lexcoupe94

I removed the stock subwoofer and cut away the four magnet basket arms with a Dremel cutoff wheel, then cut away the cone with a knife, leaving the top ring with the bolt and top cover brackets. The problem is the new sub (Pioneer free air) doesn't fit flush because the "ring" is too small for the woofer basket. Even if I were to fabricate some kind of L-brackets to attach the sub to the ring, the subwoofer cover doesn't fit over the sub. Those of you who have replaced the stock subwoofer with a new one in the same location, how did you bolt it in? And how did you deal with the cover situation? Thanks for any help.
P.S. FYI, the stock subwoofer is 5 ohm. Kinda strange number, I always thought they were 2 ohm. The new sub is 4 ohm and definitely plays louder, not sure how much of that is due to less ohm resistance.

Ali SC4

Ran into the same problem of how to reattach the speaker cover after my factory sub was removed to improve airflow for the new sub in the trunk. Ended up having to attach the cover to the deck using heavy duty two way adhesive tape around the edge of the cover. Cant be seen from the outside and its held perfectly so far.

Lex Luthor

My JL 10IB4 dropped right into the hollowed-out oe sub, and the cover fit on perfectly.

lexcoupe94

Yeah, guess I'll just have to get a JBL sub. Hate to ditch the Pioneer though. I half-assed rigged it up in the car to see how it would sound & it really bumped nice, especially with the new amp. Oh well, hopefully the JBL will hit as hard.

lexcoupe94

Duh...I mean JL sub. Thanks Lex for the tip.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Installed the Pioneer free-air in my back deck with no problem. Took the stock 10 out and removed the four screws under the top trim ring. I then tore off the top trim ring of the old 10 and removed it from the metal ring. The new Pioneer went in and then used the four existing holes to screw into the plastic trim underneath the metal trim ring. Once secured, I took black duct tape around the edge of the new Pioneer and down arond the plastic to help seal. Worked great. Hope all that made since.

Shane

slowtan

How hard does your free air subs really hit. I am going to have 125 RMS pushing whatever sub I get but the problem is what to get. I have a stereo shop tell me that they can build a hanging enclosure for a JL 10W3 for $250. $250 + 125 (sub) = $375 ouch

OR

I can drop a Kicker free air 10" in there. I have MB Quart 6.5 component on the front and 6.5" 2Way MB Quart on the rear deck so I want a good clean but deep sub.

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

my 10" free air Pioneer sub fit perfectly as well...

abutler696

I dropped in a JL10W0 where the stock sub used to be and it sounds awesome...just made a little custom ring bracket so they gas tank didn't get in the way of the magnet.

lexcoupe94

Figured it out finally. The plastic ring on top of the stock subwoofer mount was about 1/8" smaller than the diameter of the subwoofer. I popped the ring off the metal base and stuck the plastic ring in the oven to soften it up, then put it back on the metal part and forced the subwoofer back on, then screwed the whole thing back together. I removed the plastic ribs on the underside of the subwoofer cover with pliers, and popped it back on. Worked like a charm & retains the stock look. I've got a Crunch 350W amp hooked up to the outputs of the stock amp through the high-level inputs, and the bass is bumping nice. Thanks to all for your responses.

lexcoupe94

By the way, my rear speakers just quit working, like a lot of SC owners. Took them out while I was working on the sub & they are aged and cracked. I'm gonna drop some 6.5 speakers in there, and then replace the fronts with 6.5's as well.