95% done some recent pics of 500 rwhp beast
12-12-07, 04:30 AM
#80
thanks again folks for the kind words.. car should be finally tuned tomm hoping to get close to 500 rwhp .. i will be happy with 450-480 for this phase then mid next year go haltech and maybe increase injectors to 650 cc and get in the high 500's
wheels are & swiss 20x9 front and 20x11 rear
see reg i told you once its dropped they would camber and tuck in
wheels are & swiss 20x9 front and 20x11 rear
see reg i told you once its dropped they would camber and tuck in
12-12-07, 07:12 AM
#81
Instructor
Ed, I must say your car looks very nice 
The body kit and the wheels mesh very well!
In regards to your performance goals: attaining 500 rwhp plus on stock N/A motor will be difficult and not very safe, but this is clearly my opinion.
To be able to make that kind of power daily without going with a EMS among other things is nearly almost imposible safely. You have to remember that the N/A block is not a GTE motor thus is does not have oil squirters in the block therefore it cannot handle a lot off stress/load for a continued period. Even though you have upgraded your head gasket it is still not enough & safe to run high boost daily (18psi max). Anything more than that you will limit the life of the motor. To maximize the dbb turbo you have, you will need to change the motor or rebuild the N/A motor upgrading the pistons, rods etc, complete fuel system with at least 720cc injectors with a standalone/EMS so you can play with the timing and run more psi on race gas without batting an eye.
**The key to making serious power (500rwhp plus) is having the right combination!
I for one have spent a lot of money and time setting up my supra and have learned a great deal these past few years about what works and what does not. To give you an example; I have a built 1jz with big cams head work, 720cc injectors & complete fuel system as well as engine management with a rev capability of 8K rpm and at 18 psi on pump gas I am making 500 at the wheels daily.
I seriously recommend if you want consistent daily 500rwhp you invest in a 1jz or 2jz motor. Building a fast car can be very expensive if not done right.
Nonetheless I am glad you were finally able to get the car you have always wanted. Good Luck! and I look forward to seeing your big power dyno numbers on the forums
Al
The body kit and the wheels mesh very well! In regards to your performance goals: attaining 500 rwhp plus on stock N/A motor will be difficult and not very safe, but this is clearly my opinion.
To be able to make that kind of power daily without going with a EMS among other things is nearly almost imposible safely. You have to remember that the N/A block is not a GTE motor thus is does not have oil squirters in the block therefore it cannot handle a lot off stress/load for a continued period. Even though you have upgraded your head gasket it is still not enough & safe to run high boost daily (18psi max). Anything more than that you will limit the life of the motor. To maximize the dbb turbo you have, you will need to change the motor or rebuild the N/A motor upgrading the pistons, rods etc, complete fuel system with at least 720cc injectors with a standalone/EMS so you can play with the timing and run more psi on race gas without batting an eye.
**The key to making serious power (500rwhp plus) is having the right combination!
I for one have spent a lot of money and time setting up my supra and have learned a great deal these past few years about what works and what does not. To give you an example; I have a built 1jz with big cams head work, 720cc injectors & complete fuel system as well as engine management with a rev capability of 8K rpm and at 18 psi on pump gas I am making 500 at the wheels daily.
I seriously recommend if you want consistent daily 500rwhp you invest in a 1jz or 2jz motor. Building a fast car can be very expensive if not done right.
Nonetheless I am glad you were finally able to get the car you have always wanted. Good Luck! and I look forward to seeing your big power dyno numbers on the forums
Al
thanks again folks for the kind words.. car should be finally tuned tomm hoping to get close to 500 rwhp .. i will be happy with 450-480 for this phase then mid next year go haltech and maybe increase injectors to 650 cc and get in the high 500's
wheels are & swiss 20x9 front and 20x11 rear
see reg i told you once its dropped they would camber and tuck in
wheels are & swiss 20x9 front and 20x11 rear
see reg i told you once its dropped they would camber and tuck in
Last edited by alsilverbullet; 12-12-07 at 12:58 PM.
