redsc400

My symptoms: the window does not go up or down and no noise comes from the regulator when the switch is toggled.

What I've tried: Installed a new window regulator... didnt work. Tried applying 12V power to both regulators and they BOTH work fine!

What do I do to fix my window problem???

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

1- check the window free travel with the regulator removed.

2- find the relay and check it

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

or check fuses?

Mtinez_IS3

iTrader: (1)

its your main switch.

desol11

i have that same prob with mine. you say the main switch could you elaborate more ?

Mtinez_IS3

iTrader: (1)

alright. so just run power directly to the motor with a 12V like the previous guy and see if it will work. if your cable on the regulator is broken then Thats a different story. but if your NOT getting power thru just your switch and you ARE getting it when your running it directly, it will most likely be your switch.

sorry if i don't make sense im on my cell, but I've never heard of it being a fuse. i may be wrong but thru out my time working at a glass shop I've never seen that.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

I thought he said noise comes from the regulator rather than NO noise. I misread, skip #1 and go directly to #2. #3 is the main switch #4 is the wiring in the door near the pass through loom.

redsc400

could you elaborate on the main switch? its location / what it looks like? my mechanic thinks its the wiring harness that runs thru the door hinge in that rubber conduit.

Mtinez_IS3

iTrader: (1)

im not familiar with your car but its where you roll your window up and down. it should be on your door panel. and it should just have clips to come off. you take it off and unplug it and plug the new one in. no mechanic needed. gl

redsc400

are you referring to the switch you toggle to raise and lower the windows?

Mtinez_IS3

iTrader: (1)

yup thats it....

TLDriver

iTrader: (4)

To test the switch pull it out and connect a voltmeter (continuity tester) and it should complete the circuit once you press on the switch or pull it. If you have the door apart connect the voltmeter to the harness where it’s connecting to regulator and it should give you 12volt or -12 volts when the switch is up or down. You can also test to see if the cables between the door and the cabin are ok with the continuity tester. It will take some time but all the cables should be near the kick panel just match the colors and test them. Make sure to have some good lighting some of the colors are similar alligator clips might be helpful if you are doing it by yourself. Good luck.

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

Same thing happened to me. The driver's side makes a buzzing noise, and the passenger side doens't make any noise. I got quoted ~600 per door for motors and regulators, and 280 for labor.

redsc400

after a little playing around in the garage yesterday i was able to position the wiring harness that runs through the door conduit in a way that allowed my window to actually work! therefore the main switch is not the issue. a new wiring harness is on its way thanks to Gazi, we'll see how effective it is at solving my problem.