I am getting a new set of rotor for my sc400. I wanted them to be cross drilled and slotted, but the guy said that if i want performance then i should just go with cross drilled, cause it suppose to dissipate heat better up to 600 F. For the slotted rotors, he said those are mainly for track racing(where the rotor became more effective above 500F range) and that the rotor will eat off the pad quicker. He said if i put the two combination together, pretty much the performance would be cancel out...and left nothing but nice appearance. Does anyone have a different thinking?. BTW, i got my rotors for $430 all around.(OEM size)

 

That guy is a goober. Your pad/fliud selection will affect your braking performance about 50x more than cross-drilling or slotting could ever hope to do. But it sure looks neato!!

 

Unless your on the track more than on the road, just a set of performance bads are all you need.


I have heard that doing both is pointless, but as far as loss of performance.....if the rotors are fully slotted AND fully drilled, common sence would say, yes, you'd loose function. Each type has a specific application, and you normaly do one or the other. Doing both just makes you look like an uneducated ricer who wants to look cool.

Drop your money into a big brake upgrade, as opposed to see thru, swiss cheese, wannabe rotors that will just crack on you.

If you don't have at least a 4 piston caliper, then the rotor, by itself, is ineffective and the stock rotor will give the best streetable performance.

For quick performance I always recommend SS brake lines. They give noticable improvement immediately either on or off the track.

 

If you often drive in the rain then slotted rotors will help channel and "sling" the moisture from the rotor surfaces. Cross drilling allows the "gas" from heat build up to escape from between the rotors and pads and thus allow better braking overall.

Go for slotted rotors if rain is a problem and only to cross drilled if really severe braking need is common.

 

Keith, do u have any recommenation for the brand of the pads? and do they wear out faster than stock's? and lastly, can i just upgrade the rear pads but not the front ones (still have much left)?

thx

 

Maybe it's just me, but I've always grown up under the idea that slotted and cross-drilled rotors are all gimmick. People will say what it sounds like a slotted/x-drilled rotor should do, but a regular disk does the job just as well if not better in everyday driving conditions. Take a look at all the F1 race cars too... Big, big solid rotors, fat calipers, and no fancy-shmancy hole patterns. If performance is all you want, go large on everything---pads, rotors, calipers. If you like the looks (and I personally do) buy some slotted or cross-drilled rotors. If I'm wrong and there's some magic behind the slots, then correct me.

 

Slotted and drilled rotors used to be fairly effective because the binders in the brake pad would heat up at high temperatures and "outgas", creating a layer of gas/vapor between the pad and the rotor. This would be "hydroplaning", but for brake pads. The holes and slots helped to get rid of the gas and prevent the "hydroplaning" of the surfaces.

Most brake pads these days have much lower levels of organic binder that causes this gassing, with many performance pads having none at all. Therefore, eliminating the need for drilling or slotting. Also, these can weaken the rotor as well, providing a start for cracks.

For a rotor surface to be most effective, you actually would like it to be as big and SOLID as possible, as this will help prevent warping as well. The beefier it is, the more mass it has, the better it will be at absorbing these peak levels of heat without warping. For cooling purposes, you would want quality, well designed, curved vanes to vent the rotors. Many cheaper rotors (and expensive ones) have straight vanes, which are much less effective at cooling the rotor.

But, yeah, cross drilling and slotting looks cool. Just ask Stillen.

 

Wow! I guess Brembo, AP Racing, Porsche, Ferrari, among others, must know nothing about brakes!

While I agree that just taking some bullshiat rotors and having them cross drilled and slotted doesn't really do a whole lot, when you upgrade to a complete system (designed for higher performance), things change...

 

AP Racing and Porshe rotors are bigger circumference size and surface area There is a company that specializes in upgrading almost any vehicle with Porshe brakes but, if you look at the results depending on the vehicle. Sometimes it helps and sometimes not. As for the Brembo and Ferrari brake rotors unless, the size is bigger then it is more looks than anything else. However, if you have a big wallet that is a whole different story. Brembo makes rotors in the stock size as well as rotor upgrades in sizes. Depending on what you choose.

I just don't like turning the cross drilled rotors. It is such a pain.

 

Where the hell does this comment come from?

Have you noticed the size comaprison betrween stock sized drilled/slotted and the performance brakes!!!!! Several inch increase to compensate for all the holes in the rotor.........several more pistons to keep the pad steady and even on the rotor, and MUCH better pads that grip the rotor. You get what you pay for. A good brake upgrade will run in the thousands! And even then, just driving on the street, you won't notice THAT much of an improvement to constitute the cost. The professional upgrades are for the guys running on the track (as welll as the street).

 

Again, these attributes are for little more than just looks....


What, the LOOKS of something can sell a product ??? What a novel concept!!! Boy, I wish they taught that in all my marketing classes!!!

Do your research before you spout off, slick.

And do yourself a favor and educate yourself about the facts of how brakes really work.

 

Here you go boys. Maybe he's educated himself a little bit.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ghlight=brembo

 

I got mine off ebay, brand new for $295 all around. Check there first. As for performance, I can't feel the difference. I had new pads and shims put on at the same time. I think it will help you stop after long driving times, but for city driving, you won't notice a difference. I don't know much about brakes, but the cross-drilled slotted rotors are supposed to keep cooler than normal rotors, therefore helping you stop after longer driving times.. Please correct me, I know I shouldn't reply if I don't know what I am talking about Anyways, they look awesome!!

 

I too have just installed both front and rear cross drilled and slotted rotors on my SC400. After about 400 miles, I consider the new pads to be "bedded" well. I am using EBC green stuff carbon kevlar pads.

So, now for the perception of these new rotors. The stopping performance at normal driving scenarios is slightly better than my Lexus OEM pads. The stopping performance in a strong stand on the pedal 70 MPH to 0 is in my opinion enhanced. This is hard to quantify but the car just stops real well and with authority. My old pads were squealing when cold, and the new ones do not.

In the area of Looks, my new rotors are also nickle plated. At this time of year they are well hidden behind my OEM 16" multi-spoked Lexus rims that have snow tires on them. However, in the Springtime, when the new SSR GT-3 rims are mounted, their 5 spoke open design will really allow the new rotors to be visible both at speed and especially at rest.

So, in my typical driving style, the visual benefits (my opinion as well as others) and marginal performance enhancements make the slotted and drilled rotors a very valid and viable bolt on upgrade or retrofit.

My old OEM, discolored, scored and mildy rusted rotors, would, beyond a doubt, look less than attractive with the new open wheels. Soon, I will be adding the woven Stainless Steel brake lines to each caliper, which may add additional positive feedback to the braking system.

I do hope this input is valuable to you. To my mind, as a non track racer, the debate, which preceeded this post which revolved on the topic of slotted vs drilled etc is not relevant to me. They look good, do not dust up the wheels with brake dust and stop as well or better than the OEM rotors and pads that I had on.

 

Most of the OEM (Porsche etc) use rotors with cast holes, never drilled holes. Drilling holes in brake rotors not designed for them will weaken them dramatically, and only serve to reduce the braking surface, and extend braking distances. Drilling rotors should be reserved for poseurs only. Slotted rotors are another story.