The Ikon

The rep. at Crutchfield said the rear are 4" in the coupes. He also said that the info they had on the coupes is "that the speakers are sound tuned to the EXACT interior dimensions of the car."

He said sometimes adding different speakers in the rear "alone" will NOT make the car sound better than the Nakimichi sys. He also added this info:

*the speakers have to be hard wired...
*you have to make a mounting bracket
*the 4" are enclosed speakers
*larger speakers can be made to fit with a lil' work
*their book did not reconmend replacing just the rear alone for optimium sound quality in the stock head unit.
*reconmended to leave it stock unless you are going to change all the speakers over time...

Now he was a good rep. not trying to push the product if it was not going to be much better than stock. *if your speaker is blown go for it you have nothing to lose...

******The rep name is Cooper. #800-388-2911 ext.# 4032

Thomas

sc300jon

Yes, that all sounds correct.

When Pioneer got the contract for the stock "Premium" system, Toyota sent them a car body to do their accustic studies. Indeed the system is "matched". This is typical even for lower grade cars; although, for a Corolla, cost is being optimized not sound quality.

-Jon

New speakers, head unit, amps, even the darned antenna!

The Ikon

Pioneer only did the base system not the "premium" 280 watt system. Nakimichi did that... Are you suggesting that Pioneer made the speakers? Or did Nak. make the speakers or did they both make speakers depending on the system you got?

Also Panasonic made the cd changer for the Nakimichi premium system for Lexus up until 97' I believe... I know they made it in the begining. I got a changer from a member here that I'll be hooking up in a few days to see if it will work once I get my 12 disc cartridge in...

The Ikon

So if I got just new speakers in the rear or front it would improve the sound over my system now?

sc300jon

Ok, I see your point. My Pioneer system was lables "Premium Sound" but I suppose that is the base level.

-Jon

moshlub

On the seat removal, grab the front-bottom of the seat-bottom and pull straight up. This bottom section is held in place by two clips and should pop out easily. Once you have the front pulled up, you should see three prongs that slip behind the seat-back and holds it in place. Lift up from the front and pull the seat-bottom towards you.

You should now see 3 bolts at the bottom of the seat-back. These three bolts are 12mm bolts and holds the seat-back in place. Once these are removed, lift the whole seat-back upwards to release the 2 clips on either side of the seat. These clips are up high towards the speakers.

To remove rear-deck trim peice, the 3rd brake-light has to be removed first. Pry the front (the side towards you) with a screwdriver. Once you have the front side out of the clips, slide the light forward. That should come out after disconnecting the cable on the left side of the light.

Now, remove the rear-deck trim peice. There are two plastic plugs that hold the trim in place. These are towards the front, right behind the seat. Remove these plugs and the rear-deck cover should come off. Remember, there are metal clips along the back, under the window, when you go to re-install it.

The subwoofer will remove with a 10mm socket. I used a universal joint to get the rear bolts out. Once you remove the four 10mm bolts, that releases the entire subwoofer mounting bracket.

The subwoofer amp is next to the subwoofer. This can also be removed by using a 10mm socket. My rear fills were 4 1/2" and these were also removed by using the 10mm socket.

I replaced my subwoofer with a 400W Pioneer sub (forgot the exact model). However, the way the speaker basket was made, I had to roll the lip of the rear-deck mount. The new sub now sits right on the gas tank. There are no known interference yet.

The reason why I chose the Pioneer sub was ... well, the rest of the system is Pioneer. :P Pioneer is one of the existing brands that made free-air subs. The other ones are MTX and Kicker. Those brands tend to be a little bit more expensive. And looking at those subs, they will be harder to mount in the stock place.

I remember reading on a different thread that the factory amp is rated at 1 ohm and will not drive any aftermarket subs. Besides, on the Pioneer sound system, this amp is only 40W.

markmaz

OK guys, you've convinced me that taking the rear seat out
is fairly easy. I'm going to re-color the back seat and taking
it out probably is the best way to do a good job. But....

How hard will it be to get the darn thing back in its' correct place? In all my experiences with the automotive "clips" they
either break when you remove a part or they never go back into the space intended.

Do, would a few of you please share your experiences with trying to put the rear seat back and bottom cushions back in the car.

Thanks, Markmaz

moshlub

These clips are pretty large metal clips. Actually, they're more like hooks, so they won't break. The only thing that might break is the rear-deck cover, since it's made of what seems like dense cardboard. The plastic plugs that hold these things may be bad too. Oh yeah, I did have a problem realigning the 3rd brake light back in place. The two clips towards the front wouldn't align properly, so I had to force it in. Other than that, the seat cushions them selves was pretty easily installed. Just make sure you align the hooks properly. Once you do it, you'll see what I mean.

Taka

yea I removed the rear seat and as you can see on pic, there were peace of glasses. I thought they are window glass but they are not transparent! it's black on back ,like arrow on the pic.
It's mystery to me..

Taka

I forgot to attach pic..