MadMaxSC400

Given all that I've seen with the turbo guys I know that I'm not going to see turbo-beating big power unless I put a C's stroker and blower on my car, and that would entail a lot of high-dollar work and having no car for a while. I'd like to take on an SC300 5 speed project car, and I wanted to know a couple things:

Can I get away with buying a well maintained high-mileage car (80-100k) without worrying that I'm building a disaster in the making?

ComputerWiz: you installed your turbo, how much time did it take? were there instructions that could be followed?

Lastly, what else will I need to build a stage 1.5 car (electronics, another fuel pump or injectors) and how much did all that add up to when all was said and done?

Thanks. Soon to be MadMaxSC400/SC300T

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can get away with a higher mileage car... in fact you'd be fine. Jeff's car has a lot of mileage on it if i remember right; and he's had the kit for 2 years and had no problems from the engine (we won't go into him exploding the transmission or clutch hehe)

To build a stage 1.5 car like SC300Ts; I'd get a Greddy Emanage. It can do additional injectors, program fuel like an AFC for bigger injectors, and control ignition timing... and its got programmable maps to do by laptop... you can even swap out your AFM for a MAF I believe... It costs around $400 and is a STEAL if you ask me...

You'll also need a better fuel pump... I hear the MKIII Supra Turbo's pump is good to around 450hp; then you'd need to rig p another aftermarket one. I plan on a 300zxTT pump for when I go big hp with the AEM ECU.

Bigger injectors can be had for cheap; I'm not sure what resistance a SC300 needs; but DSMs have 440cc injectors and you can find them for about $50 for a set of 4 in good shape... get two sets; then you have 2 additionals to use as well if you want... or RX-7 TurboII injectors would work. in 87 they had low resistance injectors, and 88-91 they had hgih resistance... so if the injector is of the same style; it would work.

Then there's always RC Engineering or someone that you can buy new injectors from; but I don't see the point for myself, since I'll have 440s on my car for a short amount of time. Then I plan on going to 720s with a big fuel system.

Lex Luthor

Bean, that sounded more like your plan than one for Max, hehe. Jeff's car has a bit over 120K if memory serves, still runs like a clock, matter of fact, it'll see more abuse after he upgrades the turbo. I've been patient waiting to see a fast 1UZ, but even Mo can't seem to get it going, and he's very well financed (other than Blast Racing, they ran 7.38 @ 184mph recently, setting a new Pro Import record, how do ya like them apples? I told you all it would happen). Anyway, i'm waiting until the end of '02, if there's still no quick 1UZ 'street' car, i'm giving up and building an SC3 turbo as well. Bean, I used to use Ford 24lb and 30lb injectors in my tuned port GM motors, i'll see if I can find out about the oe SC3 injectors. Max, stage 1.5 does not call for swapping the injectors, only a couple of 550cc Bosch or RC aux injectors, and you can run stock 10:1 CR @ stage 1.5 . Best as I can remember, the stage 1 turbo is a TO4E-60, you also get the Toyomoto cast iron manifold, external wastegate (i.e. Turbonetics Deltagate), Blow Off Valve (i.e. HKS Super Sequential), Supra TT sidemount intercooler, 3" downpipe, intercooler piping, intake piping, and gaskets. Stage 1.5 adds a little larger turbo, AIC (Haltech F5 or GReddy Rebic IV) with two additional injectors (i.e. 550cc), and a fuel pump. The MKIII turbo pump is a drop-in you just have to bend the sender a bit, or you can go with the MKIV TT pump, or dual TT pumps if need be, no reason at all to go through the trouble of using the pump for the VG30DETT, no offense Bean, you probably said that 'cause you have one lying around, am I right? Or do you just have a thing for that pump? And contrary to what everyone will tell you, you don't need the fuel computer to run the MKIV pump, just run 12V to the pump(s) with some heavy-gauge wiring, instead of the 9V from the computer, Clint will confirm this for you. The GReddy E-manage sounds great, can't wait 'till someone tries it here, but i'm hesitant to recommend it to anyone without some test time first. Stage 1.5 is easy twelves @ under 1bar, high 11's with a bit more boost and a good short time. Once you do the head gasket, a fuel system, and a couple bar, you'll swear you saw god at the 330ft mark.

MadMaxSC400

How much power would my current car need to be making to be "quick"?

SC300T

I just finished installing an MSD 6BTM ignition box... I'd consider it to be a must have now that I've done it.... Don't know how I got by without it. One simple **** to back off timing under boost. The simple dwell angle on the distributor is not enough retard and is not well suited cause you endup retarded for the 95 percent that you're not WOT. With the 6BTM, a simple twist of the **** is all that is needed to change between race gas, a 50/50 or even lower octane 87. (It even runs well with 87 at 12psi!). I can easily hit 15psi on 94 octane with no detonation and very smooth running. (The 6BTM is set very conservatively at a setting of 1 out of 3--- corresponds to around .8 degrees of retard per pound of boost, or 8 degrees under 10psi)

If you have a stage 1.5 car, you've got colder plugs that foul up and run slightly rough on occasion. The colder plugs resist detonation. The extra spark smooths out low rpm running and idle. The engine is also smoother under boost, with no hesitation at all. Seat of the pants tells me that retarding the timing around 8-10 degrees and running higher boost nets a few more ponies than advanced timing with less boost. A side benefit is that I can advance the dwell angle even more for better fuel economy.

At idle the engine note has changed to more of a purr...

If you're running a stock SC300, the only benefit may be slightly smoother running, I doubt there are many ponies in this mod for a normally aspirated engine.

