Eibach Springs
10-17-01, 02:41 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Alabama
Posts: 462
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eibach Springs
What is everyone's opinions on Eibach springs for my SC400. I want suspension to be my next mod, but I hate losing the lexus smoothness. Will I regret lowering the car or what? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Adam
10-17-01, 05:47 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: California
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Richie
My advise, when you lower the car with springs, get some uprated dampers also.
The standard dampers will wear out faster with lowered springs.
My advise, when you lower the car with springs, get some uprated dampers also.
The standard dampers will wear out faster with lowered springs.
-Jon
10-18-01, 04:40 AM
#4
For obvious reasons; the springs are stiffer. So they will tear apart a set of stock struts.
I had a friend (with an RX-7) that put a front coil over adaptor kit onto his factory struts and dropped in #400 front springs. Needless to say the struts didn't last one autocross. He blew them both out within two runs!
Always upgrade the springs/struts as a set. Kinda like spark plugs; do one - do 'em all!!
Keith
P.S. For those that don't understand; the stronger spring will simply pull the strut back a lot quicker than a softer spring, so its that violent return to expanded state that ruptures seals and what not. The strut needs to be able to handle the spring weight when it returns. In racing applications, springs an struts are sold in weight ranges.
I had a friend (with an RX-7) that put a front coil over adaptor kit onto his factory struts and dropped in #400 front springs. Needless to say the struts didn't last one autocross. He blew them both out within two runs!
Always upgrade the springs/struts as a set. Kinda like spark plugs; do one - do 'em all!!
Keith
P.S. For those that don't understand; the stronger spring will simply pull the strut back a lot quicker than a softer spring, so its that violent return to expanded state that ruptures seals and what not. The strut needs to be able to handle the spring weight when it returns. In racing applications, springs an struts are sold in weight ranges.
10-18-01, 09:23 AM
#6
Lead Lap
If you want to retain the Lexus smoothness don't put in the springs. It will kill your smoothness.
I did several months ago and after tried it for a month or two took it out. I was so happy thenafter.
I did several months ago and after tried it for a month or two took it out. I was so happy thenafter.
10-18-01, 11:49 AM
#7
Originally posted by sc300jon
Ok, I think I am getting it.
But does a suspension with "stiff" springs move more or less than one with "soft" springs?
-Jon
Ok, I think I am getting it.
But does a suspension with "stiff" springs move more or less than one with "soft" springs?
-Jon
Example: If you are making many hard left and right hand turns consecutively, you can slowly jack down the cars suspension down because the dampening system can not correct itself in time for the next turn. A few turns later, you have jacked down and compressed the dampening system (struts/springs) and you are riding on bumpstops. Now, the next turn or bump you encounter, you will have no suspension travel and you will most likely lose control of your vehicle.
Stiffer springs and stronger struts will prevent this from occuring. If you get a matched pair, you will have considerably better handeling, with a slight loss of ride smoothness. Mismatch the dampening system and you could knock your molars out! Many people don't research their suspension. They just want to lower their car, so they get sport springs without understanding how everything works together. They don't realize that the whole system needs to be adjusted, not just the springs.
For every day use....it really doesn't matter. Its mainy for hi performance, spirited driving; or if you like to race. I would never change just the springs and leave the stock struts then then try to haul @ss on an on ramp. Thats asking for disaster. The car would most likely handle better with the stock suspension.
If you're going to do it, do it right. Change out springs and struts and your ride won't be so bad. It will still be considerably stiffer than stock, but nothing out of reason.
