sc400

Seems like the various dealers are asking around $1K for the brake job which consists of replacing the brake pads and resurfacing the rotors.

I'm thinking of doing this myself. Who has done this before? anything I should be watching out for?

Thanks,

James

ACleanSC4

iTrader: (7)

I'm auctioning some new drilled/slotted rotors for the SC right now and the starting bid is at $255 + shipping for all 4 rotors.
Check out my auctions on eBay my ID is "ACleanSC4"

I have these drilled/slotted rotors on my car and i've sold them to ES and GS owners before and look very nice if you have rims.

Private message me if you want get these,
Tony

VQT

Do you have tools? It's not that hard
I would buy a shop manual first should cost about $100 if you know a mechanic to order it for you. Else $160 at the dealer.
Resurface rotor $5-$10 each (if the rotor needed resurface) don't have to if the rotor still look flat, at any local garage. Pads depend on where you buy, has to be much less than $180 for all four. Various brake parts to replace, $25.
Total estimat is you do it yourself, less than $250 for parts and your are replacing more than the shop that quote you $1K for it (they never replace everything, just pads and resurface rotor if needed)
You'll be surprise how simple it is to replace pads. Taking the rotors out to resurface are a little more work, but if you don't try you never learn.

mdfdsc300

I did my pads. The rotors were in good shape so I didn't need to take them out and resurface them. It is pretty straightforward. You might need a wood block or soft hammer to knock the caliper loose. Also a c-clamp or one of those caliper clamps you can get at any auto store. 2 10mm bolts to take the calipers off. Keep track of the spring tensioners for the pads.
The dealer charges big $$$ b/c they really don't want to do it.

The Ikon

:eek: Do it your self, it's easy!!! Get a buddy, wife, son, or daughter to help you and it's extremely easy...

whitediamond

Always turn the rotors when replacing pads. Cars stop from friction between the surface of the pads and the rotor. Once the pads are wore, the rotor surface is no longer perfectly straight so they must be turned to be "true". Flat on Flat. Other wise your placing new FLAT pads on a uneven surface and your brakes will have to work harder and will get much hotter resulting in a multitude of problems such as glazing,squeeling, longer stops, etc.... Running your hands over a rotor to see if it is flat is not the way to go. There is no such thing as a true rotor after it has been used. Brakes will always wear a rotor unevenly even if it cannot be felt by hand. Many "think" that putting new pads on their car will result in the pad to "blend" into the rotor surface after a while. In the meantime your overheating the brakes and creating hot spots on the rotor. Remember it took the brake pads 20k+ miles to wear down , the blending in theory just does not work. Turn them always.

sc400

Thanks all for the tips. This is one of the reasons why I like this forum I get to learn much from you guys.

I thought I only need to buy the brake pads. What are the other various brake parts that you mentioned VQT?

James

SCV8

Sometimes the pistons will get a buil-up of residue on them under the rubber dust boots that should be removed before you shove them back into the caliper and install the pads .
Not doing this can allow the pistons to hang up and wear out pads rapidly.
Snap-On makes a nice set of O-ring installation tools that would work to help get the rubber dust seals out without damage,then some brake cleaner should be all you need to clean anything left behind from all the years of use.

PERRYinLA

I have always changed my brake pads on every car I owned, but this might be the last time. My biggest problem was re-inserting the expansion springs/clips- it was impossible! There is almost no clearance once the new pads are in. I gave up. If there is some secret trick to re-inserting them, I'd love to know. This might be sour grapes talking, but I don't think they are really necessary, anyway. I only did the rears- I still have to do the fronts, which I am not looking forward to. I'll be painting the calipers at the same time.

EDIT: I finally got around to replacing the front pads, and for some reason those springs I refer to above are much easier to re-insert in the front.

933005spd

Yeah, the brakes are easy. The dang clips were a bear. the first one was easy, the second I could not get back in either so I said heck with it also. It's been a while so I guess it didn't mess things up bad.

Anyway, I am looking for the TT brake upgrade soon.

VQT

Like all the guys say, Toyota call it Brake hardware, you need to buy new sliding pins and clips. I haven't change the clips myself yet so I don't know how hard it is like PerryinLA experience. You do need to replace the sliding pins though.