SC400 Dyno Results
12-09-01, 12:04 PM
#16
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Interesting that the back cylinders had the best compression. I'm simply going to ask the dealer when the plugs and wires were replaced last... if they put new ones in at the 60k service for example, I'll leave it alone. I'll check out the resistance this evening to be sure.
The next set of dyno runs will include a tailpipe sniffer.
The next set of dyno runs will include a tailpipe sniffer.
Last edited by MadMaxSC400; 12-09-01 at 12:07 PM.
12-11-01, 05:47 AM
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Originally posted by MadMaxSC400
Apparently the sparkplug wires on my car are the originals, heh...
Time to replace them.
Anyone got any preferences?
Apparently the sparkplug wires on my car are the originals, heh...
Time to replace them.
Anyone got any preferences?
I have used Magnacor wires on many of my cars. However, you should call magnacor to insure the lengths are correct as it seems the runway and looming of the wires appears to be critical in the SC400. They make a magnificent wire. It is available in 4 thicknesses, 7mm, 8mm 8.5mm and 10mm. I have not mic'ed the stock wires to see if the thicker 8.5mm magnacors would pose an installation issue (like being too tight).
UZ332 has posted the lengths of a wire set above, however I am not sure if the dimensions are for the factory set of Lexus wires? Also are his lengths measured from tip to tip? We need to have someone mic a factory set to post the OD of the wire. Sure would be nice.
Last edited by Red93sc400; 12-11-01 at 05:52 AM.
12-11-01, 04:39 PM
#23
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The only ones from Kragen that were cheaper (by like 5 bucks) than the OEM wires were some I'd never heard of before. I replaced the wires with the Lexus ones last night, and as far as I can tell it's pretty much fixed my starting problem. It still dips slightly, but as far as I know that's normal. No more sputtering. Also, the car runs stronger and smoother.
12-11-01, 06:04 PM
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Those lengths I quoted wouldn't be accurate enough to get a custom set made.
Here in Australia a genuine set of leads cost $390 !! ($202 US !). Is it right they only cost $90 over there?
Being so thin nothing will fit as well as OEM - it would be very nice to stick some Magnecor ones in if they would fit ($280 Aust = $145 US).
Here in Australia a genuine set of leads cost $390 !! ($202 US !). Is it right they only cost $90 over there?
Being so thin nothing will fit as well as OEM - it would be very nice to stick some Magnecor ones in if they would fit ($280 Aust = $145 US).
12-11-01, 06:08 PM
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Originally posted by MadMaxSC400
I replaced the wires with the Lexus ones last night, and as far as I can tell it's pretty much fixed my starting problem. It still dips slightly, but as far as I know that's normal. No more sputtering. Also, the car runs stronger and smoother.
I replaced the wires with the Lexus ones last night, and as far as I can tell it's pretty much fixed my starting problem. It still dips slightly, but as far as I know that's normal. No more sputtering. Also, the car runs stronger and smoother.
I have not yet tackled the replacement of the SC400 wire set. We have the same year SC400 so you seem to have this under your belt. Can you walk us thru a step by step procedure for changing the wires? My wires are well hidden under what appear to be black slotted wireway covers. These are inside the valve covers or above them as it were and also there is a cover in between the two rotors which are in front of the engine.
It looks like a clean setup, however it looks labour intensive to pull off those covers and reinstall them. Do you have to remove other parts like all of the air intake parts as well? I thought in looking at it that the air intake system would have to be removed to be able to get at the passenger side rear spark plug area.
So if you could, perhaps can you give us a step by step process and things to watch out for, etc.? Thanks.
12-12-01, 01:00 AM
#27
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I will dyno the car once to get a baseline before I start tuning again.. with the new wires. I put and ohm meter to the old wires and a number of them were open or barely registered on the meter.
The shop manual details how to get it apart...
BUY THE OEM WIRES... trust me, aftermarket parts don't have the stuff you're gonna need, and lengths have to be near perfect.
All bolts are 10 mm.
You have to take the upper intake part out, the 3 air lines that go over the valve cover also have to come off, just detaching at one end or the other is fine. There's 3 black plastic covers that sit over the wire set, a large one on the right, a small one on the left that are both grille plastic. The one that has the engine number on it is the middle one. There's 4 bolts on each side holding the valve cover centers on, they're all one piece going up to and including the timing belt covers. Those come off and reveal the wires and adapters fully. Unbolt the plastic holders (two gold color bolts on each side) but don't remove them until all the plug adapters are out. Twist the wires on the timing gear one way or the other to break loose the rubber, and pull em. Use pliers to extract the plug adapters in the motor. Do the easiest looking ones first always, it's better to get one out and know how long they are so you can plan how to take the rest out.
It's about a 2 hour job.
If your plugs are old, or you think they are and want to replace them, this is a good time to do it.
The shop manual details how to get it apart...
BUY THE OEM WIRES... trust me, aftermarket parts don't have the stuff you're gonna need, and lengths have to be near perfect.
All bolts are 10 mm.
You have to take the upper intake part out, the 3 air lines that go over the valve cover also have to come off, just detaching at one end or the other is fine. There's 3 black plastic covers that sit over the wire set, a large one on the right, a small one on the left that are both grille plastic. The one that has the engine number on it is the middle one. There's 4 bolts on each side holding the valve cover centers on, they're all one piece going up to and including the timing belt covers. Those come off and reveal the wires and adapters fully. Unbolt the plastic holders (two gold color bolts on each side) but don't remove them until all the plug adapters are out. Twist the wires on the timing gear one way or the other to break loose the rubber, and pull em. Use pliers to extract the plug adapters in the motor. Do the easiest looking ones first always, it's better to get one out and know how long they are so you can plan how to take the rest out.