Hope this helps,
Keith
Trending Topics
10-18-01, 11:51 AM
#8
yes but if you want good handling as opposed to being able to stick you hand out the window and touch the ground because of bodyroll, get the springs...
get adjustable shocks and eibach 1.5" drop springs; set the shocks on the softest setting and you'll be happy... it'll be stiff but not jarring... and most of the people that complain about it just aren't used to stiffness... i drove my 300zxTT around for a year so i'm used to it
get adjustable shocks and eibach 1.5" drop springs; set the shocks on the softest setting and you'll be happy... it'll be stiff but not jarring... and most of the people that complain about it just aren't used to stiffness... i drove my 300zxTT around for a year so i'm used to it
10-18-01, 11:58 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: California
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Keith13b
The stiffer springs can travel the same distance, they are merely stronger, so, under exact conditions, they compress and re-rebound at a much quicker rate (hence the harsher ride). Remember it simply takes more energy to compress a stiffer spring, but they will still travel the same distance. I think you might be confusing energy absorbtion of the strut and spring compression. If your spring rate doesn't match your dampener (strut) rate, then you have an unstable suspension. The dampening rate needs to match the spring weight so both can function together as a whole. One will take the initial blow (spring), the other brings everything back to normal at a controled rate (strut). If they don't match, then you're in for one hell of a harsh ride because you are not dampening the car with both the shock and the spring. Both elements are key. Your spring is trying to work within its parameters, and the strut is doing something totally diferent. If the strut can't balance it out, you have an unsafe, unbalanced, bumpy ride.
Example: If you are making many hard left and right hand turns consecutively, you can slowly jack down the cars suspension down because the dampening system can not correct itself in time for the next turn. A few turns later, you have jacked down and compressed the dampening system (struts/springs) and you are riding on bumpstops. Now, the next turn or bump you encounter, you will have no suspension travel and you will most likely lose control of your vehicle.
Stiffer springs and stronger struts will prevent this from occuring. If you get a matched pair, you will have considerably better handeling, with a slight loss of ride smoothness. Mismatch the dampening system and you could knock your molars out! Many people don't research their suspension. They just want to lower their car, so they get sport springs without understanding how everything works together. They don't realize that the whole system needs to be adjusted, not just the springs.
For every day use....it really doesn't matter. Its mainy for hi performance, spirited driving; or if you like to race. I would never change just the springs and leave the stock struts then then try to haul @ss on an on ramp. Thats asking for disaster. The car would most likely handle better with the stock suspension.
If you're going to do it, do it right. Change out springs and struts and your ride won't be so bad. It will still be considerably stiffer than stock, but nothing out of reason.
Hope this helps,
Keith
The stiffer springs can travel the same distance, they are merely stronger, so, under exact conditions, they compress and re-rebound at a much quicker rate (hence the harsher ride). Remember it simply takes more energy to compress a stiffer spring, but they will still travel the same distance. I think you might be confusing energy absorbtion of the strut and spring compression. If your spring rate doesn't match your dampener (strut) rate, then you have an unstable suspension. The dampening rate needs to match the spring weight so both can function together as a whole. One will take the initial blow (spring), the other brings everything back to normal at a controled rate (strut). If they don't match, then you're in for one hell of a harsh ride because you are not dampening the car with both the shock and the spring. Both elements are key. Your spring is trying to work within its parameters, and the strut is doing something totally diferent. If the strut can't balance it out, you have an unsafe, unbalanced, bumpy ride.
Example: If you are making many hard left and right hand turns consecutively, you can slowly jack down the cars suspension down because the dampening system can not correct itself in time for the next turn. A few turns later, you have jacked down and compressed the dampening system (struts/springs) and you are riding on bumpstops. Now, the next turn or bump you encounter, you will have no suspension travel and you will most likely lose control of your vehicle.
Stiffer springs and stronger struts will prevent this from occuring. If you get a matched pair, you will have considerably better handeling, with a slight loss of ride smoothness. Mismatch the dampening system and you could knock your molars out! Many people don't research their suspension. They just want to lower their car, so they get sport springs without understanding how everything works together. They don't realize that the whole system needs to be adjusted, not just the springs.
For every day use....it really doesn't matter. Its mainy for hi performance, spirited driving; or if you like to race. I would never change just the springs and leave the stock struts then then try to haul @ss on an on ramp. Thats asking for disaster. The car would most likely handle better with the stock suspension.
If you're going to do it, do it right. Change out springs and struts and your ride won't be so bad. It will still be considerably stiffer than stock, but nothing out of reason.
