neo_tran

Anybody experience this with your stereo system? I'm only using 500 watts. Only valid feedback i got was to replace my alternator with a higher power one. Any of you did this?

Local dealer told me to replace my factory head unit with an aftermarket deck and said that it will solve the problem. Huh...i don't think so. I think the dude was trying to get my money.

Feedbacks i've gotten said that adding capacitors won't work either. It won't store enough power and put more stress on the alternator.

There's got to be someone in the same boat as i am. Anybody with a system 500W and up with or without the problem please reply. I want to be driving with my system in full power. The reason why i bought a system.

FYI: I took out the mat that covers the vent to the gas tank in the trunk and also took out the middle rear speaker and also took out two metal plates that was on the rear dashboard next to the two rear speakers (I think the nakamachi system adds more speakers in this spot). Whatever the case, the system sounds a LOT better after that. I would highly recommend this setup. The dealer that installed it had no clue as to why the system wasn't up to par.

gadgetSC

You might want to consider an OPTIMA Battery. They have a deep cycle (Yellow Top) battery that is suggested for applications like stereos or other accessories that draw more current than the average battery.

gadgetSC

Keith13b

iTrader: (3)

There are several ways to overcome this.

First, check the ground cable on your battery, and clean the connections on the alt and battery terminal. This just might solve the problem or make it a little less of a problem. 500 watts should not dim the lights!

Whom ever told you that a capacitor wouldn't solve the problem obviously has little knowledge of what they do or how they work. A 1 or a 1.5 farad cap would eliminate the problem by allowing the amps to pull power of the cap as opposed to the cars electrical system. Hence the VERY SPECIFIC REASON THEY ARE USED FOR CAR AUDIO is to prevent excessive draw over a high resiatance line (i.e. the factory power wire). A 1 farad cap is good up to a 1500Watt setup, so it should serve your needs. They run about a $100 bucks at most car audio shops ($79-$109) depending on on brand.

A new alt is your safest bet, but I would get it in conjunction with a cap. You need to make sure that your electrical connections are in tip top shape, or else a new alt won't do a bit of good. I'm willing to bet money, you have a poor ground somewhere, and that is causing the problem. Check your connections again, before you go out and spend $$$ to solve the problem.


Keith

gadgetSC

Forgot to mention that a large cap might solve your problem as Keith pointed out. It is also a good Idea to check your battery cables as many here have had problems with in the past. Definately cheaper than a large Cap, expensive optima battery or a new alt.

gadgetSC

London Bill

As Keith said if you get a Cap installed this will stop the amp from pulling big drains on the battery, exactly what it is designed to do.

Bad Earth - There have been a few posts regarding the stock earth cable from the battery deteriorating on the SC and needing to be replaced, it's not a major job but worth checking out.

Unless you have some real M/F amps I doubt you will need an additional battery or larger alternator, have the alternator output checked anyway.

The Optima battery is a good option but may not be required, I replaced my tired battery with a standard replacement from my local car supermarket for about £45GBP and this copes with 2 x Kenwood amps totalling 350w RMS (1x150w 10" Rockford on shelf/deck, 4x50w Fr & Rr speakers). Although with the winter setting in here we will see if this battery can cope with the extra drain from lights/heaters, etc and the reduced voltage on cold days.

importtoys

Just get a cap . 1 Farad @20 vdc and you should be fine.
I run high current amps in my cars and have never gone past a simple battery upgrade and a cap (one of the cars come stock with 2 batteries in the trunck...makes it nice for installs )
Just make sure that you get a good brand. Phoenix gold,stinger Rockford fosgate, Alumapro etc...

lexlyf

Keith, Gadget & London Bill all have & make good points. The Cap will probably be your least expensive option and the battery will be the second. If for some reason neither of the 1st two options don't solve your problem then a high output alternator would run some cheese.

Do you guys think its safe to somehow wire the caps so that they their power is isolated upon turning off the key? I know someone who has them wired so that they are on constantly (even when key removed) & it causes the battery to drain when the car is parked for days at a time.