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StrongArm makes some of the best hood and hatch struts in the industry. I have a pair of their hood struts on my wife's 2015 RX350 (installed in October 2019 after the mediocre factory ones began to get weak). When the time comes for hatch struts, it will get a pair of StrongArms as well.
I humbly disagree on 'mediocre'. The original have lasted for much longer time on all Lexus vehicles [going back to '95] and the StrongArm had to be replaced after 5 yrs or less. StrongArm on first install provide great lift [better then the original] but overtime they become less stiff and the max life I got from them was less than 5 yrs. Every pair I installed has now been replaced or on its way to be replaced. The big advantage is the relative price. I am still ahead in savings even if I had to replace them the third time.
Disclaimer: The time span is so long and product quality can change year to year.
If I remember correctly, my StrongArm pair came with a lifetime guarantee. So even if they begin to fail after 5 years, I will not have to pay for a replacement pair.
If I remember correctly, my StrongArm pair came with a lifetime guarantee. So even if they begin to fail after 5 years, I will not have to pay for a replacement pair.
Darn ... I should have looked at the warranty. Thanks.
Thread revival...
Anyone know exactly what the "long beep" means???
2017 Highlander. It pops the latch, so it sounds like but is jamed and can not be lifted with typical manual force. Glove box button is disabled.
Sadly, it was in the shop for body damage repairs at the nose and came back dead. I haven't talked to the shop yet.
Thoughts on meaning of long beep? Will Techstream tell us more?
No morse code here ... "automated function was unsuccessful, investigate as the hatch may be open or partially closed [depending on the operation] also due to abnormal end, be careful as the hatch can open and close uncontrollably".
Start by manually lifting the hatch and sense the balance. The hatch should not fight you and should not be heavy. If you stop at 1/3, 1/2. 2/3 open, the hatch should stay in that position without any support. The struts provide the counter force to the weight while the motor only tips it in the desired direction.
No morse code here ... "automated function was unsuccessful, investigate as the hatch may be open or partially closed [depending on the operation] also due to abnormal end, be careful as the hatch can open and close uncontrollably".
Start by manually lifting the hatch and sense the balance. The hatch should not fight you and should not be heavy. If you stop at 1/3, 1/2. 2/3 open, the hatch should stay in that position without any support. The struts provide the counter force to the weight while the motor only tips it in the desired direction.
Salim
Thanks!
As stated before, it unlocks but will not open. As in glove box button means nothing. It can not be lifted manually more than 3 inches as there is heavy heavy resistance. Hopefully unbolting the arm allows it to be lifted.
It's pretty strange it was fine before the body shop now it's jammed shut. I can't imagine it's the lift struts. I'll likely tear into it this weekend. Although it would be nice to know if a simple fuse is responsible for this. The manual doesn't say jack about fuse location or function.
Any other advice is welcome. TIA
Edit: wife reports no interior lights, which I didn't notice in the day time. Any fuse labels I should be looking for that might have a relationship?
Edit2: the latch does pull down and release. The button pops the glass up. It knows the state of the glass.
It's pretty strange it was fine before the body shop now it's jammed shut. I can't imagine it's the lift struts. I'll likely tear into it this weekend. Although it would be nice to know if a simple fuse is responsible for this. The manual doesn't say jack about fuse location or function.
<snip>
Edit: wife reports no interior lights, which I didn't notice in the day time. Any fuse labels I should be looking for that might have a relationship?
Edit2: the latch does pull down and release. The button pops the glass up. It knows the state of the glass.
Wow, I'm hoping you'll get the shop involved. I work in a different service field and am often held accountable, or at least asked, about the "you touched it last" stuff.
Wow, I'm hoping you'll get the shop involved. I work in a different service field and am often held accountable, or at least asked, about the "you touched it last" stuff.
They are responding and setting up a tech to inspect it. Dome light fuse was a bust. Guessing they turned them off while at the shop, to minimize drain, so no faults there. All data and memory presets are intact so its possible there was no battery disconnect as I'm pretty sure that kills the trip odometer setting them back to zero.
I'll do a run through on the fuses tonight, weather permitting.
Speaking drain, that does bring up the question of did the battery get drained enough to need a jump.
