Ascho

This is the first car that I have purchased (rather than leased) in 20 years. Since I was turning in my previous cars after 36,000-40,000 miles, I never really worried about long term maintenance. Recently, I read a tip about maintaining the wiper blades with silicon spray or rubber seal conditioner. I never knew this was an issue. It got me thinking. What other things could I be doing to maintain my cars besides the recommended maintenance schedule? Should I be adding additives to the fuel? I am relatively ignorant when it comes to cars. What tips do the experts on this forum have for me?

Urlik

I never treat my wiper blades. I just replace them every few years. I do put a bottle of Techron fuel cleaner every oil change as well. The biggest tip is to actually follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule.

Ascho

I see Techron fuel injector cleaner or Techron concentrate plus fuel system cleaner or LucasOil 10013 fuel treatment that has 20,000 5 star reviews. Which one would be better? If it makes a difference, I have a 2023 RX350h.

Urlik

I use Techron concentrate plus fuel cleaner. I started using it year ago because Click and Clack recommended it. It freed up a sticky gas gauge on an old car of mine. I've been using it ever since.

tammap

I use 303 on all of my vehicle dashboards, wiper blades, rubber door trim mouldings, sunroof rubber trim mouldings and tires.

If you change your own oil, prefill your oil filter. If you don't change your own oil, then ask the installer nicely and hopefully he or she will do it.

Redline and Techron are both very good fuel system cleaners; use it periodically.

Urlik

Can’t prefill the oil filter on the Gen5 RX. All the engines have oil filters that stick straight out 90 degrees from vertical.

BLUKTY2

Very true on the angle of the filter, but I still soak the filter media with new oil before installation. I do this at the same time that I oil the filter gasket. While I haven't measured how much oil it will hold (and never will), I am surprised at how much it will absorb without leaking out while installing the filter.

BLUKTY2

Agree 100% with a good fuel system cleaner. I use the Redline cleaner before every oil change (5,000 miles).

tammap

45, 90 degrees or upside down really don't matter to me. Prefill the filter, and besides, most filters have an anti drainback valve. If you know how to handle it, very little oil will spill!

coolbrazz

I also use Techron concentrate fuel system cleaner and wipe a silicon-based lubricant on the wiper blades after every oil change. Applying the silicon makes my wipers last longer. You can also spray lubricant on all hinges and make sure you wipe off excess drips, and silicon once a year on all rubber seals and be sure to wipe this also.

Follow the Lexus maintenance schedule according to your driving habits & weather conditions in your region. Check your cabin & air filter after every oil change. Changing the filters is easy if you do not do the oil change yourself. If you don’t have a good mechanic shop, Toyota will do service a little cheaper, but not warranty issues. Oh, one more tip, keep drains clean, especially the sunroof. Many posts here on drain-clogs which may lead to wet carpet. Otherwise, I've have had good service from both RX350's I've own without any problems.

jahnjva

You can partially prefill.

tammap

Another tip for you car nuts out there like me.

The rotor's thinnest area is where it makes contact and is sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. Even in brand new rotor, the thinnest area under the microscope still has peaks and valleys. Imagine rust has formed between the rotor and the hub, and rotor and the wheel. Heat will no longer able to transfer to those two components.

I have always applied a very thin layer of copper antiseize on the surface of the hub to prevent rust and also to help with heat transfer, and a thin layer on the rotor and the wheel side.

The hubs and wheels will absorb some of the heat from the rotors and you will never have a problem with the rotors seizing to the hub and less likely of the rotor's warpage.

Cheers.

Urlik

Definitely worth doing to avoid the wheel seizing to the hub. The heat transfer is meh, especially for the fronts where air moving from the center and out by the vanes is shedding all the heat. The rotors are designed to shed heat, hubs not so much.

tammap

Brake rotor warpage usually happens when your foot rests on the brake at a stop. Take a look at this short video in its entirety.


Science only, not myth

Cheers

Urlik

Just on the still shot you can see the rotor sheds heat just fine while the rotor hat is not shedding it as fast. Sure the hub, knuckle, and wheels still become heat sinks but the reality is the rotor sheds most of the heat itself. Cool video though. They abused the hell out of that brake.