After several hours of fuss, three calls to MSD and three days later, I finally got it running. The standard diagrams are completely off. I can help with the wiring if anyone is interested.

Parts needed:
MSD 6BTM box
8910 EIS tach adapter. (you need the EIS version -- there are several 8910 versions)

Simplified wiring:
6BTM box:
heavy black--- ground
black--- goes to coil negative wire (blue white)
orange --- goes to coil positive (orange / black)
red--- switched +12v source
heavy red --- batt
(note: break original 2 connections from coil to car wiring.)

8910EIS tach adapter:
green/blue harness attached to blue/green connection on 6BTM
red--- switched +12v source
black ---- to white/blue connector on igniter on opposite side of engine

Any questions, feel free to ask.

SCV8

Max,been watching"The Fast&The Furious" again?
Yeah,there's some wicked power available from those turbo motors.

Lex Luthor

Scott, glad to see you got the BTM installed. How does it feel at 15lbs? So, you're using the first increment of adjustment? That's great, leaves lots more room for additional retard, I think it's 15deg total max, right? 12psi on 87 octane, that's wild, good stuff. You have all that cold air right now, i'm sure you won't try that in the summer. Between you, Jeff, Ethan, Brian, and Steven, there should be some real nice timeslips floatin' around here this year, lookin' forward to joining you in '03. Thx for posting the colours, i've already printed it out for reference. Max, quick is a relative term, depends on how fast of a car you came up with, I guess. There's some kids around here running LS-motor Civics, turning 14's, that think they're real quick. IMO, to be quick you'd have to be under 2sec on your short time on a street tire or at least a DOT. Trap speed would have to be at least in the teens, doesn't matter what car it is, anything that will hit you like a linebacker when you hit 2nd is a quick car in my book. Now fast, that's a whole nuther story brother.....

MadMaxSC400

I want the power primarily for my own fun to be had.. I'm not much of a street racer. I simply enjoy power and speed... autocrossing is a blast, drift driving in the hills, ignoring the speedometer on Interstate 5 and looking down ten minutes later when I hit the rev limiter in overdrive. However, words like "violent acceleration" and "excessive rear tire wear" get me just as excited. I don't live my life a quarter mile at a time, I live it every day, every mile. If I lived in the 1800's I'd be a horse breeder, or a train engineer with shots of Nitro-Glycerin for extra power

SC300T

Max----"drift driving in the hills"-----That could be troublesome with a T60.

Its the understeer-----------holy **** oversteer syndrome that turbo spooling does. I'm still afraid of it... On ramps, anything over 20% throttle has the tail out in a 911 style power slide. I'm not sure if its controllable and too chicken to find out. To be honest, you have to have huge cajones to drive curves at the limit in something like this... I suppose with a low psi spring and good boost control you could dial out the 3500 rpm spool to the point where its progressive, but then you lose the ability to pull next to the guy in the other lane and do a rolling burnout by just squeezing the pedal a bit.

Lex---
"How does it feel at 15lbs? So, you're using the first increment of adjustment? That's great, leaves lots more room for additional retard, I think it's 15deg total max, right? 12psi on 87 octane, that's wild, good stuff."

So far, so good. The adjustment range is 0-3 degrees per pound of boost, with a max total retard of 20 degrees. Just a guess, but 22psi and race gas would probably take around 8-12 degrees of retard total. I ran 18psi with a little detonation with 5 degrees of retard on 116 octane. The neat thing is that its continuously variable with a simple convenient ****. Hear a tinkle, dial it back a smidgen. I'd guess around 525-575rwhp on this setting as it makes loads more power than the simple 12psi pump gas setting which yielded 423rwhp.

MadMaxSC400

look at this lunatic, lol... putting a turbo on a slant six Dodge Dart

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/tur...bo-article.htm

Camshaft

So, total with turbo kit, electronics, Supra rear end, good beefy set of tires after the initial burnout, and a ******** enlargment, you are looking at $10k, right?

Bean

iTrader: (1)

well if you take off the ******** enlargement and do the install yourself; you can come away with $8k or so I believe

I'll come away much cheaper than that; but its because I'm not getting the AIC or the additionals to go with it.

I can pretty much drive my Lex at the limits; power induced oversteer is still a bit tough to get going unless you're in a hard turn. But when I get the turbo; I plan on either just mild suspension upgrades or a full coilover setup... when I get the LSD; I'll take you guys for a ride at NOPI next year

CmputerWiz

It's relatively controllable. I've got Kumho tires on the back, which aren't as "grippy" as I would like. It's waaaay too easy to break the rear tires out, but you can keep it in line. Take your car out to a bog walmart parking lot or the such on a sunday night, and practice the drifts. That worked for me!

But ya, I remember the first time I hopped on the interstate, and on the ramp the back end swung around. Man...I drove sooooo slow the rest of the way home. lol

SR

Bean

iTrader: (1)

haha, I did that once in my 300zx... came off the turn HARD and then punched it; and the rear end kicked out


my friends said it looked fricken awsome but it scared the **** outta me!!!

Lex Luthor

Yeah, Scott, those rolling burnouts are very intimidating to the guy in the other lane, I used to downshift and hit the button and incinerate the tyres. Oversteer is the reason I drive a rear-drive car, IMO it's muuch better than understeer, and god forbid, TORQUE-STEER! My friend's Si changes lanes when you shift it, it's just rediculous. I luv hangin' the @ss out around an exit ramp, feel like I can keep it there forever, but then again, I don't have nearly enough power in this car to be intimidated by it, that would take about four times what it's putting to the rear wheels now, hehe.