djc102987

Hello,

I am having problems finding a viable solution for my desire to upgrade my factory sound system. I have purchased the correct sized aftermarket speakers and plan to include a 10" 4-ohm amp and would like to power all of it with the 1000w 5-channel RF Punch Amp. My question is how do I / What products are out there are will allow me to retain my factory amp to continue powering the center channel speaker while also allowing me to output/input into the aftermarket RF amp? I have seen a couple of proposed solutions, but they all seem to only work with the Non-NAV systems. Any guidance/feedback you can provide is greatly appreciated!

-Daniel

DaSyce

iTrader: (3)

I don’t think many have tackled this. I believe you could tap/tie into the output speaker wires for the front stage and subwoofers output just as it leaves the factory amplifier. Provided the audio is not integrated to a canbus system (probably is), you would take the high level signal to the input of the aftermarket amplifier. Then run new speaker wires to each location.


You could get the amplifier running pretty easy, but making it sound remarkably better (sq, not spl) would be the real challenge.

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

You need a LC7I audio controller

Your amp is located under the armrest!

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

2016 RX350 base

I was told my radio has an all-pass filter which it would work terrible with a audio-control DSP 810.
I was also told in order to fix that I had to get the new Kicker Key loc system to fix it.

So I am asking is this the right route to go? I want to improve my listening experience right now that stage crap has got to go. I hate it. I want to music to hit me in both ears rather then in front of me. So i am trying to do this set-up right.

so is getting a Kicker Key the rought i need to go.

lexnewbi

This does not make sense to me. An all-pass filter passes all frequencies, which is a good thing since you are not cascading several filters in succession: audio-control plus radio equalizer. An equalizer would apply boost or cut to a set of bandpass files and is the opposite of an all-pass filter. Normally, the output of the audio system is fed to the audio-control unit and then that is boosted by the speaker amplifiers. Where are you planning to connect or insert this audio-control unit?

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/oem-aud...g72aFmnKIDQyGs

i got it from there

How All-Pass Filters Fix Frequency Response Problems

The goal of the companies designing audio systems that come with the cars and trucks we purchase is to deliver the best sound possible, given the restraints of the vehicle design and budget. These companies have the tools to analyze not only the output of each speaker but to understand how each speaker in an audio system interacts with the others.

The goal of these audio systems is to deliver a smooth frequency response and good imaging. If they know there is a dip in the frequency response at the listening position because of pathlength differences between the speakers, they have two choices to resolve the issue: signal delay or all-pass filters.

Delaying the output from the closest speaker so that the sound it produces arrives at the listening position at the same time as the sound from the other side speaker works great. If the output level is also matched, it can seem as though you are sitting exactly between the speakers. The drawback is that the person in the passenger seat ends up with a mess – the passenger experiences terrible imaging and poor frequency response. We refer to a car audio system that uses signal delay to create a soundstage as having a “one-seat tune,” as only one seating position will sound good.

Option two is to use all-pass filters at the frequencies that are canceling. By shifting phase at the frequencies where cancellation occurs, the sum of the left and the right signals add instead of subtract. More and more factory-installed audio systems are using all-pass filters to deliver a good listening experience for both the driver and the passenger.

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

What I am trying to do is get rid of the sound stage B.S crap it doesnt sound good to me. I want the music hitting both my ears.

Currently i have hookup is just a LC7I with a subwoofer.

The sub transwerformed my listening experience but it lacks because of the sound stage profile.

so i want to first replace all the speakers with alpine. Then I want to figure out if i just go JBL or D 1200 audio control Both have DSP in them.

I was told you cant mess with time delay or anything because of the all pass filters the factory radio has so i would have to clean it fresh with no corrections to the sound with a Kicker Key loc. at least thats my understanding of it.



So i was thinking FACTORY AMP>KICKER KEY LOC> DSP AMP>SPEAKERS

djc102987

Thanks for the responses thus far. I'm feeling a bit defeated at this point and am wondering if it is even worth going to all of this trouble. I have all the equipment the installer recommended and now he just quit 3 days before he was going to perform the install. He wouldn't admit it, but I believe this type of install is over his head and his pride got in the way. Moving on, how do I integrate this equipment into my car so I can enjoy this high quality sound.

Here's what I have so far:

P1000X5
(2 sets) Hertz MPK 165.3 component
P3D4-10
Speaker adaptors, cables, etc

What am I missing? What do I need to get in order to obtain the best possible sound? I've seen a lot of the amp harness manufacturers saying their products don't work with navigation. Why is that?

I don't want to take all of this stuff back and feel as though there has to be a way to do this the right way, but I'm getting discouraged. The more detailed help, the better. I'm at your mercy for guidance.

-DC

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

at my mercy?


bro im in the same boat lol

all i know is you need to connect to the factory amp

read the article i posted. might help understand things a little better.

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i found all my speaker wires from the amp and labeled them so now what lol? I was told i would need a kicker key loc because my car has a all band pass filter that will mess up using a dsp straight from the amp. So if i get a kicker key lock what wires do i tap into that unit?

Kicker key lock only had 4 wires to connect to it.

So which do i use?

Photo:
10 speakers all labeled

FL DASH
CENTER
FR DASH
FLD
RLD
RRD
RR TWEETER
LR TWEETER
LRD
SUB

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

Think im going with a Helix

Just gotta figure out which model i need

Dmtguy2006

2021 lexus rx 350, non nav, 9 speaker setup

Looking to install a 1500w skar Amp into my vehicle. I've been researching this thread, and I've found some useful info about wiring diagrams and such, but since this is the nicest vehicle I've owned, I don't want to destroy anything.

If anyone has installed an aftermarket Amp on this vehicle, I'm just looking for pointers.

How did you run the Amp cable from the engine compartment to the Amp? What grommet did you go through in the firewall?

How did you run the remote wire to the Amp? Did you tap into a fuse under the hood, or under the drivers side panel?

How did you run the rca output cables to the Amp? Did you tap into the wires behind the radio? Or did you use a line output converter, and tap into the front door speakers?

​​​​​What side of the vehicle did you run the Amp power wire? I'm asking this because I ran an audio system in a Toyota, and ran the power wire down the passenger side of the vehicle, and I didn't know that the cars antenna cable was also ran on that side and it interfered with the cars antenna signal. When I turned the Amp up, it distorted the radio signal, so I always had to use Bluetooth music from my phone.

Any pointers would be appreciated

​​​

jcg0324

1500 W off of a 12 volt system? That's 125 amps. I hope you know what you are doing (good luck). And please don't drive in my neighborhood, we already have enough noise.