Any bondo advice before I start>?
06-30-04, 04:57 PM
#1
Any bondo advice before I start>?
Guys,
About to re-do my center console area. I removed the "brushed aluminum" as I hear it is called, although I prefer the term "plastic crap."
The interior was previously tan/beige and then done black, but I guess to save the trouble, it was just covered instead of redone black.
However, the plastic is rough and has some screw holes etc, not to mention I am going to fill the useless cup holder hole. So, bondo time.
I have not had a lot of experience with bondo work so any advice before I start would be appreciated. I meant to do a before and after photo but I got too carried away and started.
Will keep the progress updated but any advice is accepted!!
Peace,
jonny
About to re-do my center console area. I removed the "brushed aluminum" as I hear it is called, although I prefer the term "plastic crap."
The interior was previously tan/beige and then done black, but I guess to save the trouble, it was just covered instead of redone black.
However, the plastic is rough and has some screw holes etc, not to mention I am going to fill the useless cup holder hole. So, bondo time.
I have not had a lot of experience with bondo work so any advice before I start would be appreciated. I meant to do a before and after photo but I got too carried away and started.
Will keep the progress updated but any advice is accepted!!
Peace,
jonny
06-30-04, 09:28 PM
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I'm no expert, but I do have a few tips on working with body filler:
1. The stuff is hardened with a catalyst that you have to mix in with the base material. The ratio is about a golf ball of base to a large pea sized amount of catalyst. That is not an exact ratio, but it's pretty close. Once you get used to working with a particular brand of filler, you'll do it by the color of the mix. Too much catalyst will shorten your working time.
2. When you mix the catalyst and base, try not to introduce too much air into the mixture. You need an even mix, but try to fold it together so you don't create air bubbles.
3. You'll want some of the little flexible plastic spatulas that they sell for working with this stuff. Once it hardens, just flex the spatula and the body filler will pop off. It's a good idea to use a piece of cardboard to mix it on and just plan on throwing that away. The spatulas, on the other hand, will last longer than you need them to. If you figure out something useful to do with them, let me know.
4. Layer on thin coats. Don't try to put one big thick coat on all at once. On the same note, don't mix up too much at one time. It's just a waste.
5. Because it's a catalytic reaction, it will get warm as it hardens. There's no real good reason for mentioning that other than it's an interesting byproduct of the whole thing.
I hope that helps and good luck with your project,
Wiley
1. The stuff is hardened with a catalyst that you have to mix in with the base material. The ratio is about a golf ball of base to a large pea sized amount of catalyst. That is not an exact ratio, but it's pretty close. Once you get used to working with a particular brand of filler, you'll do it by the color of the mix. Too much catalyst will shorten your working time.
2. When you mix the catalyst and base, try not to introduce too much air into the mixture. You need an even mix, but try to fold it together so you don't create air bubbles.
3. You'll want some of the little flexible plastic spatulas that they sell for working with this stuff. Once it hardens, just flex the spatula and the body filler will pop off. It's a good idea to use a piece of cardboard to mix it on and just plan on throwing that away. The spatulas, on the other hand, will last longer than you need them to. If you figure out something useful to do with them, let me know.
4. Layer on thin coats. Don't try to put one big thick coat on all at once. On the same note, don't mix up too much at one time. It's just a waste.
5. Because it's a catalytic reaction, it will get warm as it hardens. There's no real good reason for mentioning that other than it's an interesting byproduct of the whole thing.
I hope that helps and good luck with your project,
Wiley
06-30-04, 11:08 PM
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Just to save time...
Here is a little trick I use to save time, Put some masking tape behind the hole, This way your not filling in so much bondo... For example if your filling in the hole for the radio power/volume **** put a peice of masking tape behind the whole hole then fill it a little more than flush so you can sand it down and it will be perfectly smooth... Good luck buddy.. Post pics if you can... Oh, and don't worry about removing the tape from the other side because it won't be visible but if you must then before you apply bondo put aluminum foil over the tape part that is exposed and it will be much easier to remove..... Bryan
07-01-04, 09:50 AM
#6
All excellent advice guys - much appreciated!!
Lex - I was going to buy a new one but I figured this would be a good a time as any to start working with something new - the possibilities!!!
I am planning on starting within the next couple of days and I will so I will take some pics.
Some advice for filling the cupholder hole. Instead of trying to fill that huge gap full of Bondo, go to a Home Depot and get the crack filler foam. I don't remember it's name - costs $4.97 here and is in a red bottle. It is a foam that hardens and can be sanded. To do it, put some tape over the cupholder hole, and cut a small hole where you will put the spout of the foam. This stuff comes out kinda crazy so this may save it from going everywhere.
Good luck guys and I will keep you posted.
Peace,
jonny
Lex - I was going to buy a new one but I figured this would be a good a time as any to start working with something new - the possibilities!!!
I am planning on starting within the next couple of days and I will so I will take some pics.
Some advice for filling the cupholder hole. Instead of trying to fill that huge gap full of Bondo, go to a Home Depot and get the crack filler foam. I don't remember it's name - costs $4.97 here and is in a red bottle. It is a foam that hardens and can be sanded. To do it, put some tape over the cupholder hole, and cut a small hole where you will put the spout of the foam. This stuff comes out kinda crazy so this may save it from going everywhere.
Good luck guys and I will keep you posted.
Peace,
jonny
07-01-04, 11:54 AM
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You might want to consider fiberglass for the larger holes. Fiberglass is considerably stronger than bondo.
Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with as well. Basically you mix the fiberglass resin with a little bit of harder, then soak sheets of fiberglass mat in it.
Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with as well. Basically you mix the fiberglass resin with a little bit of harder, then soak sheets of fiberglass mat in it.
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07-02-04, 05:06 AM
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i personally think bondo was easier to work with...and it doesn't give off as much fumes...as long as the part doesn't need that much rigidity, it should be okay...
the thing to remember is that sanding is the most important...cause if you screw up, just plop on more and then sand that...i actually used some cardboard as backing...mask it on with tape like they mentioned and slap the bondo on top...let dry like 15 min...sand...if there are holes, slap more on...sand...
the thing to remember is that sanding is the most important...cause if you screw up, just plop on more and then sand that...i actually used some cardboard as backing...mask it on with tape like they mentioned and slap the bondo on top...let dry like 15 min...sand...if there are holes, slap more on...sand...
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