things to look for on SC400
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am considering a SC400. It probably will be a 1992-1993 model. What should I look for?
Anyone know a good Lexus shop in the San Francisco Bay Area? (Other then a Lexus dealer, I mean)
Anyone know a good Lexus shop in the San Francisco Bay Area? (Other then a Lexus dealer, I mean)
#2
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lexus SCs don't have very good resale value. You should be able to get one with a good price. If possible, try to get 95 and up as Consummer Report recommended. I have a 94 and i know what they meant. It's not too bad, but for a Lexus, it should be better. I have/had problems with power window motors on both side within a 6 mos period. Rattle from dash board (not curable) and rattle under car (fixed, bad clam). I only have 52km on the car so far.
Good luck
Good luck
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info.. I am not sure I can spend the $$ for a 95. The 92-93 are selling for around $12-15k, which is in my price range. How much more are the 1995's?
My 1999 GS3 has a rattle in the dash! It's intermittent, and the roads near the dealer does not have the right kind of bumps to help isolate the rattle. Power windows are fine though...
My 1999 GS3 has a rattle in the dash! It's intermittent, and the roads near the dealer does not have the right kind of bumps to help isolate the rattle. Power windows are fine though...
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally posted by amati5
Ocassionaly i look at the ads on SCs and the prices on 95's are no different than 94's.
Ocassionaly i look at the ads on SCs and the prices on 95's are no different than 94's.
I did see a a 95 for 15k. But no indication of mileage, condition, etc.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Look for the expensive stuff...
The Red LED speedometer needles are difficult to replace. They will tend to go out, especially when its hot outside. There is a heater valve that leaks coolant, often times is a problem. This valve is on the firewall high up under the wiper. Take it through a car wash, the headlight seals are often leaky. Replacement headlamp housings are expensive $300 ish. If its an automatic, drive under light throttle up to 45mph... There should be a seamless shift schedule, shouldn't shutter when shifting gears. If the torque convertor is failing you'll notice a vibration around 40-50 mph when it tries to lock up. Items like seat cracks can usually be fixed at the dealer for a reasonable price. Look at the seams in the body panels, they should all be consistent if it hasn't been wrecked. Lexus was very particular about this fit and finish.
Overall, for a 10 year old car, the problems on these are minor, and typically don't affect the longevity of the car... Moreover, the materials quality makes them look new far longer than any other car that I know of.
The Red LED speedometer needles are difficult to replace. They will tend to go out, especially when its hot outside. There is a heater valve that leaks coolant, often times is a problem. This valve is on the firewall high up under the wiper. Take it through a car wash, the headlight seals are often leaky. Replacement headlamp housings are expensive $300 ish. If its an automatic, drive under light throttle up to 45mph... There should be a seamless shift schedule, shouldn't shutter when shifting gears. If the torque convertor is failing you'll notice a vibration around 40-50 mph when it tries to lock up. Items like seat cracks can usually be fixed at the dealer for a reasonable price. Look at the seams in the body panels, they should all be consistent if it hasn't been wrecked. Lexus was very particular about this fit and finish.
Overall, for a 10 year old car, the problems on these are minor, and typically don't affect the longevity of the car... Moreover, the materials quality makes them look new far longer than any other car that I know of.
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally posted by SC300T
Look for the expensive stuff...
The Red LED speedometer needles are difficult to replace. They will tend to go out, especially when its hot outside. There is a heater valve that leaks coolant, often times is a problem. This valve is on the firewall high up under the wiper. Take it through a car wash, the headlight seals are often leaky. Replacement headlamp housings are expensive $300 ish. If its an automatic, drive under light throttle up to 45mph... There should be a seamless shift schedule, shouldn't shutter when shifting gears. If the torque convertor is failing you'll notice a vibration around 40-50 mph when it tries to lock up. Items like seat cracks can usually be fixed at the dealer for a reasonable price. Look at the seams in the body panels, they should all be consistent if it hasn't been wrecked. Lexus was very particular about this fit and finish.
Overall, for a 10 year old car, the problems on these are minor, and typically don't affect the longevity of the car... Moreover, the materials quality makes them look new far longer than any other car that I know of.
