Hi,

Does anyone know how to shift the car into neutral when the battery is dead and can't be jumped? Couldn't find anything in the manual or google.

 

I too have searched extensively and have found no way to take it out of park if the 12v battery is dead. That is due to there being no mechanical connection between the shifter and transmission.

 

You don't. You have to get power to the battery externally. Otherwise the car has to be towed using sleds to get it onto the flatbed, a painful procedure.

 

There is way, but is major pain. You need screwdriver to remove the console top and then you can manually turn it with with screw driver the gear thing. It same directions for Lexus LC.
Makes zero sense why they didn't make an easier way.


https://f01.justanswer.com/jhook1398...Dc3My40NC4wLjA.

 

Also, how do the electric parking brakes release with a dead battery?

 

Everyone should carry one of those lithium jump boxes in their cars, as a power source for all these issues.

 

I imagine it's the same procedure as with the NX.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/nx-...y-is-dead.html

 

Harbor Freight is handy for jumper cables and jumper packs.
I carry a set of their Viking 20' 4 gauge cables, under $30.

That said, I'll often use a jumper pack for convenience. I've got a Viking 450 CCA Lithium pack, in a small zipper case, which has been fine for jumping mid-size SUVs. That one is no longer sold, today I'd likely get the Cen-Tech 750 CCA for $50 (Inside Track Club member - normally $65) from HF.

(The little Cen-Tech battery maintainers also work well, if you know you won't be driving a vehicle for a while, want to keep the battery topped-off. I use their lowest cost $10 set on a lawn tractor at our camp, it's been working fine for the last two winters. Splurge on the one step up $20 one [$15 for Inside Track Club], perhaps, for a Lexus )

(That manual release method looks like a true PITA, removing a wheel, needing to replace an o-ring, etc. - truly recommend buying the jumper cables or pack.)

 

I agree on the jump-pack.

Regards the o-ring: You could replace it at a later date. "One time use" sounds like a lawyer thing.

 

True, but who would like to do yet another wheel remove/replace round (re-connecting the brake after you've rolled the car out to jump it), and once the wheel is initially pulled you have cleaning the connector and playing with two small wrenches to remove the housing, release the brake, reattach the housing.

Doable? Sure. Make sense to do if you can possibly just jump it to get things running? Nope.

Attached is a PDF of the Word doc from the other thread, it might be easier to open on a phone.