12-12-07, 07:59 AM
#82
Racer
Al you are very wrong in many ways, but just one of them that I noticed right off the bat is you saying the NA cant handle the same power the GTE bottom end can because of the oil squirters...
Many high horsepower GTE's (1000+), actually remove the oil squirters. They are not neccesary. The pistons and rods, crank and block are made out of the same materials and has been PROVEN to hold the power. Look at DaveH or Probezilla.. Stock NA bottom end pushing 800rwhp in a drag car.
Many high horsepower GTE's (1000+), actually remove the oil squirters. They are not neccesary. The pistons and rods, crank and block are made out of the same materials and has been PROVEN to hold the power. Look at DaveH or Probezilla.. Stock NA bottom end pushing 800rwhp in a drag car.
12-12-07, 10:41 AM
#83
Instructor
Al you are very wrong in many ways, but just one of them that I noticed right off the bat is you saying the NA cant handle the same power the GTE bottom end can because of the oil squirters...
Many high horsepower GTE's (1000+), actually remove the oil squirters. They are not neccesary. The pistons and rods, crank and block are made out of the same materials and has been PROVEN to hold the power. Look at DaveH or Probezilla.. Stock NA bottom end pushing 800rwhp in a drag car.
Many high horsepower GTE's (1000+), actually remove the oil squirters. They are not neccesary. The pistons and rods, crank and block are made out of the same materials and has been PROVEN to hold the power. Look at DaveH or Probezilla.. Stock NA bottom end pushing 800rwhp in a drag car.
I said a built N/A block can handle more HP and boost than a stock N/A block. I dont think Ed is building a drag car but a reliable street performance car? Drag cars are used for their intended purpose and are not daily drivers. It is a known fact and you can verify this with any known performance shop e.g Titan, SP performance to name a few whom have built fast street cars they will all tell you to go with a GTE block if you want to make 500 rwhp plus bcos they are built for that purpose. Perhaps you should ask yourself why most of the fast street SC's you see swap over to a 2jz or even a 1jz? Not to mention the amount of $$ you will spend to build a stellar N/A motor you can buy a low mileage 2JZ motor and call it a day. In the end it all depends on how deep your pockets are and how fast you want to go. My post was simply to say that going a 1jz or 2jz route is less expensive and you can make the power you want without spending tons of $$Thanks
Also just so you know the oil squirters play a huge role in a engines longetivity when running high boost bcos they keep the pistons cooler.On the other hand if you are building a full race motor with tight tolerances with CP pistons etc then you can get away with oil squirters.
There is a reason why Toyota put them on the TT motors.
Last edited by alsilverbullet; 12-12-07 at 01:00 PM.
12-12-07, 01:53 PM
#84
Clearly you missed my point I said a built N/A block can handle more HP and boost than a stock N/A block. I dont think Ed is building a drag car but a reliable street performance car? Drag cars are used for their intended purpose and are not daily drivers. It is a known fact and you can verify this with any known performance shop e.g Titan, SP performance to name a few whom have built fast street cars they will all tell you to go with a GTE block if you want to make 500 rwhp plus bcos they are built for that purpose. Perhaps you should ask yourself why most of the fast street SC's you see swap over to a 2jz or even a 1jz? Not to mention the amount of $$ you will spend to build a stellar N/A motor you can buy a low mileage 2JZ motor and call it a day. In the end it all depends on how deep your pockets are and how fast you want to go. My post was simply to say that going a 1jz or 2jz route is less expensive and you can make the power you want without spending tons of $$
Thanks
Also just so you know the oil squirters play a huge role in a engines longetivity when running high boost bcos they keep the pistons cooler.On the other hand if you are building a full race motor with tight tolerances with CP pistons etc then you can get away with oil squirters.
There is a reason why Toyota put them on the TT motors.
