SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

SC3 vs. SC4 - Pros/Cons/Costs

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Old 08-08-06, 09:10 AM
  #16  
jibbby
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SC300 - Cheesy looking stock rims, no trunk wing...SC400 emblems just look and sound better then the SC300 emblems...Bigger numbers are always more impressive to the naked eye especially on all sports cars.....Just take the Mercedes for example, 500sl, 600sl, etc..So my point?

SC400 - They simply look more impressive at stock period, rims, have more power, fuel economy is almost the same too....

Used price comparisons are close which is good for a SC400 purchase...

A few parts are made to be stronger on the SC400......


Go with the SC400 all day long if you are keeping it at stock form....Performance speaking if you are looking and just getting the basic external engine mods the SC400 is still the better choice...More gains will show up on SC400 with exhaust mods, ECU piggy, etc...in comparision to the 6 banger SC300 motors....

If you are looking to get massiive HP gains like with an aftermarket turbo or something to that affect...The SC300 would be the more cost effective choice...Easier to turbo, more room under the hood, etc....
Old 08-08-06, 11:34 AM
  #17  
Nosser
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Originally Posted by joshthorsc

Spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap and rotor, water pump, timing belt, radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, starter, valve cover gasket, intake manifold gaskets, two 02 sensors, battery, new but used engine(bad head gasket due to blown radiator), transmission mount, 2 motor mounts, clutch, drive belts, radiator cap, brake pads all around, passenger side headlight, windshield wipers, distributor o-ring seal, new tires, shocks, and trunk struts....$$$$$$$!!!!
Jeez, sounds like a nightmare. I do almost all my own maintenance, so most of the items (other than the replacement engine!) would be parts-only expenditures for me. My past experience with blown HGs (I used to own a 7M Supra - I KNOW about blown HGs) shows them to be fairly easy to diagnose - was yours hiding? Are HGs as much of an issue on 2JZs as they were on 7Ms? I can't imagine so, as the 7M was about the worst engine in history in terms of blowing them.

As I don't plan to swap or NA+T the car, sounds like a 400 is the best bet. I greatly prefer manual transmissions, but I am having to drive in LA more often and an auto is looking more and more attractive.
Old 08-08-06, 12:35 PM
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scsrock
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In my town, there is a black/black SC400 with 173K miles ... they ask for $4900.
Old 08-08-06, 03:20 PM
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sailainn
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I have 97 sc400 loking to trade for sc300 5sp
Old 08-08-06, 04:06 PM
  #20  
DriftNsc3
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Originally Posted by Sweetser
Get the SC300 in Manual if you want to swap a 1JZGTE or 2JZGTE and build it into a high HP monster. I'm not looking to offend anybody but I've heard a lot of people call the SC300 a "poor man's supra"

So is the GS300 the "the 4 door poor man supra"?

If you want a auto get either one you can find for the best deal,but if you really want a manual then you have to get a sc300. I have to say I have never driven a car with under 273rwhp with a harder 3rd gear pull then my stock 5spd SC300.

My friends 93 rx-7 dyno'd at 273 thats I why I used that odd number and not 275.
Richard
Old 08-08-06, 07:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nosser
Jeez, sounds like a nightmare. I do almost all my own maintenance, so most of the items (other than the replacement engine!) would be parts-only expenditures for me. My past experience with blown HGs (I used to own a 7M Supra - I KNOW about blown HGs) shows them to be fairly easy to diagnose - was yours hiding? Are HGs as much of an issue on 2JZs as they were on 7Ms? I can't imagine so, as the 7M was about the worst engine in history in terms of blowing them.

As I don't plan to swap or NA+T the car, sounds like a 400 is the best bet. I greatly prefer manual transmissions, but I am having to drive in LA more often and an auto is looking more and more attractive.
They fixed the HG problem on the 1jz/2jz's, so you dont have to worry about that. (the radiator thing is a freak occurance).

If you get a 300, make sure you check the distributor for any oil on or around it, or around the front of the engine. The $1.52 distributor o-ring can cost you a $188 alternator and a $70 battery (you see how my week went ) If you get a 400, make sure you check the power-steering pump for any fluid loss/leaks as well.

Also, I would advise against black interior because it is so damn HOT!
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