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The debate goes on. I'm an Amsoil and Wix filter guy.
To have some confidence in your chosen oil, filter, and change interval, I highly recommend having your oil tested at whatever interval makes sense to you. I first got mine tested around 40K miles and I'm about to do it again at 60K miles. Here's your link:
They'll email you a very informative lab report and assessment of your oil's effectiveness. It's much more convincing than an argument or someone else's review of a product. ;-)
Use what you like but $26 is not considered a deal.
Really? What is?
You throw out that statement but don't back it up with anything.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is running $36+.
How much are you saving under $26 from a name brand oil?
Walmart brand? Doesn't count. At 2.5K, its ok.
But this Valvoline Restore and Protect has been specially designed to remove piston ring deposits.
No other oil offers that particular, focused, capability.
Watch my Youtube post on Car Care Nut, and what piston ring buildup will due to a Toy/Lex engine at 100K with 10K changes.
Don't forget a Royal Purple filter to trap that sub 20 micron particulate matter.
I'll run 2 oil changes with Valvoline and may then switch to Costco or Walmart at 2K - 2.5K changes.
Originally Posted by dibl
The debate goes on. I'm an Amsoil and Wix filter guy.
To have some confidence in your chosen oil, filter, and change interval, I highly recommend having your oil tested at whatever interval makes sense to you. I first got mine tested around 40K miles and I'm about to do it again at 60K miles. Here's your link:
They'll email you a very informative lab report and assessment of your oil's effectiveness. It's much more convincing than an argument or someone else's review of a product. ;-)
Good idea.
I went with the testing results from the Youtube video I had posted.
It's excellent because they factor in both Flow and Filtration.
In their tests, Purolator Boss was the best.
RP had better filtration but lower flow.
A classic, physics issue: Flow vs Filtration.
They work against each other.
Their Top of the Line 0W-20, "Advanced Full Synthetic, High Mileage" states 20K oil changes.
Absolute, rubbish.
I have no intention of using their oil when they market it with such nonsense.
Honestly, does ANYBODY on this forum believe that?
20K miles. They're lying to you.
That is 100%, going to create sludge in your engine.
Why does Walmart have such a following? 90%+ of what they sell is made in China.
The debate goes on. I'm an Amsoil and Wix filter guy.
To have some confidence in your chosen oil, filter, and change interval, I highly recommend having your oil tested at whatever interval makes sense to you. I first got mine tested around 40K miles and I'm about to do it again at 60K miles. Here's your link:
They'll email you a very informative lab report and assessment of your oil's effectiveness. It's much more convincing than an argument or someone else's review of a product. ;-)
If you dig into it, you'll see I've gone as far as 14k miles on my IS F. I have used the genuine factory filter specifically for the 2UR-GSE, the US "equivalent" YZZ filter, and currently the WIX XP filter. The ONLY difference you can see clearly in the results is when I switched from Mobil 1 5w-30 to Renewable Lubricants SHP PCMO 5w-30 (Lexus specifies 5w-30 for the engine). Iron tracks mileage, and it is indisputable based on my results across both engines. Amsoil Signature series is also excellent oil.
I keep my cars for a very long time compared to most owners. I do ALL my own maintenance, and I subscribe to TIS at the professional level to get Techstream access on my laptop. I have over 220k miles on my IS F and the wife's GS F has more than 130k miles. They have been mostly trouble free outside of the known issues. The IS F has been to a few track weekends. It is not babied at all. There are track weekends on some of those very long runs, and the rate of iron wear remained pretty constant. Those were all using Mobil 1 5w-30, which I would not recommend for any Lexus engine ever again based on what I learned in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...hetic-oil.html. Lexus tunes their engines to run rich to avoid warranty failure from running lean. The know the catalytic converters will clean up the richness, and their warranty costs will be reduced. This causes fuel dilution of the oil because some of the blowby gets into the oil and reduces the oil's viscosity. It also means a larger amount of oil will get past the oil control rings and cause detonation because oil has a very low octane rating. Fuel dilution is extremely well managed by the oil I run, and you can see it in the iron wear numbers over time. This is why I don't run Mobil 1 and I don't recommend it for Lexus's tune. It's not good for the long term owner.
If you keep your car a long time, pick your poison. Buy good oil and filters, have fewer problems. Buy oil and filters based on price, expect to have problems in the long run (over 150k miles).
If you lease your car, use whatever oil you like and you'll be fine - you're ditching the car long before oil quality matters, but if you plan to keep your car well into triple digit mileage, spend the money on good oil and filters. It will make a considerable difference.
