My new minty fresh 5spd SC300 52k
07-11-09, 11:26 PM
#76
Been working hard and spending money 
Did some interior detailing and finally replaced the trunk struts. I say finally because my last SC had blown struts but I never really cared enough to drop the $20 and spend 20min replacing them...
My stock stereo has been blown in this car since I bought it... The new stereo system has been coming in bits and pieces via snail mail for the past week and it is all finally here. Robbie2883 will be doing the install some time this week.
Also I got these tails brand new from Lexus
Next on the horizon is exhaust, bigger brakes, some tranny work, then boost.
Did some interior detailing and finally replaced the trunk struts. I say finally because my last SC had blown struts but I never really cared enough to drop the $20 and spend 20min replacing them...My stock stereo has been blown in this car since I bought it... The new stereo system has been coming in bits and pieces via snail mail for the past week and it is all finally here. Robbie2883 will be doing the install some time this week.
Also I got these tails brand new from Lexus
Next on the horizon is exhaust, bigger brakes, some tranny work, then boost.
09-07-09, 10:42 PM
#77
I decided to go a different route than I had originally planned with regards to my exhaust. I bought and installed an electric cutout and I LOVE it! It is as quiet as stock when closed, but when I open it WOW it grumbles and roars. It's been a lot of fun playing with this thing. I'll post pics and a sound vid soon.
Got it here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTP-QTEC30/
Got it here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/QTP-QTEC30/
09-08-09, 01:02 PM
#80
They were $350 for the pair plus tax and shipping from Lexus of Pembroke Pines. Got the hyper-blink fixed today. My buddy wired 2 of the bulbs from the old harnesses into each side and they work perfectly now.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...82&catalogid=0
09-08-09, 02:34 PM
#81
My center cat was cracked so they took it off and welded the cutout and y-pipe in its place. I'll get a pic soon.
They were $350 for the pair plus tax and shipping from Lexus of Pembroke Pines. Got the hyper-blink fixed today. My buddy wired 2 of the bulbs from the old harnesses into each side and they work perfectly now.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...82&catalogid=0
They were $350 for the pair plus tax and shipping from Lexus of Pembroke Pines. Got the hyper-blink fixed today. My buddy wired 2 of the bulbs from the old harnesses into each side and they work perfectly now.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...82&catalogid=0
And can you please post a good pic of what wires were matted to get rid of the hyperblink.
09-11-09, 10:58 AM
#82
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...blink-fix.html
Here's a pic of the cutout installed.
09-12-09, 07:25 PM
#87
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All that stuff makes me sad... I want to think that there is an SC sitting in a garage that has under 10k miles that's exactly like the day it was built: Perfect....
Here is the thing.... lets say there is..... Would you mod it or leave it stock? I say stock for some reason...
Here is the thing.... lets say there is..... Would you mod it or leave it stock? I say stock for some reason...
Sorry for the late reply.
Low mileage older cars can give owners fits with problems that don't usually arise. I recommend sea-foaming your car a few times over the next month or so as it no-doubt has a higher than normal amount of carbon build up. Premature bearing failure is also common in these cars, and it's caused by the car only being driven for short trips, and rarely getting up to proper operating temp. What happens is you'll actually get condensation inside the engine that builds up into a white/yellow goo, very similar to what happens with a blown headgasket. Another problem caused by those short distance, and infrequent trips are excessive cylender wall wear...you can expect the ridge to be alot larger then in a daily driven car, and is something you want to watch out for if you start pushing that motor harder than what its used to...the higher the rpms you take it, the higher that pistons gonna go (the difference is miniscule, but when rings meet ridge's at high rpms bad things can happen.)
Other issues:
Transmission problems galore....you name it, i've seen it at my shop. I recommend servicing the tranny right away and adding a can of Seafoam's trans-tune when you refill it.
Brakes: The rubber brake lines going to the wheels will deteriorate on the inside, and cause the the calipers to lock down (acts like a one-way check valve.....lets the fluid go through, then blocks it from being able to return to the MC) something to watch out for. Also brake-booster diaphragm failure from dry-rot. and of course BMC seal failure at the booster.
Kept an eye out for leaking seals on valve covers, front and rear mains, and the oil pan gasket.
Watch for signs of the radiator ballooning (esp on really hot days)
Check the tires for dry rot
and if the struts are good, dont expect them too stay that way for long if you start putting some miles on it freqently.
Not trying to discourage you with your new ride, just wanted to give you a heads up on what most people dont think about when they find a low mileage "gem".
-G
Low mileage older cars can give owners fits with problems that don't usually arise. I recommend sea-foaming your car a few times over the next month or so as it no-doubt has a higher than normal amount of carbon build up. Premature bearing failure is also common in these cars, and it's caused by the car only being driven for short trips, and rarely getting up to proper operating temp. What happens is you'll actually get condensation inside the engine that builds up into a white/yellow goo, very similar to what happens with a blown headgasket. Another problem caused by those short distance, and infrequent trips are excessive cylender wall wear...you can expect the ridge to be alot larger then in a daily driven car, and is something you want to watch out for if you start pushing that motor harder than what its used to...the higher the rpms you take it, the higher that pistons gonna go (the difference is miniscule, but when rings meet ridge's at high rpms bad things can happen.)
Other issues:
Transmission problems galore....you name it, i've seen it at my shop. I recommend servicing the tranny right away and adding a can of Seafoam's trans-tune when you refill it.
Brakes: The rubber brake lines going to the wheels will deteriorate on the inside, and cause the the calipers to lock down (acts like a one-way check valve.....lets the fluid go through, then blocks it from being able to return to the MC) something to watch out for. Also brake-booster diaphragm failure from dry-rot. and of course BMC seal failure at the booster.
Kept an eye out for leaking seals on valve covers, front and rear mains, and the oil pan gasket.
Watch for signs of the radiator ballooning (esp on really hot days)
Check the tires for dry rot
and if the struts are good, dont expect them too stay that way for long if you start putting some miles on it freqently.
Not trying to discourage you with your new ride, just wanted to give you a heads up on what most people dont think about when they find a low mileage "gem".
-G
09-12-09, 08:51 PM
#88
Right now, nothing besides make a lot of noise when it's open When it's open, the exhaust exits the car before reaching the mufflers or resonators. I'll post a video here soon.
I know there are a few super low mileage SCs in southern FL. Depending on how low it is, I'd probably leave it stock.
When it's open, the exhaust exits the car before reaching the mufflers or resonators. I'll post a video here soon.All that stuff makes me sad... I want to think that there is an SC sitting in a garage that has under 10k miles that's exactly like the day it was built: Perfect....
Here is the thing.... lets say there is..... Would you mod it or leave it stock? I say stock for some reason...
Here is the thing.... lets say there is..... Would you mod it or leave it stock? I say stock for some reason...
10-05-09, 06:00 PM
#89
Took a quick picture of where I stuck the cutout switch. No cutting or drilling was required. I pulled out the center console trim, pulled out the sliding ash tray, unscrewed and removed the little metal bracket in back of the trim that is used to hold in the ash tray. Then I stick the switch in where the metal bracket used to be and added a washer to keep it from falling out! Works like a charm and is easily removable/replaceable.
Dash kit is still in the mail...
Up next is installing my LS400 BBK. Bought the calipers from Aliga and the rotors and SS brakes lines from iRotors.com I'm not going to paint or rebuild them, just a good sanding and they shined right up!
Dash kit is still in the mail...
Up next is installing my LS400 BBK. Bought the calipers from Aliga and the rotors and SS brakes lines from iRotors.com I'm not going to paint or rebuild them, just a good sanding and they shined right up!