SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Damnnnnnnnn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old 04-11-01, 04:13 PM
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The Ikon
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I'VE JUST F#@KED UP REALLY BAD!!!!!!! IN SEARCH OF BRIGHTER PARK LIGHTS, I CHANGED THE PARK LIGHT BULBS FOR A HIGHER WATTAGE BULB "FAT HEAD" POLARG BULB(FROM 5 TO 17 WATTS I THINK) IT BURNED THE DAMN PARK LIGHT ROUND GLOBE PART. I THOUGHT IT WOULD JUST BLOW OUT OR THROW A FUSE, THEN ON TOP OF THAT I TRIED TO CLEAN IT WITH A LONG Q TIP AND IT PUSHED THE GLOBE PEICE INTO THE HOUSING....... I KNOW, I KNOW ...

DON'T USE THESE BULBS IN YOUR SC3 OR SC4! LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE, KEEP THE ORIGINAL SIZE HEAD ON THE BULB AND GET A SUPER WHITE TYPE OF BULB...

THE QUESTION I HAVE NOW IS HOW TO TAKE OFF THE HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY(DRIVERS SIDE) AND CAN YOU TAKE THE LENS PART OFF TO GET INTO THE ASSEMBLY???
I'VE TAKEN THE TOP SCREW OUT, IS THERE SCREWS UNDERNEATH???

PLEASE HELP!!!

Last edited by The Ikon; 10-23-01 at 09:24 AM.
Old 04-11-01, 04:28 PM
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reLEXin247
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I think you're missing the one nut inside the fender well. If you pull back the inner plastic fender cover you can reach inside the fender and pull out a single 10mm nut (I'm pretty sure that's the right size) and the headlight will come right out... Just make sure you pull out the headlight slowly, it's easy to scratch the top of the front bumper area with the headlight. When you actually get the light out, it is possible to pull the whole front lens off the light assembly, but you will need a heat gun and lots of time. I suggest heating the edge of the housing on the low setting on a heatgun and gently pull the housing apart. I've done it before and trust me it's not any fun. Well good luck.

Scott
Old 04-11-01, 04:35 PM
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The Ikon
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Default thanks a million...

Did it seal back ok, without the moisture?

Also, what did you use to seal it back???

As for time 2,3,4,5, hours???

Thanks a Zillion...
Old 04-11-01, 04:38 PM
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reLEXin247
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I used standard clear silicone to reseal the lights and haven't had any problems with moisture... Also while i was inside the light I polished the inside of the lens with plexi polish. it made the lights look brand new. It took me about 3 hours per light to take out, take apart, polish, reseal, and reinstall.
Old 04-11-01, 04:47 PM
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The Ikon
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Arrow ***************

Thanks again... I'm headed out to tackle this with my

brother... I'll let you know the out come...
Old 04-12-01, 12:58 AM
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The Ikon
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Post Don't buy hi-watt park lights w/large bulb...

I got the unit out... Inside the fender well it's actually 2 nuts and they are 10mm as you said.

FYI use an extension on your ratchet to break the nuts, then use your hand to screw off the nuts... it's simpler.

As a precaution I placed a towel under the lamp to prevent scratching referred too above... My heat gun does not have a low setting, therefore I'm waiting to buy one in the morn with a low setting, so I will not melt anything else!!!

Any other suggestion, I'm opened!!!

Last edited by The Ikon; 04-12-01 at 01:00 AM.
Old 04-22-01, 10:50 AM
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The Ikon
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Thumbs up Whewwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!

That was a long and tedious job... Easy but tedious!!! This is for all of you other SC owners that are attempting this feat., either to prevent moisture(just reseal all around the housing with silicone..DO NOT DISASSEMBLE, fix the same problem I had, or to achieve those like new crystal clear lenses...

Take your time and make sure to seal THE ENTIRE area of the housing to prevent moisture.

USE GLOVES.. I also polished the lens inside and out(MAKE SURE ALL OF THE POLISH IS OFF AND ANY SMEARS, OR FINGER PRINTS ARE OFF!!!). For those without any problems polish your lens front/rear once a month anyway... I've been using the plexi glass/ plastic polish every since I owned my 300ZX. Also use a good glass cleaner on the "chrome" plastic housing with a soft lint free cloth.. REMEMBER whatever you leave on the surface of in the unit will show up and you do not want to repeat this procedure for a simple mistake...

When resealing the lens/housing make sure the seal is in the grove is tight and snug, to prevent improper alignment of the headlight ***. once re-installed.

The drivers headlight looks 50% nicer than the passenger side; therefore, I must undertake the journey again as I watch a movie with the wife...

This method saved me $400 per side and the few hours spent was worth it. The light looks as good as new again...

MOST IMPORTANTLY DON'T USE HI-WATTAGE BULBS, ESPECIALLY WITH THE LARGER BULB HEAD!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks RELEXIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE IKON

Last edited by The Ikon; 04-25-01 at 12:36 PM.
Old 04-22-01, 11:57 AM
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reLEXin247
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I'm glad to hear it came out ok IKON. I know it's a very long process and sounds like you've really got it down to a science, but like you said, It's really worth it. I'd rather spend some spare time doing that then filling my lexus dealer's pockets even more than they are already


Old 04-23-01, 11:23 PM
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wolfy187
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Default Ikon

hey ikon want to email you can't do it fromt he sight. wierd

email me

wolfy187@aol.com

arthur
Old 04-23-01, 11:35 PM
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The Ikon
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Default Email address.....

TheIkon1911@yahoo.com ..........

Check this out!!! This Supra site has some wonderful info.... Here is some pic on the headlight/len removal procedure...The same as Relexin procedure except, chose 1, the oven vs the heat gun... heads or tails...

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/headlights/index.html

The site is filled with info that we as SC owners can use... www.mkiv.com

Old 04-24-01, 12:44 AM
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The Ikon
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Question pro or con.....

Relexin, what is your opinion of oven heating??? It appears to be risky to me, but I guess you can take it slow, and it is probably faster than the heat gun....
Old 04-24-01, 01:02 AM
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Toan Nguyen
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Talking Yup... or....


Somthing that also works is a hairdryer. The results are well worth the time and effort. PS. only if you have a good hairdryer... some hairdryers cut out aften.

Cheers,

Toan.
Old 04-24-01, 06:36 AM
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reLEXin247
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I don't know about the whole oven thing. Looks like it works alright, but i'll stick to the heat gun... at least that way if it starts to melt the plastic i'll be able to easily tell and stop it instead of leaving the headlight in there to become a nice gooey puddle. lol But the rest of the info on that page is really good, looks like they have it down to a science. Thanks for the link.


Old 04-24-01, 11:29 AM
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The Ikon
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Post you've got mail

Wolfy...

I sent that info to your email address, did you get it..? I hope it helped.. Once you finish, post your out come on the forum.... Also save and post the directions I gave you on this thread... I forgot to print it and post it on the forum...... TIA

Ikon
Old 04-25-01, 12:44 PM
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The Ikon
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Thumbs up save 1/2 the time.....

I finally did the other side and I used the method on the www.MKIV.com web site, using the oven... It works PERFECTLY, and cut the time down by 1 1/2 hours...

I put the entire light in the oven(electric) set at 175 degrees for 8 minutes,,, removed and quickly started the prying away the light from the housing using a butter knife. (I started at the bottom) I just followed Relexin's first direction and bling!!!!! Another tight light!!!

Ikon


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