Really? What is?
You throw out that statement but don't back it up with anything.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is running $36+.
How much are you saving under $26 from a name brand oil?
Walmart brand? Doesn't count. At 2.5K, its ok.
But this Valvoline Restore and Protect has been specially designed to remove piston ring deposits.
No other oil offers that particular, focused, capability.
Watch my Youtube post on Car Care Nut, and what piston ring buildup will due to a Toy/Lex engine at 100K with 10K changes.
Don't forget a Royal Purple filter to trap that sub 20 micron particulate matter.
I'll run 2 oil changes with Valvoline and may then switch to Costco or Walmart at 2K - 2.5K changes.
You don't need a Restore and Protect product if you run decent oil in the first place. See my post above. UOA for the entire life of 2 cars is documented here on Club Lexus. I have the data and it's posted for all to see!
Changing the oil at 1.5k and 3.0k is not supported by science. Change at 1.0k to get the swarth out of the engine from the factory, then resume with the manufacturer's interval. Lexus is exceptionally conservative with their service intervals as evidenced from my own used oil analysis over the 220k mile (so far) service on my IS F. My Supra has done 10k oil changes since it I got it in 1997 running Red Line 5w-30, and despite being a garage queen, it still has 160k miles and shows no signs of oil related wear.
I spent time building motorcycle engines for street and competition (even won some championships) and learned a lot about the myths around oil by taking apart the builds I put together. The biggest takeaway from that experience is buy cheap, expect cheap results. Good oil isn't cheap. Good filtration isn't cheap. Throwing out good oil is just as bad as running good oil too long. Every oil change is an opportunity to introduce insolubles into the engine. They are the greatest enemy of long term reliability.
physics is not the right term, it’s Tribology - science of lubrication, friction, and wear which combines physics, chemistry, materials science, and engineering. Oil filter fits under tribology.
And yes - plenty of opinion here and I don’t agree that filtration is the goal. the goal is reducing engine wear. Higher flow provides more lubrication and less heat. The impurities in a modern clean burning engine doesn’t need significant filtering.
I have been using OEM filters and reasonably priced properly rated and weighted oil to maintain my vehicles for 40 years. (I use Pennzoil Full Synthetic....like $25/5 quart jug) I always change oil at 5000 miles.
All of my vehicles have had mileages well over 100,000, many over 200,000 miles, and my last one over 305,000 miles. In all of that time I never had any oil related or engine issues with any of them.
This is the same for all of the fluids in your vehicle....do some basic proper maintenance with the proper parts/fluids at the appropriate intervals and you can keep your vehicle running almost forever.
If you sell or trade in your lease before 100,000 miles, you can probably even follow the 10,000 mile oil change recommendation if your driving conditions qualify, (and keep your lifetime fluids) and have no problems.
physics is not the right term, it’s Tribology - science of lubrication, friction, and wear which combines physics, chemistry, materials science, and engineering. Oil filter fits under tribology.
And yes - plenty of opinion here and I don’t agree that filtration is the goal. the goal is reducing engine wear. Higher flow provides more lubrication and less heat. The impurities in a modern clean burning engine doesn’t need significant filtering.
eg to illustrate this:
You have to show me where it states using a RP or Puro-Boss filter leads to greater wear and heat because of the flow.
The flow remains well within Toy/Lex specs.
Dirtier oil, running through an engine at a faster rate is going to exacerbate the wear.
Originally Posted by Quantum501
Is this an issue?
I have been using OEM filters and reasonably priced properly rated and weighted oil to maintain my vehicles for 40 years. (I use Pennzoil Full Synthetic....like $25/5 quart jug) I always change oil at 5000 miles.
All of my vehicles have had mileages well over 100,000, many over 200,000 miles, and my last one over 305,000 miles. In all of that time I never had any oil related or engine issues with any of them.
This is the same for all of the fluids in your vehicle....do some basic proper maintenance with the proper parts/fluids at the appropriate intervals and you can keep your vehicle running almost forever.
If you sell or trade in your lease before 100,000 miles, you can probably even follow the 10,000 mile oil change recommendation if your driving conditions qualify, (and keep your lifetime fluids) and have no problems.
At 5k, you WILL have greater deposits/wear, than an engine changed at 2.5K, all things being the same.
But 5K should get you to the miles you state.
10K is a whole different matter.
Car Care Nut proves this.
I know people seem to have this unbridled allegiance to what Toyota states, but they plainly state 10K oil changes.
For the long term owner, that is a fatal mistake and costly.
