Rear Differential & Transfer Case DIY
#122
I used a generic windshield washer pump back in the day that worked great. I never see them at the parts stores anymore. Anyone know where to get one? They were like $5 and would pump right out of the bottle and fill the differential in less than a minute. I would just throw them away if they got too gummed up.
#124
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
If one of you is going to be near Bradenton, Florida, just south of Tampa, and has an AWD and is looking to do this, let me know as I might help you out in about a month or so, as I plan to leave Mexico early April.
#125
So will you have to change your handle to "LexFlorida" now.
#127
#128
Left jar is front gear oil followed by rear gear oil in center jar and comparing it to standard gl5 new oil on right. I wonder if that oil has ever been changed in the 83k that the original owner owned it. It's pretty dark. Both Front and Rear fill and drain plugs were a b---h to come off. the drain on front I used a stubby 15/16 with a thin wall 12 point, banged wrench with a rock a few times and it came loose
BTW, what's in the jars is not all the oil that came out. I just wanted to get most in there to see how nice and clean it came out, ewwww. Bought cheap tomato sauce at Walmart so that I could use the jars, they were $1 each and sauce actually smelled pretty good, almost like ragu.
BTW, what's in the jars is not all the oil that came out. I just wanted to get most in there to see how nice and clean it came out, ewwww. Bought cheap tomato sauce at Walmart so that I could use the jars, they were $1 each and sauce actually smelled pretty good, almost like ragu.
Last edited by 6.0PSD; 03-29-08 at 09:16 PM.
#129
Another shot of used oils at a closer view
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I think I finally figured out how to attach more than one pic per post. Hope it works
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I think I finally figured out how to attach more than one pic per post. Hope it works
#132
This is the last step in refilling the front gear. I had done the rear gear yesterday and did the same thing in the driveway with the ramps and car facing opposite of picture above.
Thanks to this thread that helped get the gears done right. I used cheap SuperTech Walmart gear oil as I plan to do the gears again by the end of fall 2008 and will probably use the cheap stuff again until next spring. Then I'll probably look into the synthetics.
My next project is to follow the sticky for the transmission oil draining directions.
I also have to find out if I could attach more than one pic per post.
Thanks to this thread that helped get the gears done right. I used cheap SuperTech Walmart gear oil as I plan to do the gears again by the end of fall 2008 and will probably use the cheap stuff again until next spring. Then I'll probably look into the synthetics.
My next project is to follow the sticky for the transmission oil draining directions.
I also have to find out if I could attach more than one pic per post.
#133
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Those are nice pictures. It usually quite common that the rear differential and transfer case fluids haven't been changed out before 100,000 miles if dealer maintained. I know because no such changeout was made when I did my 90K actually, an 82K. However, no harm done, as these fluids can go that long, though I generally recommend normally, at least once ever 30K miles min and max 50K miles for normal driving, though I do mine every year.
#134
Intermediate
Hi all,
I'm at 64000km and plan on doing the transfer case/rear diff fluid change.
After reading all the pages, I'm starting to get a sense of some of the tools I might need to go out and buy(suction pump/gun)
Is 10mm Allen key ok for the 3/8 plug?
I was wondering if castrol syntec is good enough. I haven't found mobil1 up here in Toronto yet.
Also, How do you all tighten the plugs back to specification when a torque wrench can't really fit in some of the places?
I'm at 64000km and plan on doing the transfer case/rear diff fluid change.
After reading all the pages, I'm starting to get a sense of some of the tools I might need to go out and buy(suction pump/gun)
Is 10mm Allen key ok for the 3/8 plug?
I was wondering if castrol syntec is good enough. I haven't found mobil1 up here in Toronto yet.
Also, How do you all tighten the plugs back to specification when a torque wrench can't really fit in some of the places?
#135
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Hi all,
I'm at 64000km and plan on doing the transfer case/rear diff fluid change.
After reading all the pages, I'm starting to get a sense of some of the tools I might need to go out and buy(suction pump/gun)
Is 10mm Allen key ok for the 3/8 plug?
I was wondering if castrol syntec is good enough. I haven't found mobil1 up here in Toronto yet.
Also, How do you all tighten the plugs back to specification when a torque wrench can't really fit in some of the places?
I'm at 64000km and plan on doing the transfer case/rear diff fluid change.
After reading all the pages, I'm starting to get a sense of some of the tools I might need to go out and buy(suction pump/gun)
Is 10mm Allen key ok for the 3/8 plug?
I was wondering if castrol syntec is good enough. I haven't found mobil1 up here in Toronto yet.
Also, How do you all tighten the plugs back to specification when a torque wrench can't really fit in some of the places?
Castrol's synthetic gear fluid will also work fine. Keep in mind that gear fluid can last a pretty long time, in fact it's the fluid that lasts the longest of anything that goes into our RX300s. I haven't had any real issue with the Pennzoil Synthetic that I put in back in Mexico and have kept using here.
I have never used the torque wrench when doing this, but generally I have found you can't really tighten it much more than say (if we used a clock as an example), from the 1 to 2 o'clock position, or maybe 75% of that. They don't have as much play in tightening them as say the tranny plugs or the oil plug.
Last edited by Lexmex; 08-07-09 at 12:44 PM.