Heat from the firewall entering cabin
08-10-07, 11:06 PM
#63
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rust!
Blue92,
That is sad. To get rust coming out of the coolant you must be running straight water. With all the aluminum parts in the cooling system you are commiting "sideways". I think the heater core is alum. and it disolves in plain water....litterally. To get that core out you will go to hell and back.
Your heater control valve is shot. Replace it! But first, flush you cooling system. Most people ruin their water pump with that flush stuff because they don't get it all rinsed out and I mean ALL OUT. After the flush rinse by getting the engine warm with a refill of water. Block the rad and run the heater. Drain the rad and the block(both sides) and fill and warm till the thermostat opens and run the heater. You have to do this at least three times and on the fourth run som of the water into you hand and see if it feels "slipery". If so "flush on". After that refill with antifreeze and pray. Best I can tell you.
On second thought: replace the heater control valve "before you do the flush cause you need the valve working to get the entire system rinsed and leaving flush stuff in nthe heater system will cause your water pump to fail.
Lex NEVER made a car that "cooked" the driver. Never! You have a problem and that means you have a solution. If there is no solution it isn't a problem, it is reality. And an uncomfortable Lex pilot BY DESIGN is not a reality. I think you are experiencing a heater control valve malfunction. If you can't figure this thing out go see the expert....Lex shop..indepemdent or dealer. An hours time will cost you $75 and you will know what you have to do and what it will cost to have someone else do it. They may diagnose it for free.
In the words of the hip....CHILL.
Hope this helps
John
That is sad. To get rust coming out of the coolant you must be running straight water. With all the aluminum parts in the cooling system you are commiting "sideways". I think the heater core is alum. and it disolves in plain water....litterally. To get that core out you will go to hell and back.
Your heater control valve is shot. Replace it! But first, flush you cooling system. Most people ruin their water pump with that flush stuff because they don't get it all rinsed out and I mean ALL OUT. After the flush rinse by getting the engine warm with a refill of water. Block the rad and run the heater. Drain the rad and the block(both sides) and fill and warm till the thermostat opens and run the heater. You have to do this at least three times and on the fourth run som of the water into you hand and see if it feels "slipery". If so "flush on". After that refill with antifreeze and pray. Best I can tell you.
On second thought: replace the heater control valve "before you do the flush cause you need the valve working to get the entire system rinsed and leaving flush stuff in nthe heater system will cause your water pump to fail.
Lex NEVER made a car that "cooked" the driver. Never! You have a problem and that means you have a solution. If there is no solution it isn't a problem, it is reality. And an uncomfortable Lex pilot BY DESIGN is not a reality. I think you are experiencing a heater control valve malfunction. If you can't figure this thing out go see the expert....Lex shop..indepemdent or dealer. An hours time will cost you $75 and you will know what you have to do and what it will cost to have someone else do it. They may diagnose it for free.
In the words of the hip....CHILL.
Hope this helps
John
Last edited by JohnEd; 08-11-07 at 10:08 PM.
09-15-07, 09:05 AM
#65
See that metal rod under it? It connects to the unit and moves via the hydraulic action inside the cylinder. Simply remove the arm from the dome and manually move the latch on the bottom of the heater control valve. Turn your heat on in your car and if you do not feel heat after doing this, you are set and ready! Give it a few minutes to cool down since there is still heat in the core, letting the car sit a while is a good idea too just to be sure.
09-29-07, 10:23 PM
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heat problem
704,
Dosconnecting the rod/actuating shaft may do nothing if the valve is rusted away. Also, you may not be able to get it to move. Replace the valve as it is shot for sure.
HTH,
John
Dosconnecting the rod/actuating shaft may do nothing if the valve is rusted away. Also, you may not be able to get it to move. Replace the valve as it is shot for sure.
HTH,
John
03-17-09, 04:50 PM
#67
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Ok, I don't know about you guys but the heat is coming thru the vents so I don't think insulating the firewall will help me and ima try the a.c. Thing later and c if it works but has anyone come up with something else?
04-09-09, 09:18 AM
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I recently just got an 93 sc300 and i am experiencing the same problem. Even when I turn on the ac it seems like the valve is stuck even though I can move it by hand. When the A/C is on it does not blow completely cold. I even put new freon in the system but the mechanic said the valve seems to be stuck and because of that the Heat will always overide the cold. So therefore I need to fix this problem ASAP! Summers in S.Florida are no joke 
04-09-09, 01:20 PM
#71
I noticed the heat issue last summer too, but it feels like it is coming from the transmission area since only the side of my leg feels like it is burning.
04-09-09, 02:06 PM
#72
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I have the same problem.........call me crazy but I always thought it was coming from my monitor and dvd player....because it was not a double din unit.........I guest this is what a forum if for......lol
