97 blk/blk 5spd value
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I hate to bring up another thread asking about how much a car is worth, but kbb/nada/etc aren't really representative for these cars because they're few and far between. I searched and found a previous thread where people had said anywhere from $14k-$18k for a 97 blk/tan 5spd w/ 33k miles... I'm looking at a 97 blk/blk 5spd w/ 1 owner and 100k miles and they are asking $15.5k which is too high for me, but I'm wondering what you guys think is a fair price for it.
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I know this is NOT a perfect comparison, but I just picked up a '97 Blk/Blk Automatic with 110K in Texas for $ 9,500 in very good condition. I'm not sure how much more a 5 speed would be actually worth.
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Automatic sc300's are better bang/buck. The 5 speeds break at low power levels and upgrading the transmissions to handle more power reliably is a ridiculously expensive process. Personally, I think the seller is asking too much for that 1997 blk/blk 5 speed. Keep in mind, it's going to need new suspension, tune up, maintenance cost, probably need some control arms replaced because the bushings are shot, etc. Gas prices are going up and sc300's don't get great gas mileage especially the 5 speeds since cruising rpms's are very high. So, you'll be over-paying for a sc300 car that has a really cramped cockpit (not meant for tall torso'd folks..my head hits the ceiling in my sc300), it's an OLD car (you WILL have problems that will begin surfacing the longer you own it), and it doesn't handle "that" well.
Some Common issues & things to look for with sc300s:
Radiator Fan clutch becomes weak (Replace)
Rear Main Differential leaks
w58 5speed trans synchros on last legs (Rebuild $$$)
Frequency of oil changes and type of oil used (this is important and you'll never know for sure how the previous owner maintained the car despite what he says)
AC Compressor failure (Replace)
Alignment out of spec
Brakes need servicing (rotors, pads, etc)
Valve Cover Gaskets (Replace)
Valve Stem Seals (Replace. Many 2jz-ge valve stem seals need replacing after 60,000 miles)
Distributor O'ring, Cap, & Rotor (Replace)
Timing Belt (Replace)
Timing Belt Tensioner (Replace)
Drive Belt (Replace)
Spark Plug Wires (Replace)
Spark Plugs (Replace)
Alternator Failure from leaked oil via distributor if O'ring is shot (Replace)
Water Pump failure (Replace)
Control arm bushings deteriorated (Replace control arms with new supra TT ones)
Broken plastic parts like injector clips + miscellaneous connectors
--> It brakes because these cars are OLD & the plastic becomes brittle..even some radiator
fan shrouds crack & break easily.
Corroded bolts/screws/ and other miscellaneous hardware that requires Breaking or melting with a torch to remove.
Trunk shocks are shot (Replace)
Burnt out bulbs in the dash or console (Replace $$$)
Cracks on the interior trim surfaces are not uncommon w/ these cars.
I'm sure there are a slew of other things I'm forgetting. So, once you pay several thousand dollars (and more for labor costs if you don't do it yourself) to get the complete car up to par, then you pay several thousand more IF you choose to turbo the engine. And btw, a turbo'd 300rwhp sc300 will regularly get beat by a stock engine Dodge Neon SRT4 @ ~16psi (900lbs lighter). Now if you choose to upgade the headgasket in the sc300 and run more boost, add a few more thousand dollars to make sure the car can handle the power.
In the long run, it's usually cheaper to buy a newer car that has better handling in stock form, better driveability, cheaper to modify, and with some cars includes warranty. I say this with "street cars" in mind. If you're building a 600+rwhp track car and you just love the sc300, then sure go for it.
I'm not trying to discourage you, but since money is a factor in your purchasing decision, I'm pointing out things that many pepole do not mention when hyping up sc300 turbo projects. I'm mentioning turbo because SC300 cars are EXTREMELY slow in stock form and for the money, there are much better alternatives out there IF you want the car's engine to remain stock.
Some Common issues & things to look for with sc300s:
Radiator Fan clutch becomes weak (Replace)
Rear Main Differential leaks
w58 5speed trans synchros on last legs (Rebuild $$$)
Frequency of oil changes and type of oil used (this is important and you'll never know for sure how the previous owner maintained the car despite what he says)
AC Compressor failure (Replace)
Alignment out of spec
Brakes need servicing (rotors, pads, etc)
Valve Cover Gaskets (Replace)
Valve Stem Seals (Replace. Many 2jz-ge valve stem seals need replacing after 60,000 miles)
Distributor O'ring, Cap, & Rotor (Replace)
Timing Belt (Replace)
Timing Belt Tensioner (Replace)
Drive Belt (Replace)
Spark Plug Wires (Replace)
Spark Plugs (Replace)
Alternator Failure from leaked oil via distributor if O'ring is shot (Replace)
Water Pump failure (Replace)
Control arm bushings deteriorated (Replace control arms with new supra TT ones)
Broken plastic parts like injector clips + miscellaneous connectors
--> It brakes because these cars are OLD & the plastic becomes brittle..even some radiator
fan shrouds crack & break easily.
Corroded bolts/screws/ and other miscellaneous hardware that requires Breaking or melting with a torch to remove.
Trunk shocks are shot (Replace)
Burnt out bulbs in the dash or console (Replace $$$)
Cracks on the interior trim surfaces are not uncommon w/ these cars.
I'm sure there are a slew of other things I'm forgetting. So, once you pay several thousand dollars (and more for labor costs if you don't do it yourself) to get the complete car up to par, then you pay several thousand more IF you choose to turbo the engine. And btw, a turbo'd 300rwhp sc300 will regularly get beat by a stock engine Dodge Neon SRT4 @ ~16psi (900lbs lighter). Now if you choose to upgade the headgasket in the sc300 and run more boost, add a few more thousand dollars to make sure the car can handle the power.
In the long run, it's usually cheaper to buy a newer car that has better handling in stock form, better driveability, cheaper to modify, and with some cars includes warranty. I say this with "street cars" in mind. If you're building a 600+rwhp track car and you just love the sc300, then sure go for it.
I'm not trying to discourage you, but since money is a factor in your purchasing decision, I'm pointing out things that many pepole do not mention when hyping up sc300 turbo projects. I'm mentioning turbo because SC300 cars are EXTREMELY slow in stock form and for the money, there are much better alternatives out there IF you want the car's engine to remain stock.
Last edited by dejacky; 07-05-06 at 02:45 AM.
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thanks a lot for the input guys... yeah at that price I might as well just get a 98+ 290hp sc400 and probably leave it fairly stock which might be the better idea at this point. ca used car prices for cars like the sc are way inflated in comparison to the rest of the country.
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Originally Posted by dejacky
Or you can just pay $8,000 to have a fully legalized Toyota Soarer 5 speed ![Cool](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
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i guess i could compare to this.. my 97 is pearl white with tan interior and i paid 9g for it with 115k on the odo, so for black on black 5spd with 100k ide pay... 10.5g tops personally after going with pearl white, ide never go back
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Originally Posted by dejacky
The 5 speeds break at low power levels
Originally Posted by dejacky
Gas prices are going up and sc300's don't get great gas mileage especially the 5 speeds since cruising rpms's are very high.
Not sure I agree with either of these comments. I believe the SC300 manual tranny is more durable (can handle more hp/tq) than the automatic, and that the manual SC300's get slightly better milage than auto's. (unless molested obviously)
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04-07-06 03:08 AM