Hope this helps,
Keith
-Jon
10-18-01, 02:27 PM
#11
Chicago Lexus Club Moderator
Hey Keith,
What do your opinion on this. I want to get the KYB AGS shocks and Eibach lowering kit, what else should I get specificly?
What do your opinion on this. I want to get the KYB AGS shocks and Eibach lowering kit, what else should I get specificly?
Originally posted by Keith13b
The stiffer springs can travel the same distance, they are merely stronger, so, under exact conditions, they compress and re-rebound at a much quicker rate (hence the harsher ride). Remember it simply takes more energy to compress a stiffer spring, but they will still travel the same distance. I think you might be confusing energy absorbtion of the strut and spring compression. If your spring rate doesn't match your dampener (strut) rate, then you have an unstable suspension. The dampening rate needs to match the spring weight so both can function together as a whole. One will take the initial blow (spring), the other brings everything back to normal at a controled rate (strut). If they don't match, then you're in for one hell of a harsh ride because you are not dampening the car with both the shock and the spring. Both elements are key. Your spring is trying to work within its parameters, and the strut is doing something totally diferent. If the strut can't balance it out, you have an unsafe, unbalanced, bumpy ride.
Example: If you are making many hard left and right hand turns consecutively, you can slowly jack down the cars suspension down because the dampening system can not correct itself in time for the next turn. A few turns later, you have jacked down and compressed the dampening system (struts/springs) and you are riding on bumpstops. Now, the next turn or bump you encounter, you will have no suspension travel and you will most likely lose control of your vehicle.
Stiffer springs and stronger struts will prevent this from occuring. If you get a matched pair, you will have considerably better handeling, with a slight loss of ride smoothness. Mismatch the dampening system and you could knock your molars out! Many people don't research their suspension. They just want to lower their car, so they get sport springs without understanding how everything works together. They don't realize that the whole system needs to be adjusted, not just the springs.
For every day use....it really doesn't matter. Its mainy for hi performance, spirited driving; or if you like to race. I would never change just the springs and leave the stock struts then then try to haul @ss on an on ramp. Thats asking for disaster. The car would most likely handle better with the stock suspension.
If you're going to do it, do it right. Change out springs and struts and your ride won't be so bad. It will still be considerably stiffer than stock, but nothing out of reason.
Hope this helps,
Keith
The stiffer springs can travel the same distance, they are merely stronger, so, under exact conditions, they compress and re-rebound at a much quicker rate (hence the harsher ride). Remember it simply takes more energy to compress a stiffer spring, but they will still travel the same distance. I think you might be confusing energy absorbtion of the strut and spring compression. If your spring rate doesn't match your dampener (strut) rate, then you have an unstable suspension. The dampening rate needs to match the spring weight so both can function together as a whole. One will take the initial blow (spring), the other brings everything back to normal at a controled rate (strut). If they don't match, then you're in for one hell of a harsh ride because you are not dampening the car with both the shock and the spring. Both elements are key. Your spring is trying to work within its parameters, and the strut is doing something totally diferent. If the strut can't balance it out, you have an unsafe, unbalanced, bumpy ride.
Example: If you are making many hard left and right hand turns consecutively, you can slowly jack down the cars suspension down because the dampening system can not correct itself in time for the next turn. A few turns later, you have jacked down and compressed the dampening system (struts/springs) and you are riding on bumpstops. Now, the next turn or bump you encounter, you will have no suspension travel and you will most likely lose control of your vehicle.
Stiffer springs and stronger struts will prevent this from occuring. If you get a matched pair, you will have considerably better handeling, with a slight loss of ride smoothness. Mismatch the dampening system and you could knock your molars out! Many people don't research their suspension. They just want to lower their car, so they get sport springs without understanding how everything works together. They don't realize that the whole system needs to be adjusted, not just the springs.
For every day use....it really doesn't matter. Its mainy for hi performance, spirited driving; or if you like to race. I would never change just the springs and leave the stock struts then then try to haul @ss on an on ramp. Thats asking for disaster. The car would most likely handle better with the stock suspension.
If you're going to do it, do it right. Change out springs and struts and your ride won't be so bad. It will still be considerably stiffer than stock, but nothing out of reason.