I said a built N/A block can handle more HP and boost than a stock N/A block. I dont think Ed is building a drag car but a reliable street performance car? Drag cars are used for their intended purpose and are not daily drivers. It is a known fact and you can verify this with any known performance shop e.g Titan, SP performance to name a few whom have built fast street cars they will all tell you to go with a GTE block if you want to make 500 rwhp plus bcos they are built for that purpose. Perhaps you should ask yourself why most of the fast street SC's you see swap over to a 2jz or even a 1jz? Not to mention the amount of $$ you will spend to build a stellar N/A motor you can buy a low mileage 2JZ motor and call it a day. In the end it all depends on how deep your pockets are and how fast you want to go. My post was simply to say that going a 1jz or 2jz route is less expensive and you can make the power you want without spending tons of $$Thanks
Also just so you know the oil squirters play a huge role in a engines longetivity when running high boost bcos they keep the pistons cooler.On the other hand if you are building a full race motor with tight tolerances with CP pistons etc then you can get away with oil squirters.
There is a reason why Toyota put them on the TT motors.
you are right about timing issues , you are right about oil squirters
but that really applies to really big and lofty hp goals
ge block and gte are identical with the exception of the squirters that help to cool piston but a high quality oil cooler postioned in that right place can accomplish 955 of what oil squirters can do..
timing becomes a issue to run safely above the 550+ range because the stock ecu has the ability to retard timing by about 10% which is considered safe..
my plans include next year to upgrade to haltech intercepter or e6 for full control of fuel and timing , i do alrready have a r154 with a stage 3 act clutch in there so the platform is ripe
my compression # are almost perfect across the board , the motor i have was wel maintained and tight
i might actually goto a nice low milage 1 jz down the road instead of haltech but that remains to be decided
2jgte route is not cost effective for my hp goals whereas i am really not gaining anything substantial
rem my goals are a solid 500-550 period which is a sneeze for ge motor with the right mix of parts
12-12-07, 02:29 PM
#86
^^ agreed!!!
lexforlife, instead of a new ecu, why don't u save the extra bucks for a new intake mani that doesnt require u to route the I/C piping all the way across the engine bay and back. That could increase turbo response and also makes a few horses by freeing up the intake. The bay looks beautiful, but all that piping could be removed and re-routed...just a suggestion, but do what u want, either way it will still kick ***!!
lexforlife, instead of a new ecu, why don't u save the extra bucks for a new intake mani that doesnt require u to route the I/C piping all the way across the engine bay and back. That could increase turbo response and also makes a few horses by freeing up the intake. The bay looks beautiful, but all that piping could be removed and re-routed...just a suggestion, but do what u want, either way it will still kick ***!!
12-12-07, 02:42 PM
#87
Lexus Test Driver
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silver bullit....ge block can handle alll the power and more.....controlling the timming and fuel is the issue
i daily drove a 440 rwhp na-t sc300 for 5 years...and never had an issue besides breaking w58 trannys...on spray it was hitying 540 but never really sprayed it
Jeff
i daily drove a 440 rwhp na-t sc300 for 5 years...and never had an issue besides breaking w58 trannys...on spray it was hitying 540 but never really sprayed it
Jeff
12-12-07, 02:45 PM
#88
silver bullit....ge block can handle alll the power and more.....controlling the timming and fuel is the issue
i daily drove a 440 rwhp na-t sc300 for 5 years...and never had an issue besides breaking w58 trannys...on spray it was hitying 540 but never really sprayed it
Jeff
i daily drove a 440 rwhp na-t sc300 for 5 years...and never had an issue besides breaking w58 trannys...on spray it was hitying 540 but never really sprayed it
Jeff
12-12-07, 03:47 PM
#89
Instructor
Ed understand by no means am I trying to rain on your parade but simply making a point. Knowing your driving style I felt a 1jz or 2jz would be a better fit. Hp is like a drug and never enough. You say you only want 500 rwhp...right....I will give you a few months and that will be slow after that dodge neon goes flying buy you on the highway. Believe me I have been there. With either GTE motor you have many options such as cams etc and require not very much to make over 500 rwhp in the event you want more power. Never the less this is all relative and we all do what works best for us so hurry up and post those dyno numbers already!
Al
Al
12-12-07, 05:52 PM
#90
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i am no expert either but i read what he had...including a auto coture kit..
the GE block will handle plenty of power daily driven and no issues...
im not gonna get into a disagreement over this but the major issue is controlling fuel and timming...get that done and it will make the power allday long that ed wants....