I am not a mechanic and don't know much about engine either but I perfer to do the maintenance on my car unless it is too difficult for me or I don't know how.
One is to save money, two is to learn more about my car, three it is a used car so there will be problems and I just can't afford to take it to the dealer or a garage every time.

What about you guy?

 

I have a 92 SC300 that I took to the dealer for service for the first 4 years of ownership.....and paid the price.
I bought the service manuals and took some time to read through them. I have had a few service manuals over the years and I have to say that these are the best that I have seen. If you have the right tools...you could save yourself some $$$. I know the price for the manuals is steep, but they could pay for themselves with your first repair.

 

it's just a Toyota...
Toyota keeps its pretty simple for being an import car, IMO....

Scot

 

Has anyone done their own valve adjustment? Where did you buy the vavle adjustment tool? How much for the Factory Repair Manual?
Thanks for any advice
Dave

 

I place an order in for the Mannual, you have to get it through the dealer (I don't know how to buy it from E-Bay) Cost at the dealer $160+ tax two volume. I takes three-four weeks for delivery.

 

I do all my repairs and maintanence schedules myself. I don't trust the local dealers to do the work.

So far I have basically pulled out the whole engine out.
The tranny out twice. Once the tranny after I broke the pan and broke the valve body with a large rock that "jumped in front my way" :rollin I had to replace the whole tranny with another one. Yeap don't ask me why I kept the stock torque converter.


Engine and tranny mounts.
Changed all tranny seals.
Changed all fluids many times.
Replaced powersteering suction hose. Replaced seals at the steering rack. Replaced all the frt suspension bushings.
Changed the timing belt, water pump, all radiator hoses.
Changed alternator.
Changed spark plug cables, both caps and rotors.
Upgraded filter.
Done the brakes, completely with new rotors and pads.
Redone the exhaust.

I am working (actual prototype) on some performance stuff for my car now.

I have all 3 service manuals and the parts catalog.

I basically know everything there is to know about the SC400 and let me tell you like fast SC300 said it ain't not big deal its just a very good toyota, simple to work on. Most of the stuff I have have done is for preventive maintanence as my car has yet to hit 50,000 miles.

So how about it guy

Mind

1995 "like new" SC400

 

Toyotas are pretty simple vehicles to work on and are generally friendly to shade tree mechanics. Unlike GM with several different fastener types, most Lexus Toyota items can be easily disassembled with a philips or metric socket.

Scott Hureau

 

I bought my valve adjustment tools many years ago, so I can't remember how much, but it was quite cheap, from my recollection.

You buy it from Toyota, and there's 2 pieces to it, a nutcracker-looking device, and another piece that's like a tiny crowbar. You do need to look at the pictures in the manual to figure out how to use them though!

The tools make it a very easy job, but the valve adjustment itself is done by measuring the gap, then removing the shim in the valve bucket (very fiddly job done with tweezers and small screwdrivers), then, you buy a new shim of the appropriate thickness to insert.

It tends to be a long job because you end up tagging and measuring about 32 shims, just measuring all the shims with a vernier gauge, but from memory I don't think you can take them all out and lay them on a table, you can only take one out, measure it, then put it back. The tools keep the tappet depressed while you take out the shim, but if you remove the tool, then the tappet might press up on the cam lobe and mark it.

Then you buy a couple of shims, and swap them around as need be (I used a spreadsheet to tell me what to do). That way you just end up buying a couple of shims, rather than a full set.

But in my experience, the Toyota motors are just fantastically well made, and even on a 100,000mile motor, the valve clearances have been within tolerance. On a low mileage motor, the gaps are right in the middle of factory tolerance, so I guess that's why they won't need adjusting for a long time....

 

Has anyone tried changing the timing belt? I have a 95 400 and curious if I should even attempt this.

I was able to replace the power steering pump without too much problem.

 

Look, it depends on your mechanical ability, tools, and information.

The job in my opinion is not easy, but not impossible. I managed to do it because I am extremely good at it (actually I used to work as a tech) I am also very mechanically inclined. Tools are just your essential tools but you do need to have the correct ones. Also I suggest you purchase the engine manual as there are some pretty important torque specs and belt positioning tips.

I don't think this job should be taken on by an unexperienced mechanic so much less by a DIY mechanic.

Depending on milage I suggest to replace the water pump at the same time since it involves removing most of the front components giving access to the water pump housing.

Mind

 

just make sure you add a couple hours of **** up time...you know like: losing bolts/nuts down some where dark in the engine, finding out you got the wrong part to install and the parts place just closed, stripping nuts and or bolts(profanity is common if this happens), finding out what you THOUGHT was the problem really wasn't, breaks for back aches, physical damage caused by slipping wreches and screw drivers and or cutting devices....trust me I know.

Scot hail
93 SC300