1999 RX300 Hot Catalytic & Exhaust Power loss
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1999 RX300 Hot Catalytic & Exhaust Power loss
I have a 1999 RX300 with 160,000 miles with a hot catalytic converter, hot exhaust with no smoke, power cutting in and out after warmed up. I am assuming it is my catalytic converters. I am trying to decide which direction I want to go as far as repairing the vehicle.
If one converter is bad do I need to replace both?
Is it possible run the vehicle without either converter?
If not possible what is the best replacement converters out for the money?
Any help would be helpful.
If one converter is bad do I need to replace both?
Is it possible run the vehicle without either converter?
If not possible what is the best replacement converters out for the money?
Any help would be helpful.
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Have the code read.
By replacing the cat you may be replacing the affected part and not address the root cause.
The cat is part of the emission system and by removing a part of it, you may be braking local laws. If you need annual check up, you may be denied.
Salim
By replacing the cat you may be replacing the affected part and not address the root cause.
The cat is part of the emission system and by removing a part of it, you may be braking local laws. If you need annual check up, you may be denied.
Salim
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I have a 1999 RX300 with 160,000 miles with a hot catalytic converter, hot exhaust with no smoke, power cutting in and out after warmed up. I am assuming it is my catalytic converters. I am trying to decide which direction I want to go as far as repairing the vehicle.
If one converter is bad do I need to replace both?
Is it possible run the vehicle without either converter?
If not possible what is the best replacement converters out for the money?
Any help would be helpful.
If one converter is bad do I need to replace both?
Is it possible run the vehicle without either converter?
If not possible what is the best replacement converters out for the money?
Any help would be helpful.
The 1MZFE engine (common to both many Toyota and Lexus models) does run without precats (known as federal spec as opposed to California spec) without issue in the 5 speed first generation Toyota Solara for example. Precats are the two smaller cats up front as opposed to the bigger one underneath the vehicle. I believe however that Walker makes some aftermarket precats for the RX300. For the regular/main cat, Magnaflow is now what I use for my main cat (I had many issues with catalytic converters living south of the border given among other things the gas quality there).
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1999 RX300 Hot Catalytic & Exhaust Power loss
Thanks for the help everyone. This info is going to help me alot. I'll keep you posted on my results.
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1999 RX300 Hot Catalytic & Exhaust Power Loss
Hey guys just thought I would pass along the diagnosis for my RX. It is a OCV oil control valve. Evidently this is a common problem because their is a back oder for the factory part. It is going to be two or three weeks before I can get it. Here is a similar post from another site with symtoms identical to mine. Maybe this can help someone else out.
Paticake
View Member Profile Dec 30 2008, 08:19 PM Post #2
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Posts: 31
Joined: 25-September 07
From: Hunterdon NJ
Member No.: 53,790
Car Model:RX300
Location:NJ
I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.
Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.
Resulting codes:
Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1
OR
Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.
Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.
Code for A/F sensor as well.
Driving symptoms:
The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.
At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.
The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.
Solution:
The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.
The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.
If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.
You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.
More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.
Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.
To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).
Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.
Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.
Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.
This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.
The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).
http://www.parkplacetexas.com/Dealer...DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.
Hope this helps some out there.
Maistran.
--------------------
Thanks,
Maistran
I found this hope it helps.. You might want to do a search on the codes.
Paticake
View Member Profile Dec 30 2008, 08:19 PM Post #2
Club Member
Group: Regular Member
Posts: 31
Joined: 25-September 07
From: Hunterdon NJ
Member No.: 53,790
Car Model:RX300
Location:NJ
I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.
Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.
Resulting codes:
Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1
OR
Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.
Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.
Code for A/F sensor as well.
Driving symptoms:
The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.
At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.
The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.
Solution:
The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.
The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.
If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.
You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.
More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.
Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.
To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).
Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.
Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.
Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.
This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.
The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).
http://www.parkplacetexas.com/Dealer...DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.
Hope this helps some out there.
Maistran.
--------------------
Thanks,
Maistran
I found this hope it helps.. You might want to do a search on the codes.
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