Look for the expensive stuff...
The Red LED speedometer needles are difficult to replace. They will tend to go out, especially when its hot outside. There is a heater valve that leaks coolant, often times is a problem. This valve is on the firewall high up under the wiper. Take it through a car wash, the headlight seals are often leaky. Replacement headlamp housings are expensive $300 ish. If its an automatic, drive under light throttle up to 45mph... There should be a seamless shift schedule, shouldn't shutter when shifting gears. If the torque convertor is failing you'll notice a vibration around 40-50 mph when it tries to lock up. Items like seat cracks can usually be fixed at the dealer for a reasonable price. Look at the seams in the body panels, they should all be consistent if it hasn't been wrecked. Lexus was very particular about this fit and finish.
Overall, for a 10 year old car, the problems on these are minor, and typically don't affect the longevity of the car... Moreover, the materials quality makes them look new far longer than any other car that I know of.
Trending Topics
#8
Lexus Test Driver
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Meanboy – What you’ve got to do is be patient – I’ve got my ’92 SC4 in the paper right now for 14K – in EXCELLENT shape (this isn’t a sales pitch – not worth it to drive between SF and Dallas for either of us) it’s just that you ought to be able to find a coupe that someone has treated with TLC. It’s been a pleasure to drive for almost 9 years – that’s how much I liked mine! They seem to be on the low side here in big D – Sunday paper listed several for 9K to 15K. I spent $2,235.79 on mine in 9 years, including brakes ($248 bucks a year ain’t bad for looks, comfort, handling, speed, etc. that comes with the coupe). If the GS4 hadn’t seduced me, I’d still be driving my SC. It’s a great car, just be patient and hold out for one that’s been treated right!
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: California
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'll be very patient when looking for a SC. I am pretty picky and I have a car to drive now so I'll take my time.
I think paying a little more for a well kept SC is always a smart move.
Thanks for your encouragement.
I think paying a little more for a well kept SC is always a smart move.
Thanks for your encouragement.
#10
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
SC300T,
If I can feel a pronounced shifting, not too harsh but pronounced, does this means I'm having a transmission problem. Also, when I drive spiritually, if you get my idea, the shifting feels more seamless, and then right after that while driving "normally" it is also seamless. When cold, for example in the morning, the shifting is more pronounced again. What can this mean?
Thanks,
Chris K.
95 SC400
If its an automatic, drive under light throttle up to 45mph... There should be a seamless shift schedule, shouldn't shutter when shifting gears.
Thanks,
Chris K.
95 SC400
Last edited by ChrisK; 09-28-01 at 04:55 AM.
#11
Lexus Test Driver
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds like everything is ok...
Cold temps will cause most automatics to shift firmer... Clunky shifts when hot could be anything from a worn tranny to the engine not making "expected" power. Shift firmness is dependent on manifold pressure... If the engine is making more or less power than expected, a shift can become harsh. So as a minimum, if your car is out of tune and not making normal power, that could cause harsh shifting. Even spark plugs can alter the firmness. Worn plugs will exaggerate spark "knock" and cause the ECU to scale back timing (retard). This reduces power and economy and can induce harsher shifts.
Is your car tuned up/running strong? Transmission fluid changed? Anything that affects engine performance can affect transmission shift quality.
Cold temps will cause most automatics to shift firmer... Clunky shifts when hot could be anything from a worn tranny to the engine not making "expected" power. Shift firmness is dependent on manifold pressure... If the engine is making more or less power than expected, a shift can become harsh. So as a minimum, if your car is out of tune and not making normal power, that could cause harsh shifting. Even spark plugs can alter the firmness. Worn plugs will exaggerate spark "knock" and cause the ECU to scale back timing (retard). This reduces power and economy and can induce harsher shifts.
Is your car tuned up/running strong? Transmission fluid changed? Anything that affects engine performance can affect transmission shift quality.
#12
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
SC300T,
Thank you for your input.
I recently changed the spark plug wires, distributor caps and rotors. I change the trans fluid every 15K, as stated by the user manual. The valves where also adjusted 10K miles ago.
I definitely agree with your statement when it comes to the engine making less than normal power, and causing the different transmission behavior.
