Best place to splice in 2nd sub
#1
Best place to splice in 2nd sub
Alright, I'm gonna turn this into a How-To ("adding an additional subwoofer & amp" sound good?), So I want to do this right...
I've run the Power cable up to the battery (through the wheel well -- no worries there)
I've also spliced in the remote power on wire from the original amp (fat purple wire right guys ) So What I'm wondering is the best place to splice the audio signal from. I've got a low pass right on the amp, so no worries about that either. Just wondering where to splice into..... Any advice?
I've run the Power cable up to the battery (through the wheel well -- no worries there)
I've also spliced in the remote power on wire from the original amp (fat purple wire right guys ) So What I'm wondering is the best place to splice the audio signal from. I've got a low pass right on the amp, so no worries about that either. Just wondering where to splice into..... Any advice?
#2
Did you cut the big purple wire and just connect it to the new amp? You're using the wires from the amp next to the factory sub, right?
I'm trying to figure out how to do the same thing. But I'm completely new to car audio.
So you remove the entire plastic inner wheel well on the front drivers side to get the power wire through? No short cuts?
And what is this low pass on the amp you're talking about? Sorry if my questions seem stupid. I'm just new to this. I think I know what low pass is, but where on the amp?
That fat purple wire is in this picture. Next to the fat red wire. Correct? I wanna be 100% sure because after I hooked it up the way I thought it should be, nothing worked for me...
I'm trying to figure out how to do the same thing. But I'm completely new to car audio.
So you remove the entire plastic inner wheel well on the front drivers side to get the power wire through? No short cuts?
And what is this low pass on the amp you're talking about? Sorry if my questions seem stupid. I'm just new to this. I think I know what low pass is, but where on the amp?
That fat purple wire is in this picture. Next to the fat red wire. Correct? I wanna be 100% sure because after I hooked it up the way I thought it should be, nothing worked for me...
#3
go here:
Use my diagram located here:
Lexus stereo Hackensack
If you use the Basic Stock Stereo diagram, the Sub connections are the same as for the Premium Sound. Nak is different. But from the pics I see you have the Pioneer.
You have power ran, use the ACC for remote turn on.
Splice into the line in, this is rca level input - low level frequency.
Hope it helps.
Lexus stereo Hackensack
If you use the Basic Stock Stereo diagram, the Sub connections are the same as for the Premium Sound. Nak is different. But from the pics I see you have the Pioneer.
You have power ran, use the ACC for remote turn on.
Splice into the line in, this is rca level input - low level frequency.
Hope it helps.
#4
oh yeah, your other questions....
So you remove the entire plastic inner wheel well on the front drivers side to get the power wire through? No short cuts?
And what is this low pass on the amp you're talking about?
'High Pass' - Everything above your selected frequency is let through. and
'Low Pass' - Everything below your selected frequency is let through.
Most amplifiers designed for use with subwoofers can do this. One of the best amps for this is the JL Audio 500/1 these are on ebay for around 300.
The Sub signal from the stock system is fairly low volts (the sub is a 2 ohm sub) and I have found better results using the rear channel inputs for external sub inputs.
#5
Alright, the problem I see with splicing into the Line in cable there, is that There is not enough wire to splice into the original system, and leave the original system intact. I had the entire back seat out, and the top rear trim panel and what not, and was staring at it for a good 15-20 minutes just trying to figure it out.
So the big question is where to splice into the input, and how?
So the big question is where to splice into the input, and how?
#6
You dont cut to splice do you?
Plenty of room if you use a snap on connector for the splice. Will work fine for this application. Go to Radio Shack.
See here for description:
tyco splice connectors
This way you simply snap this on and you are good to go. I wrap mine with electrical tape for added strength. These were used when I tapped the ECU for the SAFC also.
Have a great day,
Peter
See here for description:
tyco splice connectors
This way you simply snap this on and you are good to go. I wrap mine with electrical tape for added strength. These were used when I tapped the ECU for the SAFC also.
Have a great day,
Peter
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#8
cut em if you want
Cut them if you never plan to use the stock system, or sell the car with the stock system..
I pulled out all the OEM stereo equipment in mine and sold them on ebay since the car is mine forever, mine mine mine mine mine. dont touch!.
sorry got carried away....
I pulled out all the OEM stereo equipment in mine and sold them on ebay since the car is mine forever, mine mine mine mine mine. dont touch!.
sorry got carried away....
#9
ive just used the signal coming to the sub in the back
so taht way the amp only gets the frequency that is coming from the amp.....instead of all the higher pitched stuff
just run your RCAs off of those two wires
so taht way the amp only gets the frequency that is coming from the amp.....instead of all the higher pitched stuff
just run your RCAs off of those two wires
#10
ahh but the problem with that is now you have the powered signal (all 40 Watts ) none the less, is that bad for the amp to have an imput from another amp? You'd think it wouldn't the be the healthiest thing for it. Follow what I'm saying
2nd AMP || Stock Sub
^ Stock amp ^
Is this healthy for the 2nd amp?
2nd AMP || Stock Sub
^ Stock amp ^
Is this healthy for the 2nd amp?
Last edited by SupraCoup3; 01-29-02 at 06:52 PM.