Changing the oil at 1.5k and 3.0k is not supported by science. Change at 1.0k to get the swarth out of the engine from the factory, then resume with the manufacturer's interval. Lexus is exceptionally conservative with their service intervals as evidenced from my own used oil analysis over the 220k mile (so far) service on my IS F. My Supra has done 10k oil changes since it I got it in 1997 running Red Line 5w-30, and despite being a garage queen, it still has 160k miles and shows no signs of oil related wear.
I spent time building motorcycle engines for street and competition (even won some championships) and learned a lot about the myths around oil by taking apart the builds I put together. The biggest takeaway from that experience is buy cheap, expect cheap results. Good oil isn't cheap. Good filtration isn't cheap. Throwing out good oil is just as bad as running good oil too long. Every oil change is an opportunity to introduce insolubles into the engine. They are the greatest enemy of long term reliability.
But the Head engineer for Nissan's GT-R program states 2K oil changes.
Science dictates that the more often you change the oil, the lower the engine wear.
Science, clearly dictates that.
But how often is OK, Toyota states 10K, but science clearly states that is BS.
So if you change it every 100 miles, your engine should last for, what, 2 million miles?
Exactly.
How long is too long between changes.
Walmart Oil states 20K, Toyota/Lexus states 10K, Car Care Nut states 5K, Nissan GT-R Engineer states 2K, . .
Who to believe?
I lean towards the lower end. Not the people who are OEM's (Original Equipment MARKETERS), as they will lie to the long term owner.
They don't like you. They want you to change.
I've changed oil at 5K and its Black as coal and pouring slower. How long has it been that dirty?
I've been changing my own oil since 1976, and I find 2K - 2.5K as the correct mileage.
Toy has 4cyl and 6cyl engines pulling over 5,000 lbs.
For example: The 2024 Lexus LX has a twin-turbocharged V6 engine that produces 409 horsepower and 479 lb-ft of torque weighing 5,800lbs with a 8,000lb towing capacity.
3.4L, and those tiny 6 cylinders are pulling that much weight.
And you think oil changes at 10K is ok? That's what Lexus claims. Absolute insanity.
GoBose, please stop with the multiple replies, do it all in one post vs continuous responses. I've merged your last 3 sets of posts.
To everyone in this thread. If you've already made your perspective known (or in some cases made it repeatedly), no need to keep stating the same thing over again. Consider you've been heard and don't be repetitive. Let's keep this discussion focused on the RX please.
If you dig into it, you'll see I've gone as far as 14k miles on my IS F. I have used the genuine factory filter specifically for the 2UR-GSE, the US "equivalent" YZZ filter, and currently the WIX XP filter. The ONLY difference you can see clearly in the results is when I switched from Mobil 1 5w-30 to Renewable Lubricants SHP PCMO 5w-30 (Lexus specifies 5w-30 for the engine). Iron tracks mileage, and it is indisputable based on my results across both engines. Amsoil Signature series is also excellent oil.
I keep my cars for a very long time compared to most owners. I do ALL my own maintenance, and I subscribe to TIS at the professional level to get Techstream access on my laptop. I have over 220k miles on my IS F and the wife's GS F has more than 130k miles. They have been mostly trouble free outside of the known issues. The IS F has been to a few track weekends. It is not babied at all. There are track weekends on some of those very long runs, and the rate of iron wear remained pretty constant. Those were all using Mobil 1 5w-30, which I would not recommend for any Lexus engine ever again based on what I learned in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rc-...hetic-oil.html. Lexus tunes their engines to run rich to avoid warranty failure from running lean. The know the catalytic converters will clean up the richness, and their warranty costs will be reduced. This causes fuel dilution of the oil because some of the blowby gets into the oil and reduces the oil's viscosity. It also means a larger amount of oil will get past the oil control rings and cause detonation because oil has a very low octane rating. Fuel dilution is extremely well managed by the oil I run, and you can see it in the iron wear numbers over time. This is why I don't run Mobil 1 and I don't recommend it for Lexus's tune. It's not good for the long term owner.
If you keep your car a long time, pick your poison. Buy good oil and filters, have fewer problems. Buy oil and filters based on price, expect to have problems in the long run (over 150k miles).
If you lease your car, use whatever oil you like and you'll be fine - you're ditching the car long before oil quality matters, but if you plan to keep your car well into triple digit mileage, spend the money on good oil and filters. It will make a considerable difference.
Wow. 14K between oil changes.
IDK, been changing my own oil since 1976, and at 5K it's as Black as Coal and pouring slower.
06-19-24 | 11:03 AM
