RX - 4th Gen (2016-2022) Discussion topics related to the 2016 and up RX350 and RX450h models

Coolant Replacement FKS

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Old 09-05-22 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
Keep us posted if you are planning to do yours.

Drain and refill and bleed IMO is already good enough. No need to remove the block drain.
I could not find the block drain....I think that it is under one of the hoses and my engine was hot when I went looking. If it is there then it is a pain to access.

I am at 45,000 miles (2.5 years) so not essential to do immediately, but I like to stay ahead on maintenance. I will hunt around again with cool engine, but as you said, if it is a hassle will just do a drain, fill and bleed without the block.
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Old 10-08-22 | 03:44 AM
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Viktor just did the video showing the block drain and the whole procedure!


Last edited by Quantum501; 10-08-22 at 06:00 AM.
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Old 02-12-23 | 06:13 PM
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So, after watching the video, I don't see why is it harder? It is actually quite straight forward.
Old 02-13-23 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
So, after watching the video, I don't see why is it harder? It is actually quite straight forward.
I think that it is only more complicated if you drain the block also. Access to the valve is more difficult than previous apparently. Many don't bother.
You can hear Viktor's glove squeezing into the gap to retrieve the swivel and socket.

Does not look too difficult. I will probably do this in the summer when the garage is warmer.
Some of my maintenance got pushed back after I broke my shoulder and climbing around under the car was not an option. Nothing is past due so I have some time.
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Old 02-13-23 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Quantum501
I think that it is only more complicated if you drain the block also. Access to the valve is more difficult than previous apparently. Many don't bother.
You can hear Viktor's glove squeezing into the gap to retrieve the swivel and socket.

Does not look too difficult. I will probably do this in the summer when the garage is warmer.
Some of my maintenance got pushed back after I broke my shoulder and climbing around under the car was not an option. Nothing is past due so I have some time.
The 2010 - 2015 RX has a drain block on the back of the engine as well. I thought the 2016 - 2022 would not be visible, but it actually is. So no complications there.
Old 02-14-23 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
The 2010 - 2015 RX has a drain block on the back of the engine as well. I thought the 2016 - 2022 would not be visible, but it actually is. So no complications there.
Good to know. Maybe CCN was comparing to another engine when he said that it was more difficult.
Old 02-14-23 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Quantum501
Good to know. Maybe CCN was comparing to another engine when he said that it was more difficult.
Nope. CCN was referring to the 2GR-FKS, which is ours.
Old 02-14-23 | 02:12 PM
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not sure why he would say that. He knows a hell of a lot more than I do. Wish that he didn't live 1000 miles away or I would just take my car to him.
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Old 02-15-23 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Quantum501
not sure why he would say that. He knows a hell of a lot more than I do. Wish that he didn't live 1000 miles away or I would just take my car to him.
Right. But that is if only you cannot DIY, I would definitely agree.
Old 05-01-23 | 11:29 PM
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If you could post information about bleeding the coolant that would be appreciated.
Old 05-05-23 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
If you could post information about bleeding the coolant that would be appreciated.
Bleeding the coolant? I call it drain and fill. You have to do it more often because not all the old stuff is coming out. But it is cheap and easy. Same goes with the transmission. My mechanic told me " Jack, why you want the coolant drained and filled, your car has only 30,000 miles?" . I said it is 5 years old and I didn't want the grunge in there. He took care of it and used genuine Toyota coolant. I will do this every 5 years regardless of mileage. Setting up a maintenance schedule is a personal thing because we live in different parts of the world that have unique climates and we all have different driving habits. We also have our own personal budgets for transportation.
A car is a machine and is miraculous. But "a machine" it is not a miracle. A friend of mine many years ago bought a "brand new" Ford Torino. There was a rattle in the drivers door. The Ford service department took the door apart and there was an empty whiskey bottle in there. Go figure.
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Old 05-05-23 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jcg0324
Bleeding the coolant? I call it drain and fill. You have to do it more often because not all the old stuff is coming out. But it is cheap and easy. Same goes with the transmission. My mechanic told me " Jack, why you want the coolant drained and filled, your car has only 30,000 miles?" . I said it is 5 years old and I didn't want the grunge in there. He took care of it and used genuine Toyota coolant. I will do this every 5 years regardless of mileage. Setting up a maintenance schedule is a personal thing because we live in different parts of the world that have unique climates and we all have different driving habits. We also have our own personal budgets for transportation.
A car is a machine and is miraculous. But "a machine" it is not a miracle. A friend of mine many years ago bought a "brand new" Ford Torino. There was a rattle in the drivers door. The Ford service department took the door apart and there was an empty whiskey bottle in there. Go figure.
Yes, usually after doing a drain and refill, you are suppose to bleed the trapped air.
Old 05-05-23 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
If you could post information about bleeding the coolant that would be appreciated.
This video walks you through the entire process, with the exception of the bleeder on the block. Viktor's video showed it but even he had a difficult time reaching it.

I will be doing this within a month when I have some time.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2.../flush_coolant
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Old 05-06-23 | 08:51 AM
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I misunderstood an earlier post on bleeding. Yes, bleeding trapped air bubbles can be good if you can do it.
After a drain and fill there could be some trapped air bubbles. Not a big deal and how much are we talking about? 2 or 3 ounces? Check the fluid after you have been on a trip or when the cooling system has been warmed up for 20 or 30 minutes. Any air bubbles should come out. If you see the coolant level went down add a few ounces. That's what I did. Easy.
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Old 05-06-23 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jcg0324
I misunderstood an earlier post on bleeding. Yes, bleeding trapped air bubbles can be good if you can do it.
After a drain and fill there could be some trapped air bubbles. Not a big deal and how much are we talking about? 2 or 3 ounces? Check the fluid after you have been on a trip or when the cooling system has been warmed up for 20 or 30 minutes. Any air bubbles should come out. If you see the coolant level went down add a few ounces. That's what I did. Easy.
Depending on the application, trapped air may cause the following: overheating, heater to not work properly or even coolant temperature sensor to misinterpret (sensing air bubbles instead of liquid).

But if there is not a specific procedure, then I would just burp out the system the traditional way. By using
this this
, with the vehicle on ramps so that the radiator cap would at its highest point so trapped air can purge out, follow by squeezing the upper/lower radiator hose, and let it idle with the funnel kit Full for a while and call it a day. Some may turn the heater on to purge some of the old coolant or air out of the heater core, some may not do it.

But of course, if your way works, by all means continue to carry on.
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