caliper is: 47750-0E031

And I pulled the trigger (ha! Get it?) on the bore brush as well. Thanks for that tip!
Old 10-11-20, 06:32 AM
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Skier76
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Update! I'll post a few pics from my phone in a bit.

The caliper was the entire unit; caliper, mounting bracket, pins. Nice surprise. I also ordered a set of OEM Toyota pads. Make sure you get a new crush washer that goes between the caliper an the brake hose. I bought two just in case.

Overall, this job was pretty easy. I recommend having some air/power tools; it makes things go a lot quicker. I would also get a good wobble/universal impact socket. That'll help with getting the socket in place when you remove the caliper bracket. I've had my brakes done by a shop before, but the bracket bolts were tough to get off. They took a few blasts from my DeWalt 1/2 impact.

This took care of the vibration I was getting under braking. I still get a little bit under very hard braking, so I'm wondering if the passenger side will need to get replaced next.

Parts for this job were just a tick over $200 (All OEM parts). I have to imagine this would have been a lot more at a shop or the dealer
Old 10-11-20, 06:37 AM
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Caliper off

Clips from the old bracket

Installed

New pads on the other side

Completed

A few pics from the job.
Old 10-11-20, 07:23 AM
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afpj
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Curious if you took apart the old caliper to see why might have been sticking?
Old 10-11-20, 09:27 AM
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salimshah
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The reason for sticking has to be the sliding pins. They allow the calipers to move/slide to compensate for the wear as well as when brakes are let on/off. Lack of use, lack of lubrication, dust/rust and although very unlikely a bend can cause the pins to stick. Although rust can be polished off, I would suggest replacing them.

There is another reason for sticking ... not serving the brake fluid. The fluid should travel freely in either direction and if it does not flow back then there is limited motion on the pins .. which would lead to sticking.

Salim
Old 10-12-20, 05:51 AM
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Skier76
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Originally Posted by salimshah
The reason for sticking has to be the sliding pins. They allow the calipers to move/slide to compensate for the wear as well as when brakes are let on/off. Lack of use, lack of lubrication, dust/rust and although very unlikely a bend can cause the pins to stick. Although rust can be polished off, I would suggest replacing them.

There is another reason for sticking ... not serving the brake fluid. The fluid should travel freely in either direction and if it does not flow back then there is limited motion on the pins .. which would lead to sticking.

Salim
Hi Salim,
If you look to the first few posts in this thread, that was the course of action I took initially. I pulled the pins, inspected and regreased. Unfortunately, that did not solve the problem. My best guess is that the piston or pistons were binding up. It did not appear to be a collapsed hose because the problem was all but eliminated with the new caliper.
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