Where can I get C.F Hood?
08-12-01, 02:33 AM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
The biggest problem with the SC hood is that it is too wide, wider than the normal roll of CF.
These shops quoting you these things haven't taken that into consideration. Go measure your hood width and see if they are willing to help you anymore. They will tell you to take a hike (and probably in a rude manner). Rude bastards!!!
I already have a mold for the 92-00 SC and made O-N-E CF hood - nobody seems serious enough to have any more made!
If anyone out there is deadly serious, step up and let me know and we'll see what kind of time/pricing can be done.
Todd M.
todd@tmengineering.net
These shops quoting you these things haven't taken that into consideration. Go measure your hood width and see if they are willing to help you anymore. They will tell you to take a hike (and probably in a rude manner). Rude bastards!!!
I already have a mold for the 92-00 SC and made O-N-E CF hood - nobody seems serious enough to have any more made!
If anyone out there is deadly serious, step up and let me know and we'll see what kind of time/pricing can be done.
Todd M.
todd@tmengineering.net
08-12-01, 01:47 PM
#17
Pole Position
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Hmm....
Has anyone thought about doing a DIY fibreglass hood? Fibreglass seems heaps easier to apply as it comes in a bottle and spread as you need. As far as I know, all you require is the fibreglass resin and fibreglass catalyst (resin hardener). All it needs is a material backing, so you can possibly use baking paper (to protect your original hood) layered in sheets on top of your existing hood, then stretch a layer of material over that (base). Then pour the fibreflass resin over top and spread evenly. Fibreglass resin and catalyst cost about AUS$50? and I'm sure a roll of material (something non flamable) shouldnt cost much either. The only problems would then be mounting on existing brackets and the even-ness of the fibreglass spread. The mounting brackets could be solved by having the top done first, and when finnished, flip the hood, and get the existing frame support, place it on, and then fibreglass it tight with extra fibreglass at points where the original hood was bolted down.
After that, just sand it down to make it more even and then spray it black. It would take at least a day to do with 2 people.
If you want bonnet vents, use wooden moulds with material ovelay sitting on top of bonnet before you lay the fibreflass on.
Overall cost would be heaps cheaper, and more individual. Just takes time and patience for a good result.
That's just my thoughts. I'm on a limited budget, so cant really afford things custom made unless I do it myself.
Cheers,
Toan.
08-12-01, 08:44 PM
#18
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2001
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glassing
The fibreglass hood is a good Idea, a lot cheaper then the carbon, and paintable too.
Here are a few things to remember.
If to are going to go with the hood, please remember that your factory hood is designed to buckle under impact. If the fibreglass hood is processed (made) incorrectly in a frontal crash you may be decapitated. Fibreglass will not dent and will crack or shatter under extremes of heat and cold, especially if it is impacted.
If you go the route of making your own hood, practice first, I cannot stress this enough, because a small piece of fibreglass is easier and cheaper to mess up then a big piece. Here are a few tips when working with fibreglass:
- Use tinfoil or wax paper to make your mould, make sure everything is airtight or you will glass everything that the resin touches.
- Where garbage clothing, rubber gloves, and work in a very well ventilated room, about room temp.
- Start with cloth first and then use a mat, after the cloth has dried and you begin to use the mat, be generous with the resin.
- After you are finished making the mould, make sure to use a very non stick separating part between the mould and the project.
- Make a aluminium about 1/8 on an inch frame, drilled out for light weight, as to mount the brackets and locking piece to, this is optional but in the long run this hood will be much more effective. This is very easy to graft into the hood as you are making it.
- Remember to etch you hood so that it will buckle and shatter and not be forced back onto you in instance of a collision.
- Lastly have lots of time, patience and sandpaper, before you start.
- Start with the smooth top piece of the hood, this includes making the mould.
Oh and one more thing, if your tinkering dexterity is good, this is a project for you, if not then pay someone to do it. You will find everything you need and a good local marine shop, and they know the stuff well, so be honest with them. Finally if you are going to take this on, please do some reading and fair amount for practicing, because this may be the hardest thing you can imagine if you don’t become accustomed to the characteristics of fibreglass. I work with this stuff a lot so trust me on this!
Do it slow and do it right.
Here are a few things to remember.
If to are going to go with the hood, please remember that your factory hood is designed to buckle under impact. If the fibreglass hood is processed (made) incorrectly in a frontal crash you may be decapitated. Fibreglass will not dent and will crack or shatter under extremes of heat and cold, especially if it is impacted.
If you go the route of making your own hood, practice first, I cannot stress this enough, because a small piece of fibreglass is easier and cheaper to mess up then a big piece. Here are a few tips when working with fibreglass:
- Use tinfoil or wax paper to make your mould, make sure everything is airtight or you will glass everything that the resin touches.
- Where garbage clothing, rubber gloves, and work in a very well ventilated room, about room temp.
- Start with cloth first and then use a mat, after the cloth has dried and you begin to use the mat, be generous with the resin.
- After you are finished making the mould, make sure to use a very non stick separating part between the mould and the project.
- Make a aluminium about 1/8 on an inch frame, drilled out for light weight, as to mount the brackets and locking piece to, this is optional but in the long run this hood will be much more effective. This is very easy to graft into the hood as you are making it.
- Remember to etch you hood so that it will buckle and shatter and not be forced back onto you in instance of a collision.
- Lastly have lots of time, patience and sandpaper, before you start.
- Start with the smooth top piece of the hood, this includes making the mould.
Oh and one more thing, if your tinkering dexterity is good, this is a project for you, if not then pay someone to do it. You will find everything you need and a good local marine shop, and they know the stuff well, so be honest with them. Finally if you are going to take this on, please do some reading and fair amount for practicing, because this may be the hardest thing you can imagine if you don’t become accustomed to the characteristics of fibreglass. I work with this stuff a lot so trust me on this!
Do it slow and do it right.
08-12-01, 10:17 PM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: los angeles
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this sux!!!
hey doublewhoosh i was curious if u have any spare c.f. hoods for the sc that u would be willing to part w/....or if u kno anyone that would use ur molding to custom make some more for the people on the forums...i am in the los angeles area and everyone i went to, gave me incredibly high prices :eek:
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