Info for those of you without a wing
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Not that this is all that brainy or cool, but it is some good info, since another noobe or someone else could run into the same problem.
I have a 92 wingless SC300 and the person I bought it from included a wing from and SC400, cool or so I thought. Well I finally decided to mount the wing and he had already pre-drilled the holes for me. Cool again I thought.
The reason he didnt install it is because he couldnt get the studs to come all the way through the trunk(no biggie, or so I thought).
Sooooo, after wrestling with it for 45minto an hours(the wing is also slightly warped), I said wait a minuet, this is retarded and shouldnt be this hard. I checked the mounting position he had picked with some pics I have and found that it was up to high as the wing is suppose to sit back, more flush with the edge of the trunk.
After changing the position, I found the studs went in a little farther but still not enough to mount.
Thinking, damn, bogus wing and maybe I should buy another one, I decided to have a drink and think about it. The wing isnt warped bad for those who are wondering, just ever so slightly and it doesnt affect how flush it sits with the trunk.
After some thought I said to hell with it and decided to re-stud it my damn self.
Tools needed: philips head screw driver, dremel(cutting bit for metal), drill(appropriate sized bit), 5 washers, self tapping screws, and two rivet type screws/flat head(I will get the actual names in a day or two), vice grips, ratchet w/ deep well sockets(whatever size of nut you use), 3M super strong adhesive, rubbing alcohol.
I will also post pics when I'm finished and ready to mount for before and after. Give me a few days, I just bought a digi cam today.
The three middle screws/studs come out easily, just clamp with the vice grips and unscrew.
The two end ones take some work but only about 5min on each. I just drilled out the center of the screws and out they came, but leaving the flat head portion still intact on the brace.
Now your ready to re-stud. The 3 center ones are self explanatory since they sef tap and screw into the previous holes of the 3 studs I took out.
For the two end studs I had to dremel out a square in the previous stud head so that the screw would lock down and not turn. Then you can use jb weld or something similiar to ensure it doesnt move.
After that, remove old molding tape, clean thoroughly as directed and apply new tape.
For inside the trunk to be able to access the screws I had to drill out some holes obviously and use a deep well ratchet.
Mount and screw in and it looks perfect.
As I said I will get the exact name and sizes of the bolts(same size as the ones that were originally in the wing) I used and post some pic's in a couple days, but I already pre-mounted it and it looked no different than anyone elses, just took allot more work.
I have a 92 wingless SC300 and the person I bought it from included a wing from and SC400, cool or so I thought. Well I finally decided to mount the wing and he had already pre-drilled the holes for me. Cool again I thought.
The reason he didnt install it is because he couldnt get the studs to come all the way through the trunk(no biggie, or so I thought).
Sooooo, after wrestling with it for 45minto an hours(the wing is also slightly warped), I said wait a minuet, this is retarded and shouldnt be this hard. I checked the mounting position he had picked with some pics I have and found that it was up to high as the wing is suppose to sit back, more flush with the edge of the trunk.
After changing the position, I found the studs went in a little farther but still not enough to mount.
Thinking, damn, bogus wing and maybe I should buy another one, I decided to have a drink and think about it. The wing isnt warped bad for those who are wondering, just ever so slightly and it doesnt affect how flush it sits with the trunk.
After some thought I said to hell with it and decided to re-stud it my damn self.
Tools needed: philips head screw driver, dremel(cutting bit for metal), drill(appropriate sized bit), 5 washers, self tapping screws, and two rivet type screws/flat head(I will get the actual names in a day or two), vice grips, ratchet w/ deep well sockets(whatever size of nut you use), 3M super strong adhesive, rubbing alcohol.
I will also post pics when I'm finished and ready to mount for before and after. Give me a few days, I just bought a digi cam today.
The three middle screws/studs come out easily, just clamp with the vice grips and unscrew.
The two end ones take some work but only about 5min on each. I just drilled out the center of the screws and out they came, but leaving the flat head portion still intact on the brace.
Now your ready to re-stud. The 3 center ones are self explanatory since they sef tap and screw into the previous holes of the 3 studs I took out.
For the two end studs I had to dremel out a square in the previous stud head so that the screw would lock down and not turn. Then you can use jb weld or something similiar to ensure it doesnt move.
After that, remove old molding tape, clean thoroughly as directed and apply new tape.
For inside the trunk to be able to access the screws I had to drill out some holes obviously and use a deep well ratchet.
Mount and screw in and it looks perfect.
As I said I will get the exact name and sizes of the bolts(same size as the ones that were originally in the wing) I used and post some pic's in a couple days, but I already pre-mounted it and it looked no different than anyone elses, just took allot more work.
#3
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jus looking at the wing you can see its problems to mount .i think in jus gonna go with the soarer trunk lid that im getting and save myself drilling 10 holes jus to get it right
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