Power Liftgate Intermittently Working, Long Beep
#46
Replace the Motor Brushes
The intermittent issue could be from worn out brushes inside the motor. That was my issue after I took it apart with the help of the video. I rebuild my motor with this ebay part. It fits and works on my liftgate.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25627105010...mis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25627105010...mis&media=COPY
#47
The intermittent issue could be from worn out brushes inside the motor. That was my issue after I took it apart with the help of the video. I rebuild my motor with this ebay part. It fits and works on my liftgate.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25627105010...mis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25627105010...mis&media=COPY
Any issue with bearings?
Salim
#48
One of my two brushes was cracked. That was the root cause. The other one was worn. The factory material seemed soft and could wear out overtime.
The liftgate motor assembly from my 2010 RX350. It lasted about 10 years.
The liftgate motor assembly from my 2010 RX350. It lasted about 10 years.
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salimshah (10-26-23)
#50
Resolved $466 later...
Investigation found the right motorized lift strut to be locked up in the hatch closed position.
Here are the steps used to fix it when your hatch is stuck shut:
Note 2017 Highlander XLE in this case.
Set the glove box button to disable.
From the inside, a panel on the hatch/rear door comes out with a soft pick and you can unplug the connector. Pop another small cover over the latch and trip the lever to open the hatch.
From here, I lifted the hatch a few inches, and shoved some gloves under the door to hold it open, then unplugged and pushed the cable through the hole in the door. Then I tried to pop the lift strut off the ball on the gate from the inside with a bit of brute force but No luck, the hatch remains closed only able to open it about 2 inches.
From the outside I used a 10mm socket/ratchet and extension to remove the top bolt. Then a pivot wrench to break the bottom bolt free (while forcing the gate open) for access as the angle is about a 45 degree shot between the body and the door and you're working in a narrow gap. To speed up the bolt removal, I slid a 10mm wobble socket in on a speed handle to remove the bolt and soon enough, the bracket was free and the rear door could be opened and propped up with a broom handle.
Unbolt the remaining bracket from the body, install the new one on top, install new bracket one on the lift gate. Raise the gate to full lift and pop the new lift motor on the top and bottom brackets. I added some synthetic grease to each socket as the oem left just a drop in each. Now feed the cable through the hole, secure the boot making a water resistant seal and plu in the connector. Install removed covers.
Remove the broom and pull gate to closed. It should lock on its own. Toggle the glove box switch and take the key fob to the back.
Upon button press, it opens and closes as it did before.
Time spent was less than 20min once I realized the lift strut was locked and not moving.
Wife got a quote for $2200 to replace both sides from an indi. What a crook!
FWIW Rockauto has the powered struts for like $140 less, but we're leaving Sunday and needed it fixed today.
And ya PN: 68910-09140 is $120 cheaper than the 68910-09120 that it needs and all because of JBL speaker option. wtf Toyota???
GL people...
Edit: cell phone post
Investigation found the right motorized lift strut to be locked up in the hatch closed position.
Here are the steps used to fix it when your hatch is stuck shut:
Note 2017 Highlander XLE in this case.
Set the glove box button to disable.
From the inside, a panel on the hatch/rear door comes out with a soft pick and you can unplug the connector. Pop another small cover over the latch and trip the lever to open the hatch.
From here, I lifted the hatch a few inches, and shoved some gloves under the door to hold it open, then unplugged and pushed the cable through the hole in the door. Then I tried to pop the lift strut off the ball on the gate from the inside with a bit of brute force but No luck, the hatch remains closed only able to open it about 2 inches.
From the outside I used a 10mm socket/ratchet and extension to remove the top bolt. Then a pivot wrench to break the bottom bolt free (while forcing the gate open) for access as the angle is about a 45 degree shot between the body and the door and you're working in a narrow gap. To speed up the bolt removal, I slid a 10mm wobble socket in on a speed handle to remove the bolt and soon enough, the bracket was free and the rear door could be opened and propped up with a broom handle.
Unbolt the remaining bracket from the body, install the new one on top, install new bracket one on the lift gate. Raise the gate to full lift and pop the new lift motor on the top and bottom brackets. I added some synthetic grease to each socket as the oem left just a drop in each. Now feed the cable through the hole, secure the boot making a water resistant seal and plu in the connector. Install removed covers.
Remove the broom and pull gate to closed. It should lock on its own. Toggle the glove box switch and take the key fob to the back.
Upon button press, it opens and closes as it did before.
Time spent was less than 20min once I realized the lift strut was locked and not moving.
Wife got a quote for $2200 to replace both sides from an indi. What a crook!
FWIW Rockauto has the powered struts for like $140 less, but we're leaving Sunday and needed it fixed today.
And ya PN: 68910-09140 is $120 cheaper than the 68910-09120 that it needs and all because of JBL speaker option. wtf Toyota???
GL people...
Edit: cell phone post
#51
I wouldn't know. She was in a head on collision later that year and the Highlander was totaled. Keep in mind these were powered struts, not a central motor like many of the RX....
Do you have powered strut locked in place?
#52
It’s been difficult to recreate my issue. The trunk decides not to open sometimes. I thought it was the glass sensor at first, but that gives a different double beep. Mine does a long beep like it’s mad. I ordered the struts and I’ll report if it fixes the issue.
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pfloyd (07-01-24)
#54
I replaced the two struts on the back of my 2012 and I think it helped but did not fully solve the long beep intermittent opening issue. Does anyone have a (working) eBay or Amazon link for a replacement motor, or what else should I check?
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