I could feel the difference after doing tune up. I could feel the difference in the trans shifting after I've done the valve adjustment.
Right now my car runs smoothly, but on the other hand it always run smoothly, but after doing the above mentioned things I get surprised how smoother it gets. I guess if a person never drives the properly setup SC400 he/she will never know how smooth this car should be.
Also, I'm using Bosh Platinum +4 plugs, for last 20K or so, and I wonder if I actually should put in NGK Platinum, or Denso Iridium Plugs.
Any other suggestions you could give me? What should I take care of on my car to make sure it runs normally?
Thank you for all your help,
Chris K.
95 SC400
Thank you for your input.
I recently changed the spark plug wires, distributor caps and rotors. I change the trans fluid every 15K, as stated by the user manual. The valves where also adjusted 10K miles ago.
I definitely agree with your statement when it comes to the engine making less than normal power, and causing the different transmission behavior.
I could feel the difference after doing tune up. I could feel the difference in the trans shifting after I've done the valve adjustment.
Right now my car runs smoothly, but on the other hand it always run smoothly, but after doing the above mentioned things I get surprised how smoother it gets. I guess if a person never drives the properly setup SC400 he/she will never know how smooth this car should be.
Also, I'm using Bosh Platinum +4 plugs, for last 20K or so, and I wonder if I actually should put in NGK Platinum, or Denso Iridium Plugs.
Any other suggestions you could give me? What should I take care of on my car to make sure it runs normally?
Thank you for all your help,
Chris K.
95 SC400
#13
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Be careful when buying the 92 SC. Make sure the miles aren't over 100 K. If they are try to get them under 115 K. BEWARE OF ROLLBACKS !! It's fairly easy to do with the right equipment.
The steering fluid pump goes out, the dash light needles start to flicker, the side body strip moldings start to pop out, water gets into the headlights, the interior door handles start to wobble, the 12-disc changer starts to act up if you put thick CD's in, the brakes squeak, and the gear in the passenger power seat wears out.
I know from time and experience. Be sure not to gun the car... unless you prep it for racing... a 92 stock SC 300 won't take the abuse....
OH AND BTW. if you want to use burned CDs.... The trick is to buy NON-rewriteable CD's and burn your MP3's at 1x.
The steering fluid pump goes out, the dash light needles start to flicker, the side body strip moldings start to pop out, water gets into the headlights, the interior door handles start to wobble, the 12-disc changer starts to act up if you put thick CD's in, the brakes squeak, and the gear in the passenger power seat wears out.
I know from time and experience. Be sure not to gun the car... unless you prep it for racing... a 92 stock SC 300 won't take the abuse....
OH AND BTW. if you want to use burned CDs.... The trick is to buy NON-rewriteable CD's and burn your MP3's at 1x.
#15
Lexus Champion
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"Cheech" made some legitmate claims except the 300 can not take the abuse. All Toyo/Lexus engines are built to last.
When buying a car almost 10 years old, these are very minor problems to say the least. After 5-6 years most "Luxury" car have 3 times as many problems. The things we call so-called problems are basically time worn items.
Urrrrrrrrrr, except the power steering pump(mine is whining/small leak now) and 12 disc changer.
If you get a car that has been marginally take care of the car will last.. It is built to last with fewer trips to the dealer, unlike Mercedes, BMW, Audi and Jaguar. If you are totally concerned purchase a car with low miles and get a 3yr 36K bumper to bumper warranty. Either from a Lexus dealer ($1K to 1200) or an outside warr. company for about $800 - 900 bucks.
The Ikon
When buying a car almost 10 years old, these are very minor problems to say the least. After 5-6 years most "Luxury" car have 3 times as many problems. The things we call so-called problems are basically time worn items.
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Frown](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
If you get a car that has been marginally take care of the car will last.. It is built to last with fewer trips to the dealer, unlike Mercedes, BMW, Audi and Jaguar. If you are totally concerned purchase a car with low miles and get a 3yr 36K bumper to bumper warranty. Either from a Lexus dealer ($1K to 1200) or an outside warr. company for about $800 - 900 bucks.
The Ikon