What is the force I need to apply on the spark plugs when tightening them? I do not want to put the plugs on too tight so as to strip the aluminum and really want them factory spec.

I would really appreciate it if someone could post the proper torque needed and also any tips. =)

 

I got a $6 spark plug tool at autozone... Its kind of cool. Being boosted I knew I'd need to remove plugs often. its basically a sparkplug socket with an integral U-joint and a rubber coated T-handle. The handle is of a size that prevents normal humans from over torquing. Just give the T-handle a good twist. The U-joint allows some degree of sideways motion for hard to reach plugs, and the length is perfect for clearance on most cylinder heads. I guess you COULD use a torque wrench, though. Just remember not to pull the plugs when the engine is hot---big no-no. Also hand thread until you know the plug is going in o.k. This is the one place you don't want to cross thread.

 

all my other aluminum head engines are listed as 17-22 pounds,dry-non oiled.
A good way to get the plugs in and out of the motor gently is with a length of 5/16" fuel line.
Are you going with the iridium,stock plugs?

 

This is straight out of a 1990 Ls 400 manuel which is basicly the same as your veh, I have a 93 Sc 400 and I am a Lexus tech so if you have any other questions feel free to ask. The gap is 1.1 mm(o.o43 in.) the torque is 13 ft-lbs, 18 N-m. hope this helps good luck.

 

I'm going to change my own wires and plugs this time around how long should it take me and a friend? We are both mechanically inclined... I had another guy do it last time...

I got instrcutions for taking off the starter, do I have to take all the same stuff off to just change the plugs/wires distrubutor and caps/rotors? Could you sum it for me if you have the time right now?

Also, IS IT REALLY EASY OR NOT TO REBUILD/ RESEAL or O-RING the POWER STEERING pump kit on the SC???? A few members say it is hard as hell and a few say it is easy... I'm confused. My pump is starting to leak more from the bottom hose I think, and it is making that whurring/whining sound now!!!

Thanks,

The Ikon

 

It's actually kind of a pain in the butt, but if you have time and pacients it will eventually pay off first thing to do is use factory equipment second why do you want to replace this equipment is your veh running rough? Next question your power steering pump, answer to that question is put in a new factory reman or brand new one choice is yours , if you try to rebuild it, it can and will be a pain in the butt not only in money but time spent, we the dealers have tried to rebuild them but to no evail. after market ones cause problems as well they try to rebuild them some are lucky some are not thats your choice me myself I dont mess around with aftermarket products granted it's a cheaper way to go but if the product works great if not your basicly screwed reason being you have to do the job twice and I am not one for doing that because it causes alot of money and time.good luck brother

 

The Bosch "oem fit" wires suck for the '92 SC4,as they're 2-3" too long,and there isn't really any good place for the excess.
I did my best to tuck away the extra wire without kinking,but it'd been alot easier to get the factory ones for about the same price,alot less in some places.

 

Thanks for the input guys...

 

My turn to say thank you to all who provided the insight to my problem. I appreciate the time you have taken to reply and help fellow club members.

 

LS400 and SC400 have the same setup. It's not that hard.

For the left (driver side) take the two covers off with 10 mm socket. For the right it a little tricky. take the air filter housing off, remember to take off the MAF connector and the hose off. Then the hose that connect to the throttle body, there is a bolt on the back side of the body. Don't get discourage if youcan't get it off the first 5 min. it will come off and the next time you know what to do. Now take the covers off. If you're buying OEM wires, the wires are number so you don't have to worry about which wires goes where. try to remember which wire goes to which clip holes will make you feel better. Spark plugs change are easy too, take it easy and remember to use ANTISEIZE on the treads so it easier the next time around.
My first time took me less than 2 hrs. that's because I know how to take the right side air box and the throttle body hose off already. If it your first time it may take a lot longer but you can do the whole thing with a 10mm socket 1/4 rachet, a screw driver, a plier to loosen the hose clips and spark plug socket 3/8 rachet extension and one of those bendable thingy.

Hint: When put thing back use DW40 to lub the hoses so it go back in easy. Twist the hoses/spark plugs wire a little before trying to pull it off

If you want to replace the caps and rotors also, it will take you a little longer, but it worth it. To change caps and rotors you need to take off the timing chain cover and it involved take the belt off, radiator hose off...and a lot of back ache. I drop a few bolts while doing it so it took me a lot longer to look for the damn bolts because I needed to raise the car up, take the bottom cover off...so be careful not to drop anything. Do it slow and you come out ahead because you don't spnt haft the time looking for drop bolts.
Another alternative is pay someone to do it, I am cheap and I like to learn how to do the easy stuff.

I paid $91 the set of OEM wires from Carson Toyota. ~$6 per Nep plug, ~$15-16 cap, $8 rotor. Rememeber there are two cap and two rotors for this car.

I'll pay when I can't do it myself.

Have fun working on your car.
****************************************************(from VQT)

 

Back ache, tell me about it. I did this last year including all the above and changed out the drive belt while, I was at it. The belt was cracked and costed around $35-45 from the dealer. Do that as well.

 

Thanks for the additional info. BlackSC is changing the belt as easy as it looks? How do you release tension and then set the tension correctly when finished?

 

The belt is A-B-C easy. Make sure to get a belt from the dealer. Thoes aftermarket belts ARE NOT the EXACT length! They look like it but they are off 1/4" to 1/2 inch... It is hard to really see with the naked eye.

***You will have "belt squeal" sooner of later with the after market belts...

To release the tension get a rachet to release the belt by the large nut on the "belt idler" pulley. The entire pulley is going to move and the belt will slip off. Just follow the direction on the bottom under the hood for putting it back on A-B-C. It should take no more than 10 minutes.

Get an OEM belt!!! Spend the $15 extra bucks!!!

 

Pretty easy. I just took off one of the coolant hoses b/c, not enough cleaance. Then took off the belt. I kind of forgot the details but, it was not that hard. One oir nire pulleys pivot so, taking off the belt and putting it on was not as hard as it looked. However, make sure the belt is put on right. Somewhere, I read that there should be arrows going the direction of the belt on the belt itself. However, the belt I got just says, " Toyota" and I just faced it so I could read it from the front of the car. There were no arrows on my belt. You might want to ask the parts guy or tech when, you get the belt.

I've had no problems up to date, but, I am going to change out the spark plugs soon. If you do the distributor cap and rotor, spark plug wires, and drivebelt. Expect to use the factory service manual and a whole weekend. You might want to buy one of those back support belts also. It takes it's toll on your back.

 

There's no need to do that. Unless you have arms the size of "The Big Show" off WWF: