well here they are. sorry for the crappy pics. took them with my phone. they look awsome in the daylight, but at night they are way to freakin bright. im going to have to figure something out for that. other than they they work awsome. here are some pics. i also figured out how to fix the speedo that sits below 0mph, if any of yours do.
they look blue in the pics. but they are actually super white








mid day shot

 

for the blow 0mph fix, just push the needle way past 160mph untill you feel it stop, push harder and then let go and let it 0 out and set it to 0mph

 

Gauges look good, but way too bright without a dimmer so I never used that setup.

Regarding the twist it past 160 method, very (and I mean very) very very bad idea to twist the bump stop on the motor gauge that far around. The needle doesn't sit at zero because the motor is off, it usually sits there because the needle is off. On some rare occasion the motor is off, less than 10% of the time. You twist the bump stop on the motor around like that and when you turn your key, the needle is going to jump to 15-20 mph at rest and start going from there as you drive rather than zero. You are physically displacing the rotating disk, bump stop, and motor center guide by twisting the bump stops around like that. If you get really really lucky, the bump stop won't twist and you will actually be only moving the needle itself on the contact like you should be doing in the first place. This is an FYI to all, don't twist your bump stops past 160mph. You'll twist the spring and bump stops into an irreversible pretzel. Every now and again someone gets lucky and their gauge motor still works.

 

Cliff notes: if your gauge still sits at zero with the key on and behaves correctly, you didn't twist the motor, your contacts on the needle moved instead (and thank your lucky stars, most needles have strong enough contacts to move the motor center guide rather than give like these did). In this case it was like just keeping the motor still and moving the needle. Very lucky. Twisting the bump stops on the motor past the stopping point of 160 would have been bad mojo. Again, most contacts have a good enough grip to hold while the motor twists instead.

 

the halo's look awesome in the cluster.. so there's no way to hook up the dimmer?

 

Thats sweet i need to do this. How much that cost you?

 

Intresting.....

 

They look good! A little too bright for me. I think I would get temporary night blindness without the ability to dim at night.

 

i think if you take the front part of the cluster (the plastic cover shield thing) to a tint shop and throw on like a 15% tint I think it should solve you ultra bright problem looks sweet though

 

That's a pretty cool idea. So you couldn't hook it up with the dimmer?

 

hook them up to the gauge pos and neg and you should be able to control them from the rheostat.

 

im going to try and hook up to the dimmer, instead of constant. i have another set left over. because you get the 3/4 cirle ones like i have and it also comes with full circle halo's. yes they are way to bright at night and i will figure soemthing out and let you guys know. i just need to mess with the other set that i have. they are freakin awsome in the day time. but to bright at night. only cost about 50 dollars. so it isnt bad. as for tuning past 160. the reason that it gets below zero is when you have the cluster of you can accidently put it past 0mph, so the method i did, worked perfectly fine. needle doesnt jump or anything. maybe i got lucky. who knows. the tach does the same thing if you are not carful

 

looks good...........

 

well i pulled the cluster back out. instead of wiring them 12v constant. i soldering the power and ground into the cluster lights. now i can dim and turn them off.

 

so the dim button work like stock now ?