Ok, here is the prototype which will keep me going until this winter when I make a better one. Sorry it took so long to post, it fits ok in there, but not as flush as I wanted.

Still, I get gobs of air rammed into the engine with it and the heat shield box really helps contain it and force it into the engine (only two more left by the way) and the brake temps are not affected.

 

 

why not just get some of that tubing stuff from home depot or sometihing? I don't know what it's called, but I have a piece sitting in my trunk...I'm just waiting on the heat shield that I bought from you

oh yah...and I still need to get a air filter...and I need to figure out how to put it on

 

Too bad it wont work for Soarer GT's It blocks the intercooler

How thick is the unt? can you give dimensions on the thing?

And is that fibreglass or bog ? :P

Toan

 

Why is the prototype better than the aluminum hoses and gutter inlet scoop? They both appear to gather "all" the outside air thru their respective inlets thru the vent.

I used the hard one(it's the type that all the ribs are compressed all the way, then formed to position...) not the soft hose with the large wavy type constrution. Hmmmmmmm the www.weapon-r.com ram air(check out their "ram air" unit) is the soft type...

Does it really matters about the air coming to the air filter? As long as the air from the filter to the intake is smooth? Since a cone filter is sucking air from all directions anyway.

Now is it is a weapon-r type filter with the ram air directly bolted/into the top of the filter, now that may make a small difference.

Once a more refined prototype is completed I'm sure you'll have the test numbers!!! As always I'll be looking for them too!!!

Hey, are you going to be at Nopi on the 15th and 16th?

 

Hiya Ikon - sorry I had no luck in Taiwan.

I have no concrete data as to why exactly this contraption is better. It is a larger dimension, wide cavity box with no flex, so theoretically, it will flow a greater volume of air than a 3" or 4" diameter hose would.

The box is made of fiberglass and is about 4" deep. It goes up to the headlight (@7.5 inches high)

I'm looking for a peak hold velometer to determine the airflow change. The one I have does not record the highest point.

 

If anyone has knowledge on the actual effectiveness of intake modification, I would be interested in their comments on the attached article.

It seems to make sense to me.

http://www.autophysics.com/design.html

 

The only person I have come across who has tested the pressure changes from a stock set up to a 'ram air' set up is "UZZ32".

All his testing from 2000rpm to 6000rpm with pressures measured at various points from before the filter, in the 'airbox', across the filter and after the AFM showed a positive improvement with a similar type of cold air induction system to that of Ikon and 933005spd.

I'll see if I can get him to join us on this thread

 

Stoplight, thanks for that link to Autophysics filters/ram air products... I like their site. There is so many filters out there and all claim to be the best. I think they all about the same in h.p. as one test proved but the filtration of dirt is the most important factor!

 

Ok pod boys it's time for a roasting!

Filtration is the most important - so stick with the genuine filter!!! It is a high flow filter - no need to change it. All you need is a cold air intake to replace the snorkel. I have measured the pressure drop across the standard filter and it is very very low. The difference between it and a cotton gauze filter is extremely small and will make no difference to your mild tuned cars.

A pod filter will NEVER EVER develop positive pressure from any "ram air" device. It would have to be a sealed enclosure. A fancy heat shield will leak. A really fancy heat shield? - then you are trying to imitate a high flow standard airbox with bits of aluminium sheet, a few pop rivets and some bodgy fibreglass - if you want a sealed enclosure that can capture cold ram air then put the bloody standard airbox back in!!! A screen in front of an inlet is worth about 2 inches of water pressure drop - a step backwards. Those big buck "ram air" devices for pod filters you can buy should be called "cool breeze", they will never provide enough air under full throttle - the pod will just suck in hot dirty air and stick it straight in the engine.

Have a look at the tortured path the air has to travel to get around a square box (heat shield) into a pod filter, then through some sharp edged adapter into the AFM. Compare to the smooth venturi staight through in and out of the standard airbox - the airbox is the ducks guts and works fantastic. BUT the inlet to the airbox and the snorkel were designed to minimise dirt, water and noise. Toss the snorkel away, enlarge the inlet and get a sealed ram cold air intake to feed the box and you are cooking.

Pod filters? - Never! Drop in panel filters? - a waste of money! Do you believe everything printed on the side of a fancy package? - you must be joking! Pod only works with an ECU piggy back as well? - Yeah right - try the ECU with a new Lexus filter and no snorkel and compare that. Are test results from the manufacturer totally independent? Sure they are.....

http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/ram_air.htm

 

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

The quest for answers continue...

You made some valid points, but there's been too many test about filters and dynos done for members on these forums to say that cone filters/maf adapters/intakes do not work... From dyno, g-techs, graphs like yours, etc...

Some me a dyno and maybe I'll be convinced. Because I can create all sort of graphs on my computer to prove my point too...

Some cars react better to panel filters, I'm sure. Some air boxes are restrictive some are not... I'll let the more knowledgeable guys finish debate...

 

These results I can understand and sound reasonable. However, the point of the heat shield and what I call 'ram air' was actually cooler air and higher volume.

There was absolutely an improvement going to the conical filter in my case. That was when I decided on a quest for cooler air.

Based upon what you see, we need to determine if the pressure drop is the same in the I6, and then if the drop in performance is exceeded by the gain in performance from more volume and cooler air.

PV=nRT so if the pressure drops, the volume increases, and if the temperature drops the amount air (volume) increases. Correct?

We need some unbiased dyno results.