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Did you not read the prior posts 20-26? I do not have any photos for you. There are photos above and enough description to do this, get help understanding the instructions if needed.
From post 20 which describes the general location of the wire:
This junction connection is located below the center console in a location similar to what the picture below shows in an IS350. Simply locate this connector, unplug it, spray electrical contact cleaner in both sides and work in and out a few times.
I located the cable at the base of the center console, where it meets the dash. There is a small panel close to the floor, under the console, that is easily removed that has an AC jack. I disconnected the cable from the junction connector and restarted the car without the cable connected. I then reconnected the cable, restarted the car and had the audio restored.
Then study the photo in post 23 which shows what the connector looks like.
Did you not read the prior posts 20-26? I do not have any photos for you. There are photos above and enough description to do this, get help understanding the instructions if needed.
From post 20 which describes the general location of the wire:
This junction connection is located below the center console in a location similar to what the picture below shows in an IS350. Simply locate this connector, unplug it, spray electrical contact cleaner in both sides and work in and out a few times.
I located the cable at the base of the center console, where it meets the dash. There is a small panel close to the floor, under the console, that is easily removed that has an AC jack. I disconnected the cable from the junction connector and restarted the car without the cable connected. I then reconnected the cable, restarted the car and had the audio restored.
Then study the photo in post 23 which shows what the connector looks like.
Having read the post multiple times... my questions stem from trying to understand what panels I need to remove to see the connector. The picture of the connector is like a pic of a treasure chest but I needed a map to the chest first. This is compounded by me being a visual person... so accusations that I didn't read are likely due to that.
After removing the panel where the power socket and storage cubby is in the center console ( accessible through the foot wells)... I couldn't see the described cable. Only cable there was for the power socket... at least on the F Sport with the 12 speaker ML system.
So then i removed the entire center console which come out in 2 pieces. This was an adventure... Then again looked from each foot well and also under the air vent piping the fitted through the center console. That's where I ended up finding a similar connector. The previous posts didn't give me the impression I needed to dismantle all this to find the connector.
it's the bundle of cables just above the yellow ones. Hope this helps someone else. i had the take out the entire Centre console to see the cables.
The ML system is most likely wired differently from the system that almost everyone else has. I bet there were less than 10% of cars with the ML system. The connectors may even look different.
I would try checking every connector you can find. Separate the reconnect them. It has to be somewhere around the center console and going to a wire that continues to the rear of the vehicle.
Maybe something will appear loose during this exploration.
Passenger side foot well.
this might help some of you. There is also a set of wires that are in the passenger foot well. They lead to the amp that is between rear seats and trunk.
hope this puts this problem to bed.
Almost forgot... since my issue seems correlated to slamming passenger door... I also pulled that panel off and sprayed and cleaned this connectors. The door panel is held in with 4 screws. But this might have been a wild goose chase.
You might be able to get at some of the cables from the panel that had the power jack of your hands can grip the connectors and you can contort yourself to see our all. Access this panel from foot well.
Then the connectors are at the top right above the yellow cables. Bundle of cables to the top right (wrapped in black). Even sticking my phone into the cubby I could get a clear shot at the cables. Only realized after taking out the center console... to know what I was looking for.
Hope this helps the next guy.
The silver lining is taking out the console I found damage the dealership mechanics did the the plastic tabs in the console... so I repaired that by plastic welding... ugly but functional.
So after pulling apart the console and cleaning the connectors. everything seemed fine... for about a week and then lost audio again for a few days then it came back... and lost it again and now it's been ok for over a week (we have cold weather now). what is going on? What/where else can I check?
Just be careful unplugging the yellow wires. Yellow wires and connectors are a common indication that the plugs are parts of the Airbag System. I tend to not mess with those parts unless absolutely necessary.
Originally Posted by Burnman67
RESOLVED - After having spent many hours and $$$ (see above) I reached out to Joe Flaherty, President at OEM Auto Audio Inc. whose company specializes in audio electronics and AMP testing and repair. Based on my situation, he told me to try the following:It’s very likely to be a junction connection that is located in between the amplifier and head-unit. The smaller connector that plugs in the amplifier is the data connection between the head-unit and amplifier. Instead of using one long set of cables, Lexus uses a short section that then connects to a longer section to go to the amplifier. This junction connection is located below the center console in a location similar to what the picture below shows in an IS350. Simply locate this connector, unplug it, spray electrical contact cleaner in both sides and work in and out a few times.
I located the cable at the base of the center console, where it meets the dash. There is a small panel close to the floor, under the console, that is easily removed that has an AC jack. I disconnected the cable from the junction connector and restarted the car without the cable connected. I then reconnected the cable, restarted the car and had the audio restored.
According to Joe, many of the dealers are not aware of this solution. Good luck and a big thanks to Joe Flaherty. See his contact information below:
Thank you thank you! I was having the same issue with my audio system. I tried buying a new amp and that didn’t work. I called the dealership and they said it would be about $4000 and they didn’t even know what the problem was. I reseated this connector without even using any spray, and it’s working again. I’ll plan to spray it the next chance I get, but that was the problem.
It's elusive... Has been working for a couple weeks again. I'm at a loss as to how to troubleshoot this.
Yeah same. I sometimes get it to work for a week or 2 at a time then out of nowhere it pops back up. For now I keep the panel off and quickly yank the connector when things go haywire.
Male and female pins are captured (and released by clip) in plastic connectors. The connectors usually have a personalization where they can only be connected with each other. Actual bared wires are crimped onto the pin. [one possible failure is that during crimping insulation gets in-between making a poor contact between wire and pin ... remove the pin and visually see]. back end of the pin is crimped on to the insulation of the wire. This prevents the wires from being broken as the wire moves. Once the connectors are coupled, there is a wire tension relief clamp that secures the harness to the component. This important thing also reduces movement between the connector ends and the pins inside. [Bad mechanics and bad DIYers do not pay attention to this and it immensely reduces the integrity of the connections].
Actually connection is by mating of the male and female pins and the connection is by contact only. Although the connectors can be attached and separated many times, but every time the pin shape is forced to change and the spring design tries to bring it back, Grease oil etc can also corrode/coat the pins. Techs have a test called the drag test of the pins [they check how loose the connection is between the male and female pins]. If the pins are clean [bare metal] and there is drag then they will form a good contact. Cleaners degreasers, connects and disconnects can clean the pins but to reestablish a good drag the pins need to be reshaped.
Personally I would replace the pins, There may be unused pins or you can get a replacement from Lexus parts from their repair kit. If you re wire the connector please leave Sharpie note on the connector.
The pins in the connector can be pulled out by depressing a tab through a tiny hole.
All the above is fine and good, but one has to narrow down which connector and which wire. Good luck with that.
I would clean both parts of the connector (male and female) with electrical contact cleaner spray. I would then take a good look at the condition of the pins to see if any are misaligned. You may need a magnifying glass to get a proper look.
Forgot to mention electrolytic grease. This would help **** the pins just right to form a connection and also encapsulates the pins so that grime and oxidation does not happen.
Hi folks, my issue is similar but different enough to share.
2010 RX 350 no navigation
Mostly when the ambient temperature is hot or the dash is in direct sunlight, when I start the car the radio powers off then on, cycling every few minutes. The buttons are inoperable during this time. The head unit remains off.
after a little while the system comes back to life and everything is operable and functions normally.
10-25-23, 04:35 AM
Audio still intermittent
