Some strange electrical problems
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Some strange electrical problems
I did some searching, but wasn't very sure about what search words to use.
Also, mods, if this is in the wrong place please move it. I apologize in advance.
Okay, onwards. So I was driving today and all of a sudden the windshield wipers went off once. I saw that the battery light was on and started to pull over. The gauges and radio turned off and on a couple times. I turned the car off and tested the battery voltage and continuity of some of the grounds. They all seemed fine. Then I tried to start the car to check the alternator voltage, but the starter wouldn't even turn. The radio won't turn on, the gauges don't work, the moonroof won't move, the AC won't work, the windows don't work, and once I push started it the power steering seemed really weak. Strangely enough, the dome lights still work.
I checked the fuses and they seem okay, though the ones in the kick panel are damn hard to see. I'm not sure the alt has issues because I recently had it rebuilt, but I checked the voltage after push starting it and it was down at 12v.
What the heck is going on?! Thanks in advance everyone.
Also, mods, if this is in the wrong place please move it. I apologize in advance.
Okay, onwards. So I was driving today and all of a sudden the windshield wipers went off once. I saw that the battery light was on and started to pull over. The gauges and radio turned off and on a couple times. I turned the car off and tested the battery voltage and continuity of some of the grounds. They all seemed fine. Then I tried to start the car to check the alternator voltage, but the starter wouldn't even turn. The radio won't turn on, the gauges don't work, the moonroof won't move, the AC won't work, the windows don't work, and once I push started it the power steering seemed really weak. Strangely enough, the dome lights still work.
I checked the fuses and they seem okay, though the ones in the kick panel are damn hard to see. I'm not sure the alt has issues because I recently had it rebuilt, but I checked the voltage after push starting it and it was down at 12v.
What the heck is going on?! Thanks in advance everyone.
#4
I just discovered that there are wires that are runing inside the engine bay along firewire they are attached to engine but also go inside on driver side seems that some of the wires are responsible for locking and unlocking doors cluster and etc. You want to look at them.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
One question that's been on my mind today before I start replying to the quotes below: Why would the power steering be weak in this scenario? I know it's speed sensitive instead of RPM sensitive... but would these electrical problems still affect it?
About 6 or 8 weeks ago I replaced my factory audio deck with an aftermarket one and ran new wires to the speakers (bypassing the factory amp). At that time I also removed the CD changer and factory amp.
About 2 or 3 weeks ago I re-ran a new positive cable back to my sub in the trunk and replaced the ground that was back there. I was careful not to damage any wiring when pulling out the old cable and putting in the new one (the new one was a larger gauge so I had to cut a hole in a grommet).
Couple days after all that I replaced my power steering pump with a new one from Carson Toyota.
I know, that's why I mentioned it being down at 12v when it was running. I have an Optima yellow top battery that's only about 16 months old, so I don't think there are any problems with the battery. The alt was rebuilt about a year ago to 20 amps above factory (resulting in 120 amps).
Is there any way to check the output on the alt before it hits the battery? I usually just check the voltage on the battery while the car is running to make sure the alt is doing its job, but obviously this problem is deep.
Thanks again everyone, will check back in a bit.
About 2 or 3 weeks ago I re-ran a new positive cable back to my sub in the trunk and replaced the ground that was back there. I was careful not to damage any wiring when pulling out the old cable and putting in the new one (the new one was a larger gauge so I had to cut a hole in a grommet).
Couple days after all that I replaced my power steering pump with a new one from Carson Toyota.
Is there any way to check the output on the alt before it hits the battery? I usually just check the voltage on the battery while the car is running to make sure the alt is doing its job, but obviously this problem is deep.
Thanks again everyone, will check back in a bit.
#7
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#8
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Don't know if this is any help, but I was driving a few weeks ago and had a seal go on the power steering pump. This is located right above the alternator. The fluid poured into the alternator, destroying it. You may want to check that power steering level.
PS: Anytime that I turned the wheel, the red battery light would come on...
PS: Anytime that I turned the wheel, the red battery light would come on...
#9
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check the harness that runs over the fender well to the inside fuse box if your car is lowered then u might have some shortage problems due to harness rubbing against something
#12
Don't know if this is any help, but I was driving a few weeks ago and had a seal go on the power steering pump. This is located right above the alternator. The fluid poured into the alternator, destroying it. You may want to check that power steering level.
PS: Anytime that I turned the wheel, the red battery light would come on...
PS: Anytime that I turned the wheel, the red battery light would come on...
Good luck.
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
Fixed it, thanks for the help everyone.
About 6 months back my water pump blew out (it sprayed coolant all over the inside of the bay!) I attempted to change it out myself, but just could not get the crank bolt off with a barrage of typical shade-tree mechanic tools and tactics. Coincidentally, the 120 amp fuse also went out at that time.
I tried pulling stuff out of the fuse box to replace it, but decided that since I was going to send the car off the mechanic anyway I might as well just have him fix it. So he replaced the fuse and pump and a few other things, but apparently didn't reconnect some of the eye terminals in the fuse box! They were just touching this copper plate type of thing in the fuse box, making a poor connection all this time! Ridiculous!
Since this was so long ago and I managed to get the car home without towing it I'm not going to call and ***** him out, but that was definitely a dumb mistake on his part. I'm just grateful it wasn't anything more serious.
About 6 months back my water pump blew out (it sprayed coolant all over the inside of the bay!) I attempted to change it out myself, but just could not get the crank bolt off with a barrage of typical shade-tree mechanic tools and tactics. Coincidentally, the 120 amp fuse also went out at that time.
I tried pulling stuff out of the fuse box to replace it, but decided that since I was going to send the car off the mechanic anyway I might as well just have him fix it. So he replaced the fuse and pump and a few other things, but apparently didn't reconnect some of the eye terminals in the fuse box! They were just touching this copper plate type of thing in the fuse box, making a poor connection all this time! Ridiculous!
Since this was so long ago and I managed to get the car home without towing it I'm not going to call and ***** him out, but that was definitely a dumb mistake on his part. I'm just grateful it wasn't anything more serious.