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Check the Lexus 7 Pin harness for any visible wire damage. I think you can drop it down a bit to check. Strange that that harness would have an issue, Lexus has it routed/secured pretty well. Did you try a battery disconnect reset on the entire RX? Maybe that will correct the issue.
I will take a look tomorrow (night time now) at the wire. In the mean time how do I do a battery reset?
Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so. You might lose some radio settings and it's normal to get an ICS error which goes away after you drive the RX for a bit.
Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or so. You might lose some radio settings and it's normal to get an ICS error which goes away after you drive the RX for a bit.
Thanks, FlopTop! I will try that tomorrow and post back!
Use a Digital Multi Meter to verify that there is +12V on the Purple wire at Pin 7 of the SLP 7 Pin connector.
You can do this with the factory harness unplugged. If the +12V is missing when the START PTS button is ON, then start checking fuses.
I don't have a vehicle wiring diagram but here are photos of the two fuse box covers with the fuses listed and the most probable fuses highlighted.
Remember that the best test is a static test with the fuse removed and the DMM set to Ohms.
Use a Digital Multi Meter to verify that there is +12V on the Purple wire at Pin 7 of the SLP 7 Pin connector.
You can do this with the factory harness unplugged. If the +12V is missing when the START PTS button is ON, then start checking fuses.
I don't have a vehicle wiring diagram but here are photos of the two fuse box covers with the fuses listed and the most probable fuses highlighted.
Remember that the best test is a static test with the fuse removed and the DMM set to Ohms.
update --- unplugged power from the battery for 1 hour then reconnected did not help
After turn on the Push start button, how do I verify there is power on the Purple wire? Connect the multimeter red lead to Purple wire and the black lead connect to where? Sorry I am a little slow
Thanks!
The digital multimeter showed 0 when checking the purple wire with push start button turn on 2 times. One note is that because the SLP 7 pin connector is hard to reach so I connected the one end of Evo T-hardness to OEM SLP 7 pin connector as an extension then measure the voltage from the other end of the T-hardness instead. I am not sure if this is the right way.
Also after the car has problem, I tried to re-program the remote start module last week, no power came on the module. That also confirm there is no power coming out from the SLP 7 pin connector.
I removed each of the fuses you pointed out from the images you sent earlier and everyone of them are good, they passed continuity test (multimeter sound).
There should be +12V at that Purple wire. The EVO-One T-Harness uses that to supply power to the EVO-One,
This lack of +12V at that pin would be the cause of the current problem for both the vehicle and the EVO-One (when installed).
I would start checking all the fuses to ensure that none are blown. It might not have been one of the ones I pointed out. The brief description for each fuse is hard to interpret and might be incomplete.
Just noticed one fuse that looks very promising. It's a 10 Amp in the dash fuse box marked "STRG LOCK".
There should be +12V at that Purple wire. The EVO-One T-Harness uses that to supply power to the EVO-One,
This lack of +12V at that pin would be the cause of the current problem for both the vehicle and the EVO-One (when installed).
I would start checking all the fuses to ensure that none are blown. It might not have been one of the ones I pointed out. The brief description for each fuse is hard to interpret and might be incomplete.
Just noticed one fuse that looks very promising. It's a 10 Amp in the dash fuse box marked "STRG LOCK".
Yeah, I'd say "STRG LOCK" fuse would sound promising!
While it's possible the fuse blew on it's own or due to a poor T-Harness connection, I would closely inspect the T-Harness for chaffed or broken wires. If everything looks OK, you could try re-installing it. Just ensure the T-Harness is properly routed and secured to prevent any issues with the Tilt/Telescopic movement of the steering column. You might not even have to re-program the EVO-One.
While it's possible the fuse blew on it's own or due to a poor T-Harness connection, I would closely inspect the T-Harness for chaffed or broken wires. If everything looks OK, you could try re-installing it. Just ensure the T-Harness is properly routed and secured to prevent any issues with the Tilt/Telescopic movement of the steering column. You might not even have to re-program the EVO-One.
Yeah...I re-installed the Fortin EVO-ALL remote start and made sure the telescopic won't interfere with the Fortin T-hardness. I tried the remote start a few times and it has been working as expected so far. I will see how it goes
02-26-22, 04:20 PM
It's a 10 Amp in the dash fuse box marked "STRG LOCK".