Hope this helps,
Keith
10-18-01, 04:43 PM
#12
I was going to try the Eibach springs with a set of Supra Bilsteins,not sure what the outcome would be,and since this is my driver,not my racecar, I was hoping to hear from someone who'd done it first.
I've never blown out a Bilstein,and the ride is usually pretty nice.
Since the weight of both vehicles is really close(100#),and the Eibach springs for the SC are going to be close in mean value to the stock Supra values I thought it would be a good match.
The variable rate spring will also have a changing frequency,and be more tolerant as far as a shock goes.
Don't think I'd like the sound of the coils slapping together with the Eibachs though,if that's the case,I'll be happy with the stock setup.
I've never blown out a Bilstein,and the ride is usually pretty nice.
Since the weight of both vehicles is really close(100#),and the Eibach springs for the SC are going to be close in mean value to the stock Supra values I thought it would be a good match.
The variable rate spring will also have a changing frequency,and be more tolerant as far as a shock goes.
Don't think I'd like the sound of the coils slapping together with the Eibachs though,if that's the case,I'll be happy with the stock setup.
10-19-01, 05:48 AM
#13
DIrEctQL : Never dealt w/ KYB AGS's. Contact KYB and request the specs for the strut and compare to the Eibachs. Sorry I can't help you out.
But [/B]SCV8[/B] , The adjustable Bilsteins work great with the Eibachs. Not sure about the fixed supra ones though. I ran a set of the adjustables on one of my Solo II cars that was a daily driver, and they were awsome (a bit pricey though). Ride was stiff, but when adjusted to the softest ride, wasn't jarrring at all. I would call it a tight coushined ride.
Quick question, what do you mean by:
"Don't think I'd like the sound of the coils slapping together with the Eibachs though,if that's the case,I'll be happy with the stock setup."
Personally I love the feel of the Tokico Illumina's with the Eibachs for street use. They were designed to be a matched pair (before Tokico started pumping out their own springs). The setting of 1 is too soft for me, so I drove around daily with the fronts on 2 and the rears on 3 with a set of 'suspension techniques' sway bars. Nice ride for spirited driving. But if you like the Lexus softness, set it all on 1.
Koni's are great racing struts, but are too stiff for street use. Their adjustments are mainly for ageing fade, so you start them off on the softest (kidney wrenching) stiffness, and as they loosten up over time, you adjust them up to keep them stiff.
Keith
But [/B]SCV8[/B] , The adjustable Bilsteins work great with the Eibachs. Not sure about the fixed supra ones though. I ran a set of the adjustables on one of my Solo II cars that was a daily driver, and they were awsome (a bit pricey though). Ride was stiff, but when adjusted to the softest ride, wasn't jarrring at all. I would call it a tight coushined ride.
Quick question, what do you mean by:
"Don't think I'd like the sound of the coils slapping together with the Eibachs though,if that's the case,I'll be happy with the stock setup."
Personally I love the feel of the Tokico Illumina's with the Eibachs for street use. They were designed to be a matched pair (before Tokico started pumping out their own springs). The setting of 1 is too soft for me, so I drove around daily with the fronts on 2 and the rears on 3 with a set of 'suspension techniques' sway bars. Nice ride for spirited driving. But if you like the Lexus softness, set it all on 1.
Koni's are great racing struts, but are too stiff for street use. Their adjustments are mainly for ageing fade, so you start them off on the softest (kidney wrenching) stiffness, and as they loosten up over time, you adjust them up to keep them stiff.
Keith
10-19-01, 08:28 AM
#14
Driver
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yo DlrectQL! E-mail me at cdalton@hscil.net. I have the ESPELIR Tokico setup. I live in Yorkville, so it's a little bit of a ride from where your at. I work out by the FVM off of RT59, so I could drive my car to work one day and let you check it out.
10-19-01, 10:47 PM
#15
Keith,I'd read on this forum that a couple of SC owners had installed the Eibach springs,then had a strange noise over bumps;said they discovered that it was the coils binding.(?)