#11
933005spd,
Regarding diagram you have here:
http://www.mycrobyte.com/lexus/scstereo.html
Is that supposed to be from the amp on the rear deck next to the factory sub? Or is that from the amp in the trunk? I was looking at that diagram and this one:
http://www.mycrobyte.com/lexus/img17.jpg
they're not the same, right? Which one is which? Thanks!
I'm still trying to hook up an aftermarket amp to power my aftermarket 10" free air sub that is sitting in the factory position.
Another question. I already cut the wires in the sub that sits on the rear deck. Was that a bad idea? Do I need to hook those wires back up?
Regarding diagram you have here:
http://www.mycrobyte.com/lexus/scstereo.html
Is that supposed to be from the amp on the rear deck next to the factory sub? Or is that from the amp in the trunk? I was looking at that diagram and this one:
http://www.mycrobyte.com/lexus/img17.jpg
they're not the same, right? Which one is which? Thanks!
I'm still trying to hook up an aftermarket amp to power my aftermarket 10" free air sub that is sitting in the factory position.
Another question. I already cut the wires in the sub that sits on the rear deck. Was that a bad idea? Do I need to hook those wires back up?
#12
here ya go...
the scstereo.html file is for the stock sc stereo system without the cd changer.
This system has the sub amp where the cd changer is for the premium sound system. The sub amp in the stock and premium sound use the same pinout.
The img17.jpg shows the pinout for the actual plug coming out of the 4 channel sc premium sound amp.
In other words the two images are different views of different amps.
I presume you have the premium sound since you said the sub amp is in the rear deck. Since you are simply trying to use the sub signal, use the pinouts shown in scstereo.html under the subwoofer amp heading. Remember this view is of the socket, not the actual plug. You can tell which is a plug or socket easily, the numbers go from low to high (left to right) on the plug, on the socket they go from high to low.
Hope this helps. No biggie with cutting the wires, just be sure to insulate any open ends.
This system has the sub amp where the cd changer is for the premium sound system. The sub amp in the stock and premium sound use the same pinout.
The img17.jpg shows the pinout for the actual plug coming out of the 4 channel sc premium sound amp.
In other words the two images are different views of different amps.
I presume you have the premium sound since you said the sub amp is in the rear deck. Since you are simply trying to use the sub signal, use the pinouts shown in scstereo.html under the subwoofer amp heading. Remember this view is of the socket, not the actual plug. You can tell which is a plug or socket easily, the numbers go from low to high (left to right) on the plug, on the socket they go from high to low.
Hope this helps. No biggie with cutting the wires, just be sure to insulate any open ends.
#13
Oops, I meant that I cut the wires in the factory amp on the rear deck.
The Sub inputs and outputs, the remote turn on, and the power wires are all cut in the amp that's on the rear deck. I didn't touch the amp under the cd changer. So can I simply connect the remote turn on and the sub speaker wires to my aftermarket amp? Or did I need to keep the factory amp intact somehow? I don't need to run any power to it anymore, right? Sorry if my questions are real dumb. I'm just new to this stuff.
Thanks sooooo much!
Another question...Is there an easy way to test if my amp is working besides just hooking it up? I bought my amp on ebay used, and I just want to be sure that it works. It's a Pioneer amp.
The Sub inputs and outputs, the remote turn on, and the power wires are all cut in the amp that's on the rear deck. I didn't touch the amp under the cd changer. So can I simply connect the remote turn on and the sub speaker wires to my aftermarket amp? Or did I need to keep the factory amp intact somehow? I don't need to run any power to it anymore, right? Sorry if my questions are real dumb. I'm just new to this stuff.
Thanks sooooo much!
Another question...Is there an easy way to test if my amp is working besides just hooking it up? I bought my amp on ebay used, and I just want to be sure that it works. It's a Pioneer amp.
Last edited by howiedoit; 01-30-02 at 11:24 PM.
#14
yes, yes and yes
No biggie if you disconnect the factory amp. As a matter of fact, I sold the ones on ebay from my 300 coupe. It does not pass or filter any signals for the other amp so your ok.
To test the pioneer, you simply need a power source, input and speaker. I have a 12v supply on the bench, (most car chargers work also), connect any rca input and a junk speaker to see if you get output.
You can also just set everything in your trunk and run the wires to test without permanant install right away. glad to help.
To test the pioneer, you simply need a power source, input and speaker. I have a 12v supply on the bench, (most car chargers work also), connect any rca input and a junk speaker to see if you get output.
You can also just set everything in your trunk and run the wires to test without permanant install right away. glad to help.
#15
Use my diagram located here:
Lexus stereo Hackensack
If you use the Basic Stock Stereo diagram, the Sub connections are the same as for the Premium Sound. Nak is different. But from the pics I see you have the Pioneer.
You have power ran, use the ACC for remote turn on.
Splice into the line in, this is rca level input - low level frequency.
Hope it helps.
Lexus stereo Hackensack
If you use the Basic Stock Stereo diagram, the Sub connections are the same as for the Premium Sound. Nak is different. But from the pics I see you have the Pioneer.
You have power ran, use the ACC for remote turn on.
Splice into the line in, this is rca level input - low level frequency.
Hope it helps.