Really dead battery in cold - odd symptoms
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Really dead battery in cold - odd symptoms
19 degrees. The 3.5 year old battery started the car with the remote and it started and ran for the ten minutes. Decided for another ten and it started and then died. Nothing.
Could not open the doors. You could hear the solenoid clicking but none of 4 doors would open. Tried using the manual key and same result. CLicking but no entry. Was on the
phone with Lexus to get a flatbead and tried one more thing. Tried to use remote to open hatch. Same result but suddenly the driver door would open. Popped hood and used my
jump start battery pack. Nothing. Bunch of lights and flashing on instrument panel but nothing. Went to COstco and grabbed new battery. Five minutes to switch them and everything
works. Took about 30 seconds for first start - sounded like it was waiting for fuel. Did not lose radio presents or seats. All in all - best result I could imagine when working on car in below
freezing weather.
Could not open the doors. You could hear the solenoid clicking but none of 4 doors would open. Tried using the manual key and same result. CLicking but no entry. Was on the
phone with Lexus to get a flatbead and tried one more thing. Tried to use remote to open hatch. Same result but suddenly the driver door would open. Popped hood and used my
jump start battery pack. Nothing. Bunch of lights and flashing on instrument panel but nothing. Went to COstco and grabbed new battery. Five minutes to switch them and everything
works. Took about 30 seconds for first start - sounded like it was waiting for fuel. Did not lose radio presents or seats. All in all - best result I could imagine when working on car in below
freezing weather.
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autotech13 (01-19-24)
#4
Driver
Thread Starter
Yeah it was interesting to sit in car with every light flashing and the clock hands spinning until they hit 12:00. Looking for the alien ship that was beaming me up. The inability to open the door with the mechanical key is interesting .
#5
Racer
I've never used the mechanical key, but I thought the point of it is to not depend on electronics to open the door. No?
#7
According to my manual, the mechanical key will unlock the driver's door even with a dead battery. If the battery does have some juice left it will unlock the other doors when turned to the right a second time. Apparently, the driver door lock is mechanical and should work no matter what. Maybe someone here has done this with a dead battery.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Obviously I tried it with a dead battery and it failed. I may try something here. I didn't do this because the entire job was to get the new battery in quickly. I plan to go back and add the felt washers on the terminals that help prevent corrosion. If I can remember I will try the mechnical key with battery disconnected. Again I could hear the locks clicking - just the door would not move. And I really pulled on the handle in case it was frozen. None of which explains why the same dead battery let me open the door after hitting the rear hatch release. and adding that I tried it with both mechanical keys - just in case
#9
In winter months I use a battery tender. It trickle charges your battery and maintains the battery's 12volts. Been using them for years. My last battery lasted 8yrs.
They are small enough to mount under the hood. Just run an extension cord to power. When I replace my battery last month it started to crank the car slower than normal, plus it was19 degrees that day. Figured I got my money worth out of it.
They are small enough to mount under the hood. Just run an extension cord to power. When I replace my battery last month it started to crank the car slower than normal, plus it was19 degrees that day. Figured I got my money worth out of it.
The following users liked this post:
jcg0324 (01-19-24)
#10
In winter months I use a battery tender. It trickle charges your battery and maintains the battery's 12volts. Been using them for years. My last battery lasted 8yrs.
They are small enough to mount under the hood. Just run an extension cord to power. When I replace my battery last month it started to crank the car slower than normal, plus it was19 degrees that day. Figured I got my money worth out of it.
They are small enough to mount under the hood. Just run an extension cord to power. When I replace my battery last month it started to crank the car slower than normal, plus it was19 degrees that day. Figured I got my money worth out of it.
#11
#12
It is normal for battery voltage to be lower with a lower electrolyte temperature. This is especially noticeable for a connected "in circuit" car battery.
Last edited by jcg0324; 01-19-24 at 05:44 PM. Reason: correction
#13
#14
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (22)
Originally Posted by bamalam;[url=tel:11653122
11653122[/url]]Are you thinking it's time to replace the battery or you have an alternator/charging system problem?
I am currently charging the battery with an external charger.
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
Well I figured out why the mechanical key did not work. I had turned the key and pulled on handle since I was holding the handle to access the keyslot. Turns out that is not the procedure.
From the manual
Remove the key, return the handle,
and then pull the handle again.
You have to let go of the handle and then pull again.
From the manual
Remove the key, return the handle,
and then pull the handle again.
You have to let go of the handle and then pull again.
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