Off topic: while fixing the nose, disconnecting the radar cruise control leads to a 400 to $500 calibration fee to restore operation. Keep that in mind should someone set out to make repairs front.
Anyone have a decoder ring for this stuff? Unlike my 2013 Lexus manual, Yoda opted out of telling us what what each is responsible for. As best I can tell everything in the car works except the lift gate/disengaging drive motor.
The 5A DOOR BACK tests good!
I tested all of the engine fuses with a fluke 175. Except those in the fuseable link buss bar. You can get a visual on orange one. Not so on the green one.
If no one has input, I'll add the Yoda to www.alldatadiy.com site to look at the schematics.
That said, I'm 50/50 if it's mechanical or electrical.
Resolved $466 later...
Investigation found the right motorized lift strut to be locked up in the hatch closed position.
Here are the steps used to fix it when your hatch is stuck shut:
Note 2017 Highlander XLE in this case.
Set the glove box button to disable.
From the inside, a panel on the hatch/rear door comes out with a soft pick and you can unplug the connector. Pop another small cover over the latch and trip the lever to open the hatch.
From here, I lifted the hatch a few inches, and shoved some gloves under the door to hold it open, then unplugged and pushed the cable through the hole in the door. Then I tried to pop the lift strut off the ball on the gate from the inside with a bit of brute force but No luck, the hatch remains closed only able to open it about 2 inches.
From the outside I used a 10mm socket/ratchet and extension to remove the top bolt. Then a pivot wrench to break the bottom bolt free (while forcing the gate open) for access as the angle is about a 45 degree shot between the body and the door and you're working in a narrow gap. To speed up the bolt removal, I slid a 10mm wobble socket in on a speed handle to remove the bolt and soon enough, the bracket was free and the rear door could be opened and propped up with a broom handle.
Unbolt the remaining bracket from the body, install the new one on top, install new bracket one on the lift gate. Raise the gate to full lift and pop the new lift motor on the top and bottom brackets. I added some synthetic grease to each socket as the oem left just a drop in each. Now feed the cable through the hole, secure the boot making a water resistant seal and plu in the connector. Install removed covers.
Remove the broom and pull gate to closed. It should lock on its own. Toggle the glove box switch and take the key fob to the back.
Upon button press, it opens and closes as it did before.
Time spent was less than 20min once I realized the lift strut was locked and not moving.
Wife got a quote for $2200 to replace both sides from an indi. What a crook!
FWIW Rockauto has the powered struts for like $140 less, but we're leaving Sunday and needed it fixed today.
And ya PN: 68910-09140 is $120 cheaper than the 68910-09120 that it needs and all because of JBL speaker option. wtf Toyota???
2010 RX 350When I try to open the rear lift gate (with the remote, button, or the button in the car) I get a long beep but nothing happens. I can manually open and close it no problem. The shocks are fine it will hold any location. The button in the side of the glove box is in the correct position. If you turn it off you still get the one long beep when you try to open or close. I have replaced the lift gate motor and it changed nothing.
I have found this. If I remove the battery cable for 30 seconds then try open it will release and then not do anything after that. But only the first time after removing the battery cable. If I remove the battery cable then manually open and close the lift gate then I just get the long beep when trying to open or close.
If I have the lift gate up and remove the battery cable and then hit the remote button it will take it to the max up and then you can tell it hits the max height and it stops. After the just a long beep.
Can anyone help? I don’t knew what to try next.
Oh yeah if I am standing in the way and hit the close button it does nothing, it knows I am in the way but when I step out of the way I just get the long beep when I hit the close button. So the sensor that recognizes something in the way is working.
Welcome to CL.
It appears that nobody on this forum can help assist with your issue and repeatedly posting the same thing over will not really help get a response. Sometimes you just have to go to the dealer.
There are older threads see below. Learn to use the search feature yourself as with these aging vehicles a lot of stuff is breaking and most has been asked about before you joined CL.
Are all the doors unlocked before you try to open the hatch? That is a requirement.
Or you may have a bad new motor. Or the dealer may have to program it to allow the motor to lift and lower the hatch.
That's all I got.
And to recommend a youtube search of Lexus rear hatch beeps but won't open. There are a few videos.
03-06-21, 08:17 AM
