matt7184

Man, its one bad thing after another. I got hit in the back last week while stopped, by an old lady

Now, my car is overheating! If I let it idle when I start it up, it doesnt overheat. Once I start driving, after about 7 minutes, the temp. gauge starts climbing. There is no steam or smoke of any kind. When I open up the hood, it is way hotter than usually after I drive it, so I dont think its a bad gauge.

I am thinking I need a new waterpump. Is there anyway to really tell before I go buy one? On the timing belt cover, it says that the timing belt was changed at 40,000 and I would think that if it was brought in for a tune up, they would change the waterpump. Is there a way to check?

Thanks guys for any of the help

matt7184

Also, I always drive without the AC and my car now has 69,000 miles.

Have any of you guys changed you waterpump?

VQT

For a car with 68K miles a water pump failing is unlikely.
Change the thermostat first. I the water pump fail, you would see some leakage below it. It is very difficult to see in the SC400. But try the thermostat first before going to the water pump route.

I always change the water pump when I change the timing belt.

Good luck

matt7184

Dont most people change the timing belt and waterpump at 60,000? Is changing the waterpump then, precautionary, or does it need to be replaced then?

VQT

yes change the water pump at the time of timing belt is a precautionary. Since you have to take to timing belt off to get to the pump anyway. I it time for your next timing belt, then yes change the water pump also. I thought the last owner changed the timing belt at 40K miles.
I would go for 90K mile before timing belt need to be change. The book does says inspect/change at 60K.

The Ikon

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=16594

The Ikon

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=13868

The Ikon

It may be you thermostat, but your car is a 92'. Plus the part is old regardless of the miles of the vehicle... So, the waterpump may if fact be bad.

To not when my w/pump failed there was no water leakeage at all. Not one drop that was on the ground nor inside the dust cover that I could see. Not one drop...

*check the radiator for blockage(get it flushed or flush it your self...

*make sue the fan has enough hyd. fluid in it...

*You may need a temp sensor...

****IIt sounds more like the w/pump to me however... Don't forget to us the "red" type of coolant for aluminum radiators whenever you change the fluid!!!

The Ikon

matt7184

I brought it to a shop and they said there was an large air bubble in my cooling system. They did a flush with non-silicate anti freeze and everything is fine now Now I just need to get my bumper fixed.

Also another cooling related question, have any of you guys replaced your radiator cap with a 1.1 bar cap?

matt7184

Thanx for all your help guys. I read your article about the flushing, Ikon, so I brought it to have it changed and sure enough that was the problem

The Ikon

Keep an eye on the temp!!! An air BUBBLE is a weird reason... I NEVER EVER heard of this before... Never say never... My car ran fine for a while before I had to ultimatley change the W/P..

Keep it KOOL guy...

matt7184

My car has ran fine so far for about 100 miles. Im probably going to go get some water wetter, which also helps with those air bubbles.

black sc

Air bubbles often happen more than you think. One way to resolve the issue on the SCs is take the bolt off on top of the water outlet and let the coolant bleed. If you do not want to do that, try filling it little by little and let the heater on full blast while filling. When you have finished filling leave the cap off. Another way is to fill the coolant from the top radiator hose then, top off the resevoir. Some ways to avoid air bubbles for anyone else doing a coolant flush.