SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Gas Milage...sc300 vs. sc400

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Old 02-26-07, 06:21 PM
  #46  
ryanSC300lover
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I filled up my tank (for the first time after buying the 98), will report on this thread, after I finish the tank, and refill.

According to the trip computer(not sure how accurate it is), at 75-80mph this morning from Los Angeles to San Diego, it got as low as 26.7, and as high as 31.3 MPG.

So far, driven 174 miles, and the needle is above the 1/2 tank mark.
Old 02-26-07, 10:19 PM
  #47  
Dr.Zeus
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.
Didn't even ATTEMPT to search did ya?
Cut him some slack man
Old 02-26-07, 10:40 PM
  #48  
kaifiji
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93 SC300,125k...30 mpg....AVIATION Low Lead(aka AVGAS)...100 octane leaded FTW!
Old 02-27-07, 07:29 AM
  #49  
cip
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.
SC's SUCK at gas mileage. My Benz has 275hp/300tq and outweighs the piggy SC by a long shot, yet it still get's 5 mpg more than my sc400 (and runs circles around it).

Still, I love the dang SC enough to own a couple.
..ummmm.. Brian you usually have the correct spec's but you're off a bit this time. You have a CLK430, right? That car is 200 lbs less than the SC400 and you have an extra gear (your city mpg is the same: 18) it's the hwy where you get 25. And yeah with 15-20 more HP / 40-50 more lbs-ft TQ and the extra cog you better run circles around the car whose tech goes back 10 years prior to the MB... BTW I still think the best all-around 4-seater would be CLK55 Cab... mmm... nice
Old 12-02-07, 12:01 AM
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Luke_in_SD
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any updates on this?
Old 12-02-07, 04:21 AM
  #51  
carbuff
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I'm in favor of getting the most MPG in any car especially with gasoline prices increasing each day, but an inconsequential factor to consider when choosing a luxury car is MPG.

The SC is a luxury car, has the weight created by features and stabilization requirments. For what one gets in enjoyment and pleasure owing and driving a SC, compeitive or slightly lower mpg with other luxury brands is a small cost to pay.

I would suggest that a choice between the two models should be made on which one most appeals to the buyer.
Old 12-02-07, 06:00 AM
  #52  
SHOLEXMAN
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I saw this common discussion topic so here is my educated input. The gas cap theory is true if you have a vacuum leak issue. If it doesn't have a leaking issue when it is sitting there "hissing" don't replace it. The check engine light would come on and it would say a vacuum leak code. If you don't tighten it down on the OBDII (1996-newer) it will say a gas cap or large vacuum leak code.That also causes the computer to go into a stage called limp in mode,where the computer goes into default settings even though there is a issue.There is supposed to be pressure lines going to a charcoal canister which filters the leftover gasoline fumes. It is normal for the tank pressure to be high when you take the cap off and you have little gas or it is a really hot day.It is easier for it to turn into a gas form. The fuel filter issue goes as follows. Replace it every 30k to 40k depending on driving habits. The sediments in the fuel tanks at the gas stations gets into your systems weather you like it or not. It lowers your performance aka lower gas mileage. You do not blow into the fuel filter that is the wrong kind of test and if you are doing that get another one and don't waste your time. Doing your spark plugs,plug wires,air filter,throttle body& intake cleaning on a regular basis also help SOOOOOO much with gas. If you don't you get a condition called spark knock. Carbon buildup on the plugs or ash makes a ticking or knocking noise on acceleration. When that happens your computer automatically retards the timing because your knock sensor picks up those pulses. In turn it makes the fuel injectors open and fire longer to compensate for that issue. Gunk builds up on your throttle plate which creates more vacuum ,which makes your idle go up and you burn more gas. The air pressure in your tires also makes a big difference. If you are running in the lower 20psi range you might want to add some air. With this vehicle I would run 32 psi,too much and you will bald the tires in the center. It is good to check your air pressure on a monthly basis because if you don't drive a lot pressure slowly goes down. That is my input PM me if you have any other questions.Thanks >>>>SHOLEXMAN

Last edited by SHOLEXMAN; 12-02-07 at 08:51 AM.
Old 12-02-07, 08:06 AM
  #53  
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to sum what sholexman said...

Try to make your car the way u bought it from the dealership..

New intake filter
New sparks
New sprark wires
New Oil
New tranny oil
New caps
blah blah blah

Golden number... 32psi
Old 12-02-07, 08:46 AM
  #54  
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Welcome SHOLEXMAN. 4 posts and already something thats not retarded!
Old 12-02-07, 01:18 PM
  #55  
Luke_in_SD
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great post!!! will do a run down on all that
Old 12-03-07, 09:58 PM
  #56  
C-Thrilla
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Didn't buy the car for gas mileage, I bought it to make my heart race! I mainly drive it like i stole it! don't really pay attention.
Old 12-03-07, 10:57 PM
  #57  
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i only get 16-17 mpg 94 sc3
Old 12-03-07, 11:15 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by SHOLEXMAN
I saw this common discussion topic so here is my educated input. The gas cap theory is true if you have a vacuum leak issue. If it doesn't have a leaking issue when it is sitting there "hissing" don't replace it. The check engine light would come on and it would say a vacuum leak code. If you don't tighten it down on the OBDII (1996-newer) it will say a gas cap or large vacuum leak code.That also causes the computer to go into a stage called limp in mode,where the computer goes into default settings even though there is a issue.There is supposed to be pressure lines going to a charcoal canister which filters the leftover gasoline fumes. It is normal for the tank pressure to be high when you take the cap off and you have little gas or it is a really hot day.It is easier for it to turn into a gas form. The fuel filter issue goes as follows. Replace it every 30k to 40k depending on driving habits. The sediments in the fuel tanks at the gas stations gets into your systems weather you like it or not. It lowers your performance aka lower gas mileage. You do not blow into the fuel filter that is the wrong kind of test and if you are doing that get another one and don't waste your time. Doing your spark plugs,plug wires,air filter,throttle body& intake cleaning on a regular basis also help SOOOOOO much with gas. If you don't you get a condition called spark knock. Carbon buildup on the plugs or ash makes a ticking or knocking noise on acceleration. When that happens your computer automatically retards the timing because your knock sensor picks up those pulses. In turn it makes the fuel injectors open and fire longer to compensate for that issue. Gunk builds up on your throttle plate which creates more vacuum ,which makes your idle go up and you burn more gas. The air pressure in your tires also makes a big difference. If you are running in the lower 20psi range you might want to add some air. With this vehicle I would run 32 psi,too much and you will bald the tires in the center. It is good to check your air pressure on a monthly basis because if you don't drive a lot pressure slowly goes down. That is my input PM me if you have any other questions.Thanks >>>>SHOLEXMAN
Awesome info!

A tune-up definetly helps. After i changed a few things I noticed a huge difference in performance and mpg.

I still have yet to change plugs, wires, caps, rotors and fuel filter.
Old 12-04-07, 04:40 PM
  #59  
$loJam
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Upgrade to a 98+ sc4. I get 20 mpg city with 290hp/300tq
Old 12-04-07, 05:12 PM
  #60  
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my 1997 SC300 w/ 150100 mileage, and i get 370miles for my full tank.


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