It's about a 2 hour job.
If your plugs are old, or you think they are and want to replace them, this is a good time to do it.
12-12-01, 08:43 AM
#29
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Here is some more directions for the tune up:
***[Quote by VQT]LS400 and SC400 have the same setup. It's not that hard.
For the left (driver side) take the two covers off with 10 mm socket. For the right it a little tricky. take the air filter housing off, remember to take off the MAF connector and the hose off. Then the hose that connect to the throttle body, there is a bolt on the back side of the body. Don't get discourage if youcan't get it off the first 5 min. it will come off and the next time you know what to do. Now take the covers off. If you're buying OEM wires, the wires are number so you don't have to worry about which wires goes where. try to remember which wire goes to which clip holes will make you feel better. Spark plugs change are easy too, take it easy and remember to use ANTISEIZE on the treads so it easier the next time around.
My first time took me less than 2 hrs. that's because I know how to take the right side air box and the throttle body hose off already. If it your first time it may take a lot longer but you can do the whole thing with a 10mm socket 1/4 rachet, a screw driver, a plier to loosen the hose clips and spark plug socket 3/8 rachet extension and one of those bendable thingy.
Hint: When put thing back use DW40 to lub the hoses so it go back in easy. Twist the hoses/spark plugs wire a little before trying to pull it off
If you want to replace the caps and rotors also, it will take you a little longer, but it worth it. To change caps and rotors you need to take off the timing chain cover and it involved take the belt off, radiator hose off...and a lot of back ache. I drop a few bolts while doing it so it took me a lot longer to look for the damn bolts because I needed to raise the car up, take the bottom cover off...so be careful not to drop anything. Do it slow and you come out ahead because you don't spnt haft the time looking for drop bolts.
Another alternative is pay someone to do it, I am cheap and I like to learn how to do the easy stuff.
I paid $91 the set of OEM wires from Carson Toyota. ~$6 per Nep plug, ~$15-16 cap, $8 rotor. Rememeber there are two cap and two rotors for this car.
I'll pay when I can't do it myself. Have fun working on your car.[Quote] ****
The tune-up is a do it yourself type of job. From start to finish with a buddy, it is a 45 min job easily. Alone as Max and VQT stated up to 1 - 2 hours.
As suggested replace the plugs... It makes no sense not to after the time spent on the wires. I changed the dist. caps also.
My only "hard spot" was getting the # 8 spark plug out(it is restictive under the throttle body)..
MAKE SURE YOU USE SOME MECHANIC(or some regular) GLOVES... If you love your knuckles, I use the $13 dollar Mechanix type from Autozone or you can use the $2 brown work gloves from Wal-Mart
.
good luck
***[Quote by VQT]LS400 and SC400 have the same setup. It's not that hard.
For the left (driver side) take the two covers off with 10 mm socket. For the right it a little tricky. take the air filter housing off, remember to take off the MAF connector and the hose off. Then the hose that connect to the throttle body, there is a bolt on the back side of the body. Don't get discourage if youcan't get it off the first 5 min. it will come off and the next time you know what to do. Now take the covers off. If you're buying OEM wires, the wires are number so you don't have to worry about which wires goes where. try to remember which wire goes to which clip holes will make you feel better. Spark plugs change are easy too, take it easy and remember to use ANTISEIZE on the treads so it easier the next time around.
My first time took me less than 2 hrs. that's because I know how to take the right side air box and the throttle body hose off already. If it your first time it may take a lot longer but you can do the whole thing with a 10mm socket 1/4 rachet, a screw driver, a plier to loosen the hose clips and spark plug socket 3/8 rachet extension and one of those bendable thingy.
Hint: When put thing back use DW40 to lub the hoses so it go back in easy. Twist the hoses/spark plugs wire a little before trying to pull it off
If you want to replace the caps and rotors also, it will take you a little longer, but it worth it. To change caps and rotors you need to take off the timing chain cover and it involved take the belt off, radiator hose off...and a lot of back ache. I drop a few bolts while doing it so it took me a lot longer to look for the damn bolts because I needed to raise the car up, take the bottom cover off...so be careful not to drop anything. Do it slow and you come out ahead because you don't spnt haft the time looking for drop bolts.
Another alternative is pay someone to do it, I am cheap and I like to learn how to do the easy stuff.
I paid $91 the set of OEM wires from Carson Toyota. ~$6 per Nep plug, ~$15-16 cap, $8 rotor. Rememeber there are two cap and two rotors for this car.
I'll pay when I can't do it myself. Have fun working on your car.[Quote] ****
The tune-up is a do it yourself type of job. From start to finish with a buddy, it is a 45 min job easily. Alone as Max and VQT stated up to 1 - 2 hours.
As suggested replace the plugs... It makes no sense not to after the time spent on the wires. I changed the dist. caps also.
My only "hard spot" was getting the # 8 spark plug out(it is restictive under the throttle body)..
MAKE SURE YOU USE SOME MECHANIC(or some regular) GLOVES... If you love your knuckles, I use the $13 dollar Mechanix type from Autozone or you can use the $2 brown work gloves from Wal-Mart
.good luck
Last edited by The Ikon; 12-12-01 at 08:49 AM.
12-12-01, 04:56 PM
#30
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That's quite a difference, Peter. Is Aaron's SC400 an American California car? My car was a California bought/smogged car. I see I'm making a lot more torque, but then the highest RPM areas are dropping off. I wonder if some more exhaust tweaking will fix that. I'm at Weapon-R right now waiting to give Leo my car for the ECU and fuel system upgrade. I hope the results are good, if they're anything like my friend's it'll be pretty wild. I'll make another post here when I get a final dyno sheet up.