SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

??? COOLANT/RADIATOR Question ???

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Old 05-17-01, 02:57 PM
  #16  
RealMarty
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Originally posted by The Ikon

When I get home later, I will try what "Webgod" suggested. Webgod, Marty, Lextek, anyone who knows this simple test... what will be the point of holding the hood up, on a SC you can hold the rag in the front of the radiator/condenser thru the lower grill area? Or am I missing something?
Holding the hood up doesn't matter if you can get the rag to the front of the radiator. But, if you can lift the hood and see the fan turning inside the shroud there's probably no need to do this rag test since it's a test to see if the fan is turning and is pulling air in through the radiator.
Old 05-18-01, 02:50 PM
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The Ikon
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I called around for radiator repair shops. The price for them to prof. clean is $50-60 buck if the radiator is out and $120-140 if they have to remove it...

How hard is it to remove? Any one with work shop manuals or exp.?
Old 05-20-01, 06:23 PM
  #18  
TRE
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I just flushed mine twice and it runs fine now. I have not noticed any more high temperatures.
Old 05-21-01, 05:09 AM
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Ikon,
I would flush it again before taking the radiator out for cleaning. Did your radiator run hot before you did the flush?
Old 05-21-01, 06:08 AM
  #20  
The Ikon
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Unhappy

It ran high on one occasion. The I changed and used an engine flush and it was okay.(I thought... )

A few days ago that's when I noticed the temp getting higher than normal. The all of a sudden it was normal again indicating it may be clogging again or something.

My wife and I went to around to check out a few shops and all of a sudden I looked over. The temp had shot to the red line and some of the coolant had boiled over ..some steam... I parked the car for about 15 minutes and drove it home the temp went up and down immediately.

Nearing home it was rising slightly above normal, and I parked it there .

This morning I just came from outside to check the car. Reservoir, oil, hoses and listen for any RATTLES or KNOCKS! (my biggest FEAR.. my wife's car was run hot and had to replace the Heads...) The car after about 8 minutes started to run high after I went for a small test run. I stopped that immediately. I do not want to mess up anything! I will flush it out once again today or tomorrow.

Should I change my thermostat again? Could it get blocked from this if it is clogged again? Wouldn't the check engine light come on if it get to hot, because it did not?

Thomas

Last edited by The Ikon; 05-21-01 at 06:34 AM.
Old 05-21-01, 07:51 AM
  #21  
VQT
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Its' a good idea to check the thermostat while you take it out. I'll check again tonight on how to check the thermostat, I guess for now check it at 80 Degree C, then 90...
I read the 93 shop manual and it did not say anything else except after fill the coolant up you need to open the heater valve to bleed the system (don't know what h*$l is the heater valve, maybe it means to turn the heater to max).
As for taking the radiator off, you need to do it yourself, I don't trust anyone else to do it. $60 to flush is not bad at all.
E-mail me your Fax no., and I'll make copy of the procedures on how to take the radiator off.

Good luck,

Last edited by VQT; 05-21-01 at 08:55 AM.
Old 05-21-01, 08:04 AM
  #22  
The Ikon
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Fax # in your private message.

send as soon as you can.... Thanks!!!

Last edited by The Ikon; 05-21-01 at 08:10 AM.
Old 05-22-01, 08:53 AM
  #23  
The Ikon
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Thanks "VQT"... for the instructions you faxed!!! This is truly what I needed!

Bangbang, I got your email too thanks...

Thomas

Last edited by The Ikon; 05-22-01 at 08:56 AM.
Old 05-22-01, 08:59 AM
  #24  
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Old 05-31-01, 07:43 AM
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Default Update?

Ikon,

So, what happen?
What did you do?
Is it running cooler?
Did you have to take the radiator out?
Old 05-31-01, 09:58 AM
  #26  
The Ikon
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Hi VQT,

I took the radiator out via the instructions you sent me... Thanks

I had it "rodded" out by the radiator guys..(The radiator not ME!!!)

I just got around to putting it back in w/new hoses and so far so good. I am getting the water pump changed next week plus getting the valves adjusted to make sure all the bases are covered.


Thanks again,

Thomas "The Ikon"
Old 06-01-01, 04:56 AM
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VQT
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How hard was it, and how long did it take you to take it out? I mean how many beers for that job

The labor cost for chaning the water pump is the same as chaning the timing belt, since it is close to each other. If you did not change the timing belt yet, now is the good time to do it also. (save on labor for timing belt later)

That's what I am going to do this month, changing the timing belt and water pump at the same time

Have you check out the other site for your other car yet they're great
Old 07-01-01, 09:07 PM
  #28  
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"Whitmanpc1" I noticed you needed some information on overheating so I dug up this thread for ya!
Old 05-31-02, 12:06 PM
  #29  
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Question coolant level sensor in the reservoir

Originally posted by mindflux
95 radiator fits 92 perfectly...only difference is the coolant level sensor in the reservoir in the 92, 95 do not have it.

Mind
Mind, I have a 91 ls400, that has small coolant leaking at the sensor wires (where they meet the rubber, into the reservoir), underneath the plastic cap. Any suggestion to how to fit this problem? Can I use supper glue, or some kinds of glue to plug this leaks? I don't want to replace the whole sensor system. (This leak does not cause the engine to get hot, temp gauge shown at 2nd level on the Cool side, just lost the coolant to lower level).
Old 05-31-02, 01:09 PM
  #30  
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Question Might I chime in with the question: when does the engine need flushing?

I've had my '92 SC400 for 5 years now, have put 30K on it, and have yet the change the coolant solution.

The solution still looks green- not as bright as that day-glo flourescent green of new anti-freeze, but not as dark as that olive-drab corderoy green that Darthmouth freshmen wear, either.

So what's the test to determine that the coolant solution is shot, and should be flushed/replaced?


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