posterboi

Trouble Spots

Audio system: Because the radio antenna is not properly grounded, weak AM stations have static whenever another electrical device, such as wipers or turn signals, are used. (1992-94)

Automatic transmission: The car may not upshift, downshift, or may start in the wrong gear on electronically shifted transmissions due to a faulty ground circuit. (1992)

Check-engine light: The check-engine light may come on because of a problem with the fuel vapor emissions system. (1995-00)

Dashboard lights: A defective EVAP (evaporative emissions control) system charcoal canister causes the check-engine light to glow. Both new car and emissions controls warranties apply. (1997-98)

Dashboard lights: Due to a problem in the printed circuit, outside temperature reading may report -22F. Removing the fuse for 30 seconds should reset the system. (1995-96)

Doors: Defective hinges cause a popping noise when the front doors are opened. Revised hinges are available. (1992-94)

Keyless entry: The screw that holds the battery cover in place on the key transmitter falls out. (1992-95)

Oil consumption: Excessive oil consumption caused by sludge buildup on the cylinder heads. Company is extending warranty. (1993-00)

Suspension noise: Popping, clunking, or rattling noises from the rear are often due to a loose retaining nut on the support. (1992-94)

and only one recall....

NHTSA Recall History

1996-97: Improper assembly of terminal for starter-motor switch can cause a short circuit.

iasc300

iTrader: (1)

good info- where you find all that at?

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing google, the text is mirrored across several sites like this one

http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/U...ewreliability/

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search

Make sure to also read Lex400sc's writeup if you're looking for common problems and fixes
http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html#03

posterboi

goodwork DaveGS4!!

BLK13X

This could be an interesting thread. I reckon everyone should post up what year model there car is and what they have come across (just a suggestion)... don't forget the year model and mileage.


My experience with troubles...

1993 Soarer 2.5GT-TL - 198xxx kms when sold
Suspension Noises: Mostly due to the car being on stock shocks and Espelir springs... can't really complain but the car used to bottom out sometimes too. DHS rear lower control arm also gave way (threaded the ball joint).
Bushes and Mounts: Engine and gearbox mounts were crushed, never got around to fixing them. Funny though, my original bushes were still doing their thing and didn't need replacing when I sold the car.
Electrical Ghost: Bloody thing kept my car off the road for over 3 weeks.
Blown Turbo: Blew the rear turbo, just a sign of old age really
Interior Cracks: The usual cracks on the lower door trims (around the speaker covers) and on the A/C vents.
Blown Gearbox: I really don't know how this came around, either to a lack of maintenance or heat. Never got around to fixing it.

1997 Soarer 2.5GT-L - 60xxx kms
A/C Vent Crack: The usual aircon vent crack
Dead CD Player: The stock Soarer CD player skips to buggery so I'm replacing it with an Alpine head unit, just need to nut out the wiring to the factory amps.



Jose

sc.Fred

so does this mean that i can go to the dealership and get it fixed?

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

yea..... exactly how much oil consumption is TOO much consumption?

I'm estimating i eat up about 1 full quart between oil changes

totrider

Good info indeed. so far mines ok.

Psionic

I read that and immediately thought of you, lol.

"But last week, Toyota sent letters to 3.3 million owners of vehicles equipped with the two engines affected by the problem -- the 1MZ V-6 and the 5SFE inline 4 -- saying it will pay for repair costs in cases where owners can prove they made "reasonable efforts" to maintain the vehicle."
http://consumeraffairs.com/news02/toyota_sludge.html

I dont think we have that problem, but just in case either switch to synthetic or run 1/3 bottle of seafoam into your oil. Either one with clean out the engine.

sc.Fred

this is a very interesting topic because i brought this matter up and did some searching and said that it could possible be my oil sensor going bad. i might want to try the seafoam thing before i take any drastic measures because my car eats up about a quart in between changes and have to add it every once in awhile.

so Psionic - you just put spray the seafoam directly where you would put the oil when you change oil?

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

ahaHAHA.... what a coincidence eh?

So you think switching to synthetic would alleviate consumption? And I'm going to try the seafoam stuff... same question as sc.fred ..... just pour some of that stuff into the oil?

G Star

iTrader: (2)

Tommy, buy 2 bottles. I'll join you on your Seafoam adventure.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Lol, no mention of dead sensors for the interior temp control, register cracking, dead climate and speedo lighting, center driveshaft bearing failure, etc...........

I have seen the PS pump/alt issue posted in toyota paperwork once before though.

blaznsc4

where is this retaining nut on the support because i hear these noises from the rear. i keep thinking its the diff cuz i only hear it when im at a stop light or stop sign holding the brake. its a 93 sc400.

Psionic

Yep, just pour it directly into your oil filler cap.

As far as synthetic consumption.... boy thats a tricky one... I will try to explain it:

Synthetic oil has a way of cleaning out the old gunk or sludge in your engine. Sometimes, that gunk or sludge is the only thing preventing a serious leak. When the synthetic oil cleans it out, the serious leak tends to rear its ugly head. This is why some people say that synthetic oil "causes" leaks... in actuality, the leak was always there, it was just uncovered by synthetic oil.

There is a GREAT!! product called AutoRX. (http://www.auto-rx.com/) that will clean out every bit of sludge and it will stop all your leaks at the same time. (I have not used this, but I have heard nothing but good things about it... its just as good for your oil as Seafoam is for your intake).

If you are just going to try for different oil, switch to a heavier oil.. like a 40wt or 50wt. I wouldnt recommend that because you dont know what your engine will do with a heavier oil. I would try an AutoRX treatment, and THEN switch to a synthetic oil. This way, you get your engine clean and keep it clean.. and you keep the recommended weight of oil.

My SC300 had 185k on it when I got it... the first oil change was directly to Mobil 1 10w30. I have put almost 3000 miles on it since Thanksgiving, and I just had to add a quart yesterday. My old Corolla needed a quart of makeup oil every 3-4k miles too... no leaks